Replacing all fuel lines, 88 RCSB TBI 4.3L

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,970
Reaction score
13,756
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
On which vehicle?
On the vehicle in the quoted passage directly above my comment in that post.

You're both correct. My Wife's non A/C Buick has no return line, nor that 1/4" vapor line. I still don't understand why A/C has anything to do with fuel return and vapor lines.
 

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
There's only two. The inlet from the tank, and the outlet to the carb. Not sure where the mix up is.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,970
Reaction score
13,756
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
My 76 Trans Am, however, was equipped with A/C from the factory.... and indeed has both a return and vapor line.
One mix-up: The idea that the OEMs used a "vapor return" and a "(liquid) return". There is no "liquid return" except for the liquid unintentionally forced down the vapor return plumbing.

On the fuel injected trucks, SUV's, etc, all gasoline engines, 6 or 8 cyl, used 3/8" pressure, 5/16" return, and 1/4" vapor lines from 88-98.
Second mix-up: Using "vapor line" instead of "fuel tank vent to charcoal canister".
 

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
So, a little more on topic here, I've been meaning to drain the tank and hang it back up. SIGH..... a few spots here might be ready to rot through. Since $130 shipped is out of the question for a new tank, I went to AZ and picked up a tank repair kit.

I know, I know, not the right way to fix it, but my wallet is too thin at the moment to justify a new tank.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,970
Reaction score
13,756
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
Used to be, most towns of a certain size had at least one radiator-repair shop.

Due to the commonality of service practices, they'd also repair fuel tanks. "Boil" them out, solder up leaks, etc.

But now radiator shops are all but extinct. Another casualty of the cheap Chinese radiators.
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,009
Reaction score
8,891
Location
The 26th State
Used to be, most towns of a certain size had at least one radiator-repair shop.

We used to have one, and I took my Buick radiator there. Later, when I needed work on my trucks radiator, the shop had closed and I had to go to the next town over. I checked on the shop in the next town a year or so ago, and found they had closed, too.

But now radiator shops are all but extinct. Another casualty of the cheap Chinese radiators.

Don't forget the change in technology..... brass/copper to aluminum/plastic.

DeCaff2007, check to see if you have a gas tank renu in your area. They will coat it with a plastic stuff that will fix leaks and keep it from rusting. I have my original tank sitting, and plan on getting it done eventually. Many years ago, I fixed a tank with epoxy putty made for gas, so that can work too.
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
9,552
Reaction score
14,679
Location
Tonopah, AZ
Due to the commonality of service practices, they'd also repair fuel tanks. "Boil" them out, solder up leaks, etc.
Ages ago I brazed one on my 69 GTX's tank. Hooked a hose to the tailpipe of my 66 T-Bird and stuck it in the filler neck. Let the T-Bird idle for a while before brazing the crack. Worked well but, I was young and dumb back then - leave it to the experts :rolleyes:
 

Erik the Awful

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2019
Messages
7,614
Reaction score
15,528
Location
Choctaw, OK
Years ago when I worked as a contractor the Navy borrowed an A/M32-60A air-start cart from the Air Force. It was painted OD green but had the typical black reflective tape markings so that at night if you drove towards it, your headlights made it very visible. Sure enough, in the middle of one night a sea-man dropped her phone while driving a JG30 tow tractor on the flightline, and rear-ended the -60, crushing the end of the nearly-full 60 gallon fuel tank and spilling JP8 (high-grade kerosene, aka jet fuel) everywhere. The -60s had been mostly replaced by -95s (hence why the Air Force was willing to loan a -60), and parts weren't being produced any more. There were no fuel tanks available. Very quickly that -60 ended up becoming the sole -60 in the Navy inventory, and one of my coworkers got the job of welding the stainless steel tank. He set it on a cart over the industrial drain, stuffed a running garden hose into it, and let it rinse for 48 hours before tig-welding it.
 

DeCaff2007

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
1,120
Reaction score
1,268
Location
PA
We do have a radiator shop (which, I am banned from). We also have a gas tank repair shop. Might have two of them, actually. I bet not many people in this crack head town even know that those places are here.

My Wife and I have actually priced getting the radiator in her Buick restored. It's excessively pricey. Better off getting a repro aftermarket radiator.

As for the 34 year old tank from my truck.. well, I only put two patches on it. They seem to be holding.

You must be registered for see images attach


Also, I took a look at the tank strap just under the cab. Strange design. It seems to have a bracket that bolts to the driver side frame at a 90° angle, then from there a strap wraps around the tank and bolts into a hole in said bracket. Well, it took a minute to figure out how that strap was supposed to go, because mine was jammed up into cab and the bolt was sheared off.

You must be registered for see images attach


Fixed this by grinding out the rivets and removing the captive T-bolt. Then, found a bolt with matching thread pitch, cut the hex head to fit in that fold, and pressed it back together with the bench vise. Then I replaced the rivets with a nut and bolt combination. Works great.

You must be registered for see images attach


If this isn't obvious, I had to cut out the rotted through area where the hole for the bolt is, and then chicken **** welded a piece of 20 gauge steel in it's place. Then, used a step bit to drill a hole where there should be one. I kept the original cut out piece there for reference.

Why, you ask. Just get new tank straps. Yeah, right. Find the parts, wait 2 weeks for them to get here, then be balls deep in another impossible project by the time you realize you never finished the first one. Also, while sweat equity is worthless, there's a certain sense of accomplishment in doing the job yourself.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
10,970
Reaction score
13,756
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
May want to grind-out and re-weld that patch. You don't want the fuel tank falling out 'cause the patch broke.

I'm not enough of a weldor to know what I'm seeing; but not removing rust from the weld area may be part of it. Beyond that, I don't really know. Doesn't seem to have any penetration--not enough amps? Wrong polarity?

Kenny can probably offer better advice.
 
Top