rebuilding stock vortec heads

[big_mike]

I'm plotting on the 395 cam while I have it tore down, not a big step up but good for what I need and it'll run on a stock converter just fine. Those Comp retainers are what is used when installing LS springs on vortec heads, they also use the stock 7* locks. For $75 I'm doing new better springs cause the stockers have about 175k on them. Yea, I was just going to use the Permatex compound but might use that finer compound if the seats don't look real pitted up or anything. I have seen a couple methods for DIY checking the valves are sealing that don't require special tools. I believe the stock head bolts are TTY on 96-98 motors, not really a issue with the cost for a brand new set though, better safe than sorry. Those head gaskets are advertised at 4.125 bore/.0415" thick compressed and are a MLS gasket as well. The stem seals are the correct ones, vortec heads use a positive seat seal without the oring, according to Felpro anyway. And yes, the balancer has a groove in it, but I'm ordering a brand new AC Delco replacement because I noticed the rubber was also starting to break down. It's also inexpensive to do while I'm in there. I'm getting a new cover, they are only like $40. Gonna run stock rockers and pushrods.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Hey if you're using a stock bore, run this headgasket https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10105117 It is the same compressed thickness as the stock gasket on the vortecs so you won't lose compression. Also the gasket bore is smaller so you won't increase the quench area.

 

[big_mike]

Hey if you're using a stock bore, run this headgasket https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10105117 It is the same compressed thickness as the stock gasket on the vortecs so you won't lose compression. Also the gasket bore is smaller so you won't increase the quench area.

It is stock bore/stock rotating assembly.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

It is stock bore/stock rotating assembly.

Then use the gasket I posted. Or thinner if the piston to deck clearance permits.

 

[big_mike]

Then use the gasket I posted. Or thinner if the piston to deck clearance permits.

Thankx for the heads up. I was wondering if there was a thinner gasket to get a little more bump in compression over stock without milling the heads. The little things add up eventually.

That Felpro was listed as a severe duty which I figured would be nice since I will tow some with the tahoe, but when I do it won't be alot of weight either.

 

[c1500deathtrap]

Well these gasket are what was originally on there, so you won't increase compression, you'll just keep what you have.

 

[big_mike]

Well these gasket are what was originally on there, so you won't increase compression, you'll just keep what you have.

Gotcha

 

[Schurkey]

I was just going to use the Permatex compound but might use that finer compound if the seats don't look real pitted up or anything.

If the seats/faces are pitted AT ALL, you're having them professionally ground, lapping is not going to fix anything.

Make VERY certain that the lapping compound is totally removed from the valve and head when you're done. You don't need grit inside the engine.

 

[big_mike]

If the seats/faces are pitted AT ALL, you're having them professionally ground, lapping is not going to fix anything.

Make VERY certain that the lapping compound is totally removed from the valve and head when you're done. You don't need grit inside the engine.

I have seen minor pitting removed by lapping. Just takes alot longer and alot of patience. But if the pits are deep then I agree, new seats are a must. I'm gonna try lapping first as it's cheapest and if I can't get a good seal I'll just have to have seats done and at that point I'll buy new valves too. The heads will be cleaned VERY well before final reassembly.

 

[big_mike]

I found a local racer who is gonna magnaflux the heads for me for free once I get them off and disassembled. I'm hoping they check out and are not cracked but we shall see.