Rear Axle Lift-SOLVED-

[NightRunner]

These are very crude drawings so bare with me. This is how the axle should sit on the spring pack

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this is how it would sit with a 12” lift hanger. This is drawn with a 52” spring and the axle is even 2” forwad in this picture.

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Personally, I’d be absolutely terrified to run something at that angle on my truck. You could even dedicate it to off-road driving only, and I’d still refuse to drive it. Plus, I’m not sure how well that would hold up to towing either. You’re putting a ton of stress on multiple parts of the truck in awkward positions. It seems that design might achieve the look but not function whatsoever. Kind of like those fancy Bluetooth driveshafts you see on SEMA builds

 

[smdk2500]

A buddy of mine did something similar to what biggershaft posted. He couldnt find lift springs for his highboy for the amount of lift he wanted. If I remember right He used 1/2 plate to drop the front and rear mounting points on the spring. I haven't seen the truck in a few years so I cannot remember exactly how he kept the the plates from flexing inward and outward but some sort of bracing going from oppisite side frame rail to the drop bracket at an angle should work. Im not fabacator when it comes to things like so the bracket supports might not work out. I do know he had traction bars to help with axle wrap. I know in the front he used thick walled square tubing between what he used to drop the front springs. When he was done he was able to clear 46's with no problems and never had any issues with the way he had the springs mounted.

 

[RichLo]

All that lift on the shackle side would be insane amount of stress on almost every aspect of the rear suspension. Just asking some better peeps than me, would he be able to cut off the front leaf spring mount and do a similar bracket to bring the geometry closer to stock... with added bracing to the mount, and/or adding a traction bar type setup? He might be able to get pinion angle to where it should be without angled blocks under the springs thins way also.

BTW PigHunter, nice comeback. That doesn't happen very often.

 

[smdk2500]

Like i had said my buddie dropped both ends of the leaf spring down around 8ish inches. So basicly made a sort of subfame for the springs.
Well after he got the springs dropped where he needs them he could cut the perches off the axle set the pinion angle and reweld perches back on the axle and that should eliminate using any angled blocks for adjusting it.

 

[Biggershaft96]

Bluetooth driveshaft?

 

[NightRunner]

Bluetooth driveshaft?

Kind of a running jokes about the guys at SEMA that build the gigantic lifted trucks but don’t put the driveshaft up front (and sometimes the rear) for multiple reasons (time before SEMA, transportability is another one I’ve heard).

 

[phule]

Maybe a 4 link & coilovers would better suit the required 12"s of lift. It certainly would ride better & give more ability to be customized to certain needs.

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[BonestockK1500]

The sub frame idea seems so simple and logical to me given the requirements, but I’m almost 100% ignorant of any such extreme mod and probably shouldn’t even contribute here.

But as a logical human with a reasonable understanding of geometry and physics, all I can think of in my mind’s eye to meet the requirement given is to weld / bolt a massive hunk of steel between the existing frame (the aforementioned “ sub frame” idea) and desired location of new frame mounting point (12 inches lower than current) for both the forward and aft leaf spring “connections”, in effect keeping the axle and differential on an parallel horizontal plane but 12 inches lower than it is pre-mod. The only thought would be to make the aft change greater than the forward change in order to maintain the existing (or desired) pinion angle. Aside from that the obvious considerations of longer drive shaft and shock mounts and ladder bars exist, which Pighuntin is already aware of.

It seems like what Pighuntin was looking for is for someone to take that type of subframe idea described above (which seems like a pretty simple theoretical solution) and then expand on very very specific details such as , “I’d use a 4 inch box 3/4” wall steel stock with at least a 25,000 PSI tensile/compression strength rating and bolt it to the frame using XX” stainless xx” bolts with ..blah blah..then TIG/MIG/stick weld around the seams ... blah blah” you get the point.

Any perceived rudeness aