Rust Repair... good tutorials?

Discussion in 'Paint / Body / Detailing' started by JeezLouiseGMC, Dec 21, 2018.

  1. 16Raptor

    16Raptor Truckin'

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    Seven Canadian winters and they still look like OEM original cab corners that have never bin replaced and your telling me I didn't do them right. These trucks cab corners typled rusted out within five year's from factory so I must of done something right.
     
  2. 16Raptor

    16Raptor Truckin'

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    He hasn't moved yet he's still in Texas. He's working on moving but hasn't moved yet plus if you have bin watching him as long as me you'd know he's bin wanting to move to Utah for year's. And if he's trying to hide why's he showing his nice new shop and telling everyone were it is just saying
     
  3. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    Some of the aftermarket replacement rockers are sized bigger to be slipped over what's there. Usually not of very thick material. None of the aftermarket ones really are of the proper material. The rocker is considered a structural component on these trucks. It's not your typical stamped 16-18g. If you could still order one from Gm you would get the whole door opening, rocker to roof rail, A and B pillars in one piece and the proper repair procedure is to section it in between the upper and lower hinge on the front with a good portion of the lock pillar in the rear. Basically put the bottom half in. You would also need a full cab corner to do it this way. The floor is tin and the inner rocker is tin. The rocker is the only thick piece of metal between the A and B posts. Not to say it can't be done other ways. Even at a GM bodyshop they let us cheat that and keep it a little lower in the rear
     
  4. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    LOL I wasn"t talking about your truck I was referencing DIY auto school. If I misquoted some thing I'll see if I can correct it.
     
  5. 16Raptor

    16Raptor Truckin'

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    I don't know what your deal is with Pete I'm good friends with him he does does good work .I worked at a body shop in highschool for work experience and all they would work on is insurance jobs and it was a hack shop they used the cheap bullshit Bondo shit paint and primes. Pete definitely does alot better quality work then that socall professional shop I did my work experience in. I'd trust Pete to paint my 98.
     
  6. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    I've watched quite a few of them. I also find the guy entertaining. Typical bodyman attitude. Talk crap and rip on each other all day long and nobody goes home bent.

    Some of his information is good and some is just misinformation. He's doing bodywork like it was 30 years ago. Products and methods have changed since then. Those of us that do it for a living and/or working in collision shops are kept up to date

    A couple I can recommend. Watch the one on All-Metal filler where he starts with an old dried out can of the stuff that's been left open for how long and slams the product because he couldn't get it mixed correctly. All Metal is actually pretty good stuff but I wouldn't use it everywhere on everything. Watch the one where he turns the can of Dyna-lite around. You'll notice that alot. He turns products around often. No, it has nothing to do with advertising. He's using the lowest grade cheapest products. Watch the one where he suggests any reducer is good reducer. No again, cheap shit reducer can cause dieback and other issues such as peel or solvent pop. It's not where you want to save the $10 that's going to ruin the job or create 3 days worth of buffing. You don't want to be using synthetic enamel grade reducer or the like in urethane products. He's mentioned in several videos he has clear die back issues and has to buff everything. Watch the clearcoat comparison where he slams all of them and doesn't even include the 2nd tier product he uses. Who's to say he used the right reducer if and when he used any of them. Uv inhibitors are what makes the clear more yellow. The PPG clear was more yellow because it had the most UV protection. Watch the sandpaper comparison where he sands with the norton and 3m red for 30 seconds, switches to 3m Green Corps and stops after 15 and you can clearly see it was cutting harder. The car he was doing it on really needed blasting but in his defence, he might have not been able to sell blasting. In 6"da, 8"da, and fileboard, in 36,40 and 80g Green Corps is about the best paper there is bar none. The other 2 half rolls he had laying there, also some of the cheapest stuff you can buy. I really liked the episode when he demanded the paint shop clerk pour almost a quart of acrylic tinting base into 2 qts of epoxy primer to turn it blue. Truth is a lot of modern paint formulas call for a tinted sealer for coverage purposes. Pete would rather modify the epoxy into an acrylic instead of buying the right stuff. Watch the one where he's getting ready to cut a Camaro rear body in half and section it. That would get me shit-canned.

