Rear drum brakes overheating?!?

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jrfinchen1

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I have a 1992 chevy silverado 5.7 with a 14 bolt FF with drum brakes. Just replaced all new shoes, springs, hardware, and cylinders. They ran ok for the first couple of hours then started over heating extremely. I removed drums off both side and checked auto adjusters and adjusted them all the way down. Several times with still the same overheating issue. I checked parking brake wire and loosened it and that wasn’t it. I also have my break light on my dash but it has been on ever since I have had the vehicle over a year now. Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks.
 

thinger2

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For whatever reason, the shoes are dragging and smoking the drums.
Are you sure you have them in correctly?
You have a "Leading shoe" and a "Trailing shoe"
They are not the same size but you can install them backwards.
Did you make sure that your backing plates dont have deep wear grooves in them that cause the shoes to hang instead of releasing?
Pretty common problem.
Did you clean the adjusters and make sure they work without binding?
I think based on your brake light that you might have air in the system and your wheel cyliders are not releasing.
And the parking brake cable on these trucks are a pretty strange setup.
You pretty much need to take it all apart and clean it and make sure it works.
Brake light being on forever means youve had a brake problem forever.
It is related.
 

Schurkey

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Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from ENGINE into AXLES + BRAKES.

Are you sure you have them in correctly?
You have a "Leading shoe" and a "Trailing shoe"
They are not the same size but you can install them backwards.
Let's be careful with terminology. The hateful, crappy 254mm (10") brakes are described by GM as "Leading/Trailing Shoe" drums. The four shoes (two on each side) are identical in lining and backing-plate.

The larger, 11.x" and 13" drums are Duo-Servo, and have primary and secondary shoes. Primary shoe has the lining facing the front of the vehicle, secondary has the lining facing the rear of the vehicle.

Primary shoe tends to have shorter, lighter-colored, thicker, and/or softer lining.
Secondary shoe tends to have longer, darker, thinner, and/or harder lining.
The backing plates are the same, but the linings are different.

Did you make sure that your backing plates dont have deep wear grooves in them that cause the shoes to hang instead of releasing?
Pretty common problem.
Yes.

Did you clean the adjusters and make sure they work without binding?
He says he re-adjusted. They can't be seized. Might be binding, or have worn teeth on the star-wheel...but none of that is likely to cause the problem described.

I would be looking at two things:
1. Restricted rear brake hose (or crushed tubing on the rear brakes)
2. Master cylinder primary piston not fully retracting to it's at-rest position. Possibly caused by a misadjusted brake-pedal-to-booster pushrod; misadjusted/incorrect booster-to-master cylinder pushrod; or incorrect master cylinder.

I think based on your brake light that you might have air in the system and your wheel cyliders are not releasing.
Air in the system might cause the dash light issue. It would be more likely to prevent that hydraulic system from APPLYING the brakes, than to prevent it from releasing.

And the parking brake cable on these trucks are a pretty strange setup.
You pretty much need to take it all apart and clean it and make sure it works.
Brake light being on forever means youve had a brake problem forever.
It is related.
Most (NOT all) of the problems I see on these trucks with the brake warning light on the dash, is due to park brake cables not moving freely in the sheaths. Specifically, the front cable connected directly to the park brake pedal. Grabbing the cable under the driver's door, and pulling it sharply will take up the slack, lift the park brake pedal to it's proper "released" position, and open the switch for the warning light. (GM saves fifty cents by sharing an instrument cluster warning light between the park brake switch and the hydraulic system safety switch.) Any--or all--of the cables can be sticky/seized in the sheaths and causing problems. If the rear shoes on a Duo-Servo brake are not resting on the anchor pin at the top, the park brake is probably seized part-way "on", or the cables have been adjusted too tightly.

Always assure that Duo-Servo shoes rest on the anchor pin, adjust the service brakes first, then adjust the park brake (if needed).
 
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jrfinchen1

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For whatever reason, the shoes are dragging and smoking the drums.
Are you sure you have them in correctly?
You have a "Leading shoe" and a "Trailing shoe"
They are not the same size but you can install them backwards.
Did you make sure that your backing plates dont have deep wear grooves in them that cause the shoes to hang instead of releasing?
Pretty common problem.
Did you clean the adjusters and make sure they work without binding?
I think based on your brake light that you might have air in the system and your wheel cyliders are not releasing.
And the parking brake cable on these trucks are a pretty strange setup.
You pretty much need to take it all apart and clean it and make sure it works.
Brake light being on forever means youve had a brake problem forever.
It is related.
Could the master cylinder have anything to do with it ?
 

Schurkey

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2. Master cylinder primary piston not fully retracting to it's at-rest position. Possibly caused by a misadjusted brake-pedal-to-booster pushrod; misadjusted/incorrect booster-to-master cylinder pushrod; or incorrect master cylinder.

Could the master cylinder have anything to do with it ?
Yes.
 

Wickedstick

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I chased this issue for months on a 99 suburban with rear drums. Ended up being a stuck cable. I figured it out by taking all of the parking brake hardware out of the drum and removing the cables. I drove it like that for about a month then reinstalled with new cables. No issues since. It didn’t seem like it was sticking when I operated the parking brake but when I looked inside I eventually noticed the drivers side was hanging just a little.
 

packer0440

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Check to make sure your wheel bearings are not overtightened; this will make everything get hot (one shop I brought my truck to tightened it enough where the hub would not spin freely even without shoes in it)
 
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