Running terribly

[Sle-z_90]

Does your block have the bosses for a roller cam? If so, get one, it'll last longer and give you better performance vs the same duration as a Flat Tappet one.

Yes, it does. Would like to spend on that eventually. I'm trying to stay under 2k right now and dont think that would fit. That's why I'm hoping I can skip the machine shop for the time being. I guess I could buy a running 350 for around 1,000 but then who knows how long that one will last.

 

[Schurkey]

However, would using a ridge reamer and stone hone tool be a terrible idea in this situation?

Far as I'm concerned, a ridge reamer is a terrible idea in ANY situation.

I've seen more blocks ruined with a ridge reamer that cuts too deeply, than "helped" with one.

When it was me, I used a dingle_berry brush instead of a "stone hone".

REALLY? DINGLE-BERRY "***********" IS CENSORED?

If I could get an honest 300hp

Possible. Good luck. You'll need computer tuning.

So, if I could ream the ridge,

I wouldn't.

Measure the bore. Determine the taper. Service limit according to the service manual is .001. My block had ~.0015, and it's going fine. .002 wouldn't worry me too much. Anyting beyond that is a crapshoot. Decades ago, .007 was considered the ABSOLUTE LIMIT for a grandma-goes-to-church engine that had to start and run, and the full-service gas station checked the oil at every fill-up. Far as I'm concerned, half that is too damn much.

get one of the performance rebuild kits from Enginetech,

FIND OUT what the compression height of the pistons is. First Guess: At least .010 too short, maybe .020 too short. That means you're buying (much) thinner head gaskets, or cutting the block decks excessively.

and some vortec heads and intake run it 2-3 years that would be awesome.

You're making EGR very difficult, you'll be fabricating brackets and supports, and you're going to need significant computer tuning.

 

[1990Z71Swede]

Would using a ridge reamer and stone hone tool be a terrible idea in this situation?

I don't se any situation were the ridge reamer would be a particulary good idea other than when removing the ridge to be able to remove pistons unscathed.

When the bores wear, they wear harder on the thrust sides making them out of round. Also, significant wear is normaly only on the top 3/4 inch or so of the bore. Halfway down the stroke of a worn bore it will usually measure fairly close to the original dimension.

So at the top of a very worn bore the piston ring has the impossible job of trying to seal an expanding conical bore that at the same time goes from round to oval...

You can remove the ridge and stone hone the schiit out of that bore. Its not going to get any rounder or straighter.

The only way to make it right again is to take it to a good machine shop.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Do not use a ridge reamer. Carb spray and elbow grease will take forever to remove the ridge. Use a razor blade with careful pressure and see if you can scrape it off. I'd get the short block disassembled and use a bar hone to remove the carbon and clean up the bores