    It's not been long since he bought a Sata and put the Binks 7 down. A Binks 7 puts nearly 50% of your materials in the air. A#7 was a workhorse of a gun in it's day but they were out of fashion 30 years ago. He could have been buying better clear and putting it on the car instead of buying cheap stuff and putting half of it up the booth stack.

    He talks alot of high end talk, but other then the occasional can of Concept base all I see are low end materials along with some antiquated methods. When they do a video on a finished car they bounce around it real quick then show off the underhood and interior, or focus on one panel. I've never seen enough of a finished car to really even make a judgement call if it looks good or bad.

    If you want to go on about how great he is have at it but he's targeting the novice that doesn't know any better and encouraging them to play mad chemist. The best advice and what he should be saying is to follow the manufactures tech sheets for the product you buy. It has all the info you need to know.

    I wish him luck. I hope putting a paint shop in a sand pit works out for him.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019 at 4:31 AM
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  7. 16Raptor

    16Raptor Truckin'

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    Id like to know how I didn't do it right I've bin doing it this way for many year's never had issue so **** you sir I'm doing it the right way go look at all my pictures I've posted of doing them. I can send you additional pictures but telling me I didn't do it right is an insualt I've bin doing this stuff along side my full-time job for many year's I know what I'm doing. You fuckin prick!
     
  8. letitsnow

    letitsnow I'm Awesome

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    Pay close attention to what Hipster is typing - he obviously knows (what is considered) the right way to do this stuff. I am not saying that you didn't/don't do a good job. You took fewer short cuts than most do. These are just old 'driver' trucks. No need to act like you are an expert, just because your way works. I've been doing autobody for 35+ years. Only 5 of those years were as my main income, but I have been at it a while. Several ways work. Many of them are wrong, but we can make them work.

    Telling the average backyard mechanic not to overlap a panel - it just doesn't work out. Most don't have the tools or patience to make a panel fit well enough to butt weld. They screw it up, then burn big holes all over while welding, then basically give up and lather mud all over it. Then it all falls apart and they bring it to somebody like me, thinking I can make it new again for $500. I typically tell them to bring me $3000 cash, and I might work on it (doing it right). Usually/hopefully they just go away haha.

    This isn't about you - this is about trying to help a guy who doesn't want rodents getting in through to bottom of truck.
     
  9. 16Raptor

    16Raptor Truckin'

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    No shit and I was trying hepl the guy out I've posted pictures of my work I don't cut corners I don't over lap. I've posted pictures of my work before during and after so before you sit there and tell me I didn't do it right and I'm some backyard body man **** off. I did 90 GMC Sierra seven years ago and still looks as good as the day I do it I don't stew around and yes sometimes you have no choice you have to but weld and if done right and the the right steps are taken it'll last. So don't slander me bud! I can atlesat post pictures of the work I do to prove I ant just some bitch sitting on a computer. I take alot of pride in my body work and I do it right so that it last I got a good reputation for what I do so to tell me I don't know what I'm doing is insulting. What happened to the way forums used to be back when gear heads were helping out gear heads now it's all about how can we gang up on someone and put them down and slander them.
     
  10. Hipster

    Hipster I'm Awesome

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    I described the proper repair method to do a rocker in post 23. Oem repair guidelines trump's all, me , you, I-car, ASE, and also how the insurance companies think how you should fix it. I have fixed many the way I described working in a GM bodyshop back in the late 90's. My information is pretty much straight up out of GM's manual. I had no problem telling an adjuster after showing him Gm's repair guidelines to go get his boss and come back and in the meantime I was going to notify the customer that the job was being held up because the Ins Co. didn't want authorize fixing the car properly. They go back out to their vehicle and in 15 minutes I would have an estimate in my hand with every labor operation I asked for.

    There are other ways, but none are really the right way.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019 at 8:01 PM

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