Removal of the HVAC box on a 94 help?

Discussion in 'OEM and Custom Interiors' started by Knuckle Dragger, Oct 17, 2020.

  1. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Rascal Whore

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    I'm changing the dash on my 94 and figured I better change the re-circulation door actuator while I'm here. Already had to do the blend door actuator, this one can't be too far behind. My dash is out can any one give me a preview on where the bolts are holding the box to the firewall? Anything I need to look out for?
     
  2. someotherguy

    someotherguy I'm Awesome

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    EDIT - after typing all the below info I re-read your post (sorry half asleep) and it sounds like you just want to change the actuators? You can do that without removing the dash or HVAC box. Did you have other reasons to remove it? It can be tricky to do the recirculate actuator with the dash in place but even that is do-able, just tight. With the dash out, it would be cake. No need to remove the HVAC box generally unless it's broken or you want to do a really thorough cleaning of the crud that can collect on the air inlet side of the evaporator core. With all that said, of course you'll be opening the system and letting the refrigerant out...


    There's one bolt from the interior side, 10mm, use a long extension to reach it. It's near the top hump of the evaporator core, towards the left (driver side). You can get a feel for where it's at by looking at the engine compartment side as you'll see the end of the bolt poking through a weld nut on the firewall.

    There's numerous 10mm screws (they just go into the plastic housing) on the engine compartment side; they're black and have the larger captive washer so they do stand out. A couple of them are hidden - you'll need to remove the coolant reservoir to see them all. At least a couple of them are in the middle of the firewall behind the engine. One is hidden a little bit by the passenger side cowl drain duct. I used to remember how many in total there were, it's around 6; sorry but I've forgotten over the years. There may also be one nut on the engine side to remove near the heater core lines.

    Richard
     
  3. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Rascal Whore

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    Are we talking about the same actuator? The blend was easy with the dash in, the mode looks pretty easy but the re-cerc is buried top right, right?


    EDIT: I just went out and looked again. I can see the bottom bolt is definitely doable, the top I'm not sure. I really really would rather not dick with the A/C and heater lines. I was only going to change it because I thought the dash had to come out to replace it. Now I need to ponder if the risk of failure is worth the hassle of doing it preemptively.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2020
  4. someotherguy

    someotherguy I'm Awesome

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  5. Knuckle Dragger

    Knuckle Dragger Rascal Whore

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    I did, it's out. Not fun with big hands and horrible arthritis.

    Still better than pulling the case. :)
     
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