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If you go to 1.6 rockers, you'll get bigger lift, obviously. Take your advertised lift with 1.5 rockers divide by 1.5 and multiply by 1.6, that'll give you your static lift. I wouldn't buy an engine unless I got all the info about it including the cam card showing your lift, duration, grind timing, LSA, etc.Although I'm planning on going with a 1.5 ratio, would I see any improvement going to a 1.6 ratio with a stock cam?
Roller rockers really only help above 5000 rpm. Your friction losses aren't going to be noticeable in gas mileage.So I'm planning on using a set of roller rockers to help with mileage. I rarely make any shifts above 3500 RPM so the low end torque the swirl port heads provide.
If you run guideplates, use regular rockers. If you don't use guideplates, use self-aligning rockers. Are you building a high-rpm motor with good heads? If not, don't spend extra money on roller rockers.
If you have access, Engine Masters episode 29 has dyno testing of different rockers to see if there are any horsepower gains. My takeaway is to spend the money on 7/16 studs. Also, I looked for 1.6:1 stamped steel self-aligning rockers, but nobody seems to be making them for a decent price.
These should work on my 88 4.3 shouldn’t they?https://www.kmjperformance.com/i-24...s-1-6-long-slot-late-model-self-aligning.html
I use these. 1.6 self aligning stamped steel. $8 a pop. Can report not a single issue with my set.