Replacing/Rebuilding my 700R4 for the last time!

[PlayingWithTBI]

In preparation for tomorrow, I ordered 2 TV cables, one from SlammerZon and the other from FleaBay. The Amazon (made in China) was a 2 day delivery and the FleaBay (made in USA) finally came today - I just wanted to be sure I got one in time.

I also ordered some Jesus clips in case I lose one or two - I think I have enough now.

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[GrimsterGMC]

That's another thing, the EBL comes with its own cable (using a 3 wire mini stereo jack) to USB. I don't use my ALDL cable anymore. I mounted the jack under the dash below the glove box so, all I do, is plug it in. Don't even need access to the computer box so, I can use my glove box for stuff now.

That was the biggest hassle when I was using Craigs stuff to burn chips, having to take the ECU out of it's hiding place to swap them over, just no room up under that vent duct. The EBL is just plug and play. That and the data transfer is about 20x faster now.

 

[Scooterwrench]

In preparation for tomorrow, I ordered 2 TV cables, one from SlammerZon and the other from FleaBay. The Amazon (made in China) was a 2 day delivery and the FleaBay (made in USA) finally came today - I just wanted to be sure I got one in time.

I also ordered some Jesus clips in case I lose one or two - I think I have enough now.

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How do they compare quality wise? I thought maybe I had a binding TV cable so I got one from NAPA and it turned out to be a POS. While I was changing the motor I put my factory original back in. The adjuster on the NAPA cable was chincey and I was never confident that it would hold adjustment although it did.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

How do they compare quality wise? I thought maybe I had a binding TV cable so I got one from NAPA and it turned out to be a POS. While I was changing the motor I put my factory original back in. The adjuster on the NAPA cable was chincey and I was never confident that it would hold adjustment although it did.

These look a little low on the quality side. It looks like, after adjustment, I'll need to wrap a zip tie around it so there's less of a chance for it to come loose...we'll see. When I get the OE cable out, I'll see what the differences are.

 

[kenh]

I also ordered some Jesus clips in case I lose one or two - I think I have enough now.

Now that you an extra clip, you won't need it!

Ken

 

[someotherguy]

Now that you an extra clip, you won't need it!

Ken

Every time I needed a SEMS screw for the wiper cowl, or under steering column trim, or the couple other applications for them - I had to hunt in the misc. screws and hope I'd find one in the right length. I finally got fed up and just bought a 50 pack assorted lengths of them. I sure hope I get to use at least a few of them, LOL

Richard

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

We got back on the trans yesterday;
1) Drained the fluid and dropped the pan. Pulled the Valve Body and put it on the bench for minor surgery. Removed the roll pin and performed a 3-4 Valveectomy. One thing I noticed, the "Beige" spring for later shifts won't slide all the way on to the stem of the spool. In my mind, that'll make the shift even later, or not at all, like we experienced.

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Anyway, we just said screw it and, put the "Blue" one back in. Put the Valve Body back on, bolted up the pan, and went on to #2 on the list.

2) Removed the OE TV Cable and compared it to the "Made in USA" one. The new one just has a slide for adjustment rather than the spring loaded button on the OE. The sleeve is about 6" longer and the cable length is adjustable, using the set screw clamping thingy. We wound up cutting ~9" of excess cable after adjusting.

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3) I took the weights off the Governor, I had in the box, so I could weigh them. It had a #3 and a #4 on it (the higher the number, the lighter the weight). We put the governor in, filled it with fluid, started it up and checked pressures. Adjusted a little until we got the same values as before.

4) We took it out for a ride. 1-2, part throttle, shifted firm at ~20 MPH. 2-3 shifted firm ~40 MPH. Then it went into 4th about a second after shifting to 3rd (maybe a little delayed from before the lighter weights). Then, I hit it from a dead stop, I had to feed the pedal to it to keep from spinning too much but, fast enough to keep it in 1st. That took a couple tries but, I got it. At WOT, 1-2 shifted at 5820 RPM (and tires chirped). It wouldn't shift into 3rd before it hit the rev limiter at ~5800. Note: my DD Dash records Highest RPM until you reset it or, cycle the key.

We took it back to the shop, jacked it up (a lot of jacking going on), and pulled the governor. I replaced the #4 spring with a #2 (2 grams lighter). Dropped it down, checked fluid level, and went out again. 1-2 WOT shifted at 5760 and 2-3 ~5800 just after I let off a little. I'm gonna raise the rev limiter to ~6000 going forward. This engine reaches peak HP at ~5600 so, with the wide gear split between 1 and 2, It should still be in its peak power range... we'll see. I may drop the weight another gram, after watching a couple logs, IDK.

When in 4th gear, I can hit it and, it'll go for a second, or so, then downshift into 3rd. I can go WOT in 3rd as high as I want, then shift into OD, and it'll grab 4th nice and firm.

I'm gonna call this a win. Thanks @NickTransmissions for all your help and guidance!

 

[Scooterwrench]

The cable in the top of the pic(the one you used?)is for a TH350 or at least the adjuster is that type. If you motor is topped out at 5600 there's no reason to spin it beyond 5800. Maybe play with the governor a little more to bring the shifts down.

 

[Scooterwrench]

the set screw clamping thingy.

Those are called cable stops. I have to make those just about every time I install an S&S carb on a Harley. The cables are always way too long and have cast zinc stops that I have to cut off and shorten the cables up.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

If you motor is topped out at 5600 there's no reason to spin it beyond 5800.

That all depends on where you wind up after the shift. If it's too low, you're better off going a little over peak while you're still revving.