Rear disc brakes

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

92terminator

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
39
Reaction score
7
Location
cape coral, fl
i think i have a spare 95 impala rear end somewhere...:think:

so i can use the rotors, calipers, brake pads, from a 95 impala/caprice ?? all i would need is to drill the holes bigger on the rotors and get the brackets?? and can i use oem brackets from a specific car?? i got a junk yard close by

thanks, jorge
 

6chevy9

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,243
Reaction score
36
Location
pinckney mi
i used all my parts off a chevy 10 bolt front, idk about the impala rears but its possible. and fyi if you use chevy fronts you will have lock up problems on all surfaces without a proportion valve. the front brakes are designed to do 75% of the stoping and they are on the rear.. if you use somthing that had rear disc brakes this may not be the case.
 

92terminator

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
39
Reaction score
7
Location
cape coral, fl
I used a kit I found on ebay from http://www.virginia4x4.com/rear disc brake conversions.html The kit is awesome everything bolted right up and it was extremely cheap compared to the ssbc or other aftermarket kits the downfall that I found out was the rotors and the lug nut studs that was a nightmare trying to get everything to work correct.

can you shed more light on what your saying? is your truck 6 or 5 lug? and what was the nightmare drilling the holes bigger on the drums?
 

6chevy9

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,243
Reaction score
36
Location
pinckney mi
i know this question was not directed toward me, but you pretty much need a press to put those studs in a set of rotoars. the rear axle shafts on mine needed to be drilled out for the front stud size and the rotoar was put behind the axle shaft flange and pressed together with the shaft. hope that helps a little. i would hope an actual kit comes drilled the right size for everything to make it a little less of a hassle.
 

Bowtiewarrior

Newbie
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
28
Reaction score
4
can you shed more light on what your saying? is your truck 6 or 5 lug? and what was the nightmare drilling the holes bigger on the drums?

sorry I know my response was very vague I was expecting questions,my axle is a 6 lug 14 bolt sf (but it can be either 5,6 or even 8) the kit claims you can use the existing studs or use the oem "longer" studs but trying to find something that has the same knurl diameter and longer is near impossible.. I must have cracked 5 rotors trying to get the studs threw them and the axle flange. I got fed up with it and drilled the rotor just a very tiny bit bigger and found a lug stud close enough with the knurl in the right position to bite in the axle flange vs the rotor and everything went together like it was factory. I will try to get some pictures of my set up in detail tomorrow.
 

RSTahoe99

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
146
Reaction score
5
Location
Ocono, Wisco
Drilling out the holes "a little bigger" is not preferred, when the rotor heats up the studs could move around in the rotor, which is definitely not ideal.

A quick trick to installing studs is to place the new studs in the freezer for hour or two and meanwhile take a unwanted lugnut drill out the threads or used several washers to take up space. One at a time take the frozen studs and place it in the hole in the rotor, use the drilled out lugnut as a spacer and a good lugnut with an impact and screw it in, until the stud is flush with the rotor. The frozen stud will shrink long enough to press into the hole in the rotor, giving you the press fit w/out using a press.
 

Bowtiewarrior

Newbie
Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
28
Reaction score
4
Drilling out the holes "a little bigger" is not preferred, when the rotor heats up the studs could move around in the rotor, which is definitely not ideal.

A quick trick to installing studs is to place the new studs in the freezer for hour or two and meanwhile take a unwanted lugnut drill out the threads or used several washers to take up space. One at a time take the frozen studs and place it in the hole in the rotor, use the drilled out lugnut as a spacer and a good lugnut with an impact and screw it in, until the stud is flush with the rotor. The frozen stud will shrink long enough to press into the hole in the rotor, giving you the press fit w/out using a press.

I tried every trick under the sun including the freezer trick your talking about and using a press for some reason as soon as you press a lug nut into the rotor it cracks unless its way too small.
 

6chevy9

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,243
Reaction score
36
Location
pinckney mi
everytime i have had to do studs i measure the knurl and the flat that it sits on, then get a drill that is half of the knurl size to drill out the rotor or flange or whatever its going in. i havnt had any noticeable problems. definatly no cracking.
 
Top