Reliability???

[GavinJansma]

I recently swapped a 5.7 vortec that has over 200,000 miles (I don't know the exact amount) out of a junkyard truck into my daily. What can I do to the engine itself to make it as reliable as possible and get it to at least 400k?

 

[Schurkey]

1. Prayer.

2a. Oil sampling, change oil/filter when needed. I'd take samples at ~3K miles, and at 3K--4K intervals after that until you see the oil starting to degrade. Depending on what the lab analysis finds, you may or may not need to make repairs as indicated. See recent oil analysis thread. www.gmt400.com/threads/oil-analysis.59491/

Oil Analysis

So I shelled out $30.00 for a snapshot inside my 5.7, I know it is mostly useless unless it’s done over an extended period. But at the same time it does give an idea of current condition. Also did transmission fluid, which I’m curious to see, but that didn’t come in yet. Anyway, numbers look...

www.gmt400.com

in particular, post #36.
2b. Dump a 20-oz bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner in the gas tank at every oil change.
2c. Buy "Top Tier" fuel. "Top Tier" fuel has additional detergent additives to keep injectors 'n' valves clean.

3. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is maintained. Fresh O2 sensors, and the upgraded electronic fuel injection system should help.

4. Buy a scan tool, learn to use it. Check fuel trims, O2 voltage/crosscounts, misfire counts cylinder-by-cylinder. Verify ALL sensors, and computer outputs.

5. Install a bypass oil filter in addition to the "normal" full-flow fuel filter. Requires a return fitting on valve cover, or preferably in the oil pan. The supply tee can go under the existing oil pressure sensor. (Supply is easier than return.) My experience has been with "Frantz" brand, but Amsoil sells their version, and there are others. I get 'em used on eBay. The Frantz filters use a roll of a_sswipe as the filter medium--cheap and effective.

6. Clean/effective radiator, along with proper coolant--not old/worn-out/depleted/electrolytic coolant. Flush the engine and PULL THE DRAIN PLUGS which may be a regular iron/steel plug on one side, and a knock sensor on the other side. The knock sensor has to be reinstalled with sealant and proper torque. Make sure the fan clutch engages, and the actual engine temperature is reasonable, using a stock-temperature 'stat. DO NOT drill holes in the thermostat.

7a. Effective air cleaner with quality filter. No holes in the air intake tubes. Don't waste time, money, effort, or enthusiasm on "hot-rod" "air intake kits". Any engine with a mass-air sensor probably should not have an oiled-gauze (K&N style) air filter. Overall, I'm not that thrilled with K&N filters anyway.
7b. Replace the fuel filter now 'n' then, too.

8. Fix any oil leaks.

9. Early Vortec engines had known problems with intake gaskets. Those faulty gaskets are probably all replaced by now, and the gaskets available currently are improved. It's worth replacing them, though, when the intake manifold comes apart to install the upgraded injectors.

10. Assure PCV system works properly.





Bonus: My service-replacement Caprice engine installed in my '88 K1500 went 19 years and 80K miles, failed due to head gasket problem that pounded cylinders 3 and, especially, 5. If the head gaskets had been replaced before the engine self-destructed, I'd still be driving it.

 

[GavinJansma]

1. Prayer.

2. Oil sampling, change oil/filter when needed. I'd take samples at ~3K miles, and at 3K--4K intervals after that until you see the oil starting to degrade. Depending on what the lab analysis finds, you may or may not need to make repairs as indicated. See recent oil analysis thread. www.gmt400.com/threads/oil-analysis.59491/

Oil Analysis

So I shelled out $30.00 for a snapshot inside my 5.7, I know it is mostly useless unless it’s done over an extended period. But at the same time it does give an idea of current condition. Also did transmission fluid, which I’m curious to see, but that didn’t come in yet. Anyway, numbers look...

www.gmt400.com

in particular, post #36.

3. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is maintained. Fresh O2 sensors, and the upgraded electronic fuel injection system should help.

4. Buy a scan tool, learn to use it. Check fuel trims, O2 voltage/crosscounts, misfire counts cylinder-by-cylinder. Verify ALL sensors, and computer outputs.

5. Install a bypass oil filter in addition to the "normal" full-flow fuel filter. Requires a return fitting on valve cover, or preferably in the oil pan. The supply tee can go under the existing oil pressure sensor. (Supply is easier than return.) My experience has been with "Frantz" brand, but Amsoil sells their version, and there are others. I get 'em used on eBay. The Frantz filters use a roll of a_sswipe as the filter medium--cheap and effective.

6. Clean/effective radiator, along with proper coolant--not old/worn-out/depleted/electrolytic coolant. Flush the engine and PULL THE DRAIN PLUGS which may be a regular iron/steel plug on one side, and a knock sensor on the other side. The knock sensor has to be reinstalled with sealant and proper torque. Make sure the fan clutch engages, and the actual engine temperature is reasonable, using a stock-temperature 'stat. DO NOT drill holes in the thermostat.

7a. Effective air cleaner with quality filter. No holes in the air intake tubes. Don't waste time, money, effort, or enthusiasm on "hot-rod" "air intake kits". Any engine with a mass-air sensor probably should not have an oiled-gauze (K&N style) air filter. Overall, I'm not that thrilled with K&N filters anyway.
7b. Replace the fuel filter now 'n' then, too.

8. Fix any oil leaks.

9. Early Vortec engines had known problems with intake gaskets. Those faulty gaskets are probably all replaced by now, and the gaskets available currently are improved. It's worth replacing them, though, when the intake manifold comes apart to install the upgraded injectors.

10. Assure PCV system works properly.





Bonus: My service-replacement Caprice engine installed in my '88 K1500 went 19 years and 80K miles, failed due to head gasket problem that pounded cylinders 3 and, especially, 5. If the head gaskets had been replaced before the engine self-destructed, I'd still be driving it.

Alright I'll do all of those and I'll give it my best shot, I'm currently rebuilding the whole intake manifold and mpfi upgrade.... Should I think about replacing lifters or valve springs? I can't decide as I've heard that it will make the engine fall apart faster because the new valve train parts will put more pressure on the bottom end. But I've also had engines that have been crapped out from a collapsed lifter, and valve hitting piston?

 

[GavinJansma]

1. Prayer.

2a. Oil sampling, change oil/filter when needed. I'd take samples at ~3K miles, and at 3K--4K intervals after that until you see the oil starting to degrade. Depending on what the lab analysis finds, you may or may not need to make repairs as indicated. See recent oil analysis thread. www.gmt400.com/threads/oil-analysis.59491/

Oil Analysis

So I shelled out $30.00 for a snapshot inside my 5.7, I know it is mostly useless unless it’s done over an extended period. But at the same time it does give an idea of current condition. Also did transmission fluid, which I’m curious to see, but that didn’t come in yet. Anyway, numbers look...

www.gmt400.com

in particular, post #36.
2b. Dump a 20-oz bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner in the gas tank at every oil change.
2c. Buy "Top Tier" fuel. "Top Tier" fuel has additional detergent additives to keep injectors 'n' valves clean.

3. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is maintained. Fresh O2 sensors, and the upgraded electronic fuel injection system should help.

4. Buy a scan tool, learn to use it. Check fuel trims, O2 voltage/crosscounts, misfire counts cylinder-by-cylinder. Verify ALL sensors, and computer outputs.

5. Install a bypass oil filter in addition to the "normal" full-flow fuel filter. Requires a return fitting on valve cover, or preferably in the oil pan. The supply tee can go under the existing oil pressure sensor. (Supply is easier than return.) My experience has been with "Frantz" brand, but Amsoil sells their version, and there are others. I get 'em used on eBay. The Frantz filters use a roll of a_sswipe as the filter medium--cheap and effective.

6. Clean/effective radiator, along with proper coolant--not old/worn-out/depleted/electrolytic coolant. Flush the engine and PULL THE DRAIN PLUGS which may be a regular iron/steel plug on one side, and a knock sensor on the other side. The knock sensor has to be reinstalled with sealant and proper torque. Make sure the fan clutch engages, and the actual engine temperature is reasonable, using a stock-temperature 'stat. DO NOT drill holes in the thermostat.

7a. Effective air cleaner with quality filter. No holes in the air intake tubes. Don't waste time, money, effort, or enthusiasm on "hot-rod" "air intake kits". Any engine with a mass-air sensor probably should not have an oiled-gauze (K&N style) air filter. Overall, I'm not that thrilled with K&N filters anyway.
7b. Replace the fuel filter now 'n' then, too.

8. Fix any oil leaks.

9. Early Vortec engines had known problems with intake gaskets. Those faulty gaskets are probably all replaced by now, and the gaskets available currently are improved. It's worth replacing them, though, when the intake manifold comes apart to install the upgraded injectors.

10. Assure PCV system works properly.





Bonus: My service-replacement Caprice engine installed in my '88 K1500 went 19 years and 80K miles, failed due to head gasket problem that pounded cylinders 3 and, especially, 5. If the head gaskets had been replaced before the engine self-destructed, I'd still be driving it.

Im very interested in a oil bypass kit but I'm lost on what to buy and how it goes together.... Is there a thead or a hide somewhere?

 

[Erik the Awful]

Any engine with a mass-air sensor probably should not have an oiled-gauze (K&N style) air filter.

When I was a Nissan tech, the factory air filters were oiled-gauze and the cars had MAF sensors. If you installed the air filter as-is, the oil would end up on the MAF wire and cause issues. When we replaced the filters, we'd use compressed air to blow the excess oil off before installation. I'm fine with K&N air filters so long as you don't over oil the element. I run one on my Mustang.

Should I think about replacing lifters or valve springs? I can't decide as I've heard that it will make the engine fall apart faster because the new valve train parts will put more pressure on the bottom end. But I've also had engines that have been crapped out from a collapsed lifter, and valve hitting piston?

If you have the engine apart or upgrade the cam, replace the valvesprings, retainers, keepers, and timing chain. You don't say what year, but if it's a flat tappet cam and you have it apart, I'd replace the lifters. If it's a roller cam you can just disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble the lifters.

New valvetrain parts won't appreciably "put more pressure on the bottom end". Slap whomever told you that. Also, a collapsed lifter won't cause the valve to hit the piston. It will keep you from getting full lift. A broken valvespring or retainer absolutely can cause some valve-to-piston love-making.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Pray! Love it

Hey ...you might be able to achieve your goal, you never know. I've had engines get past 300k mi but the vehicles rotted out before the engines failed. The 'ideal' thing would have been to have cracked it open before installing it and see what you have and make adjustments/repairs then. But I get it, ..you wanted to get it on the road. At this point, 200k, you don't know the history or how it was maintained ...the wear issues are already 'baked-in' and you don't have a lot of control over them.

I'd personally take the "maintain it till she dies ...replace again strategy". Lot less stressfull and you can't control whatever wear patterns are there from the previous owner. The baked-in wear (or lack of) that is caused in the first 50k miles probably is the most important for setting the stage of how long an engine will last. So...why sweat what you can't change.

Run an inexpensive synthetic oil, something from like a farm & barn citgo or house brand that was cheap (but also good), or Walmart. Or just use whatever regular oil you've been using. Do good routine maintenance and fix things before they become major issues. Just drive it however you normally do. Keep your fingers crossed ....and put the money you didn't spend on small-gain 'voo-doo' performance mods ...put that $$ into a new engine when and if it craps out.

Maybe a good idea would be to keep your eye out for a good deal on another vortec engine if you see one cheap come up ...if you can buy one for a couple hundred bucks, let's say, buy it and put into storage. Eventually finding a 'good' Vortec engine will be harder to come by as the good ones get scouped up (like the one you just bought) ....and the quality of available replacements will be lower ..and those that remain will become more expensive. So, if you come across a decent one for $200, buy it, put oil in the cylinders and store on a pallet in a conditioned space. Then if and when yours blows up unexpectedly, you have a plan B in your back pocket.

You still have the transmission and all the other items on your truck to maintain too that might go at some point. I've used Walmart Synthetic gear lube for 20+ years in all my vehicles and never had any major wear issues and I've driven most of my vehicles up to close (or over) 300k mi. My Jetta TDI has 270k+ and I changed the oil on that every 10,000 mi (sometimes 12k) using Rotella Synthetic. The thing is, your truck could get stolen, flooded, crashed, etc or maybe you'll buy something newer ..and might not make it another 200k... Maybe it'll become your 'classic' and won't see more than 3k mi per year after a few years. Life is funny that way.

 

[Schurkey]

Im very interested in a oil bypass kit but I'm lost on what to buy and how it goes together.... Is there a thead or a hide somewhere?

Bypass filter kits are readily available used or NOS on eBay or brand new from various sources--Amsoil, for example.

Buy the kit, follow the instructions. The kits come with rubber hose, and some brass fittings. I don't tend to use that stuff. I put a tee under the oil pressure sending unit, and screw a -4 37 degree taper fitting into it. The sending unit goes in the other branch. Then I connect a steel-braid-over-Teflon (PTFE) supply hose from there to the filter. On the return side, there are commercially-available oil fill caps that can be used as a return if they fit your vehicle. I put a fitting in the oil pan instead, and ran another steel-braid-over-Teflon liner hose from the filter to the pan. Both hoses are -4, nominally 1/4" but actually a little smaller in diameter. Doesn't take much. The filter inlet is restricted to perhaps .060 so it won't affect oil pressure at idle very much.

The filter on my '88 is conveniently on the driver's side front inner fender. I'm not sure where it'll go on the '97 when I finally get around to installing one; and I haven't put one on the Trailblazer 'cause I have no idea where it's gonna fit. On the frame-rail, maybe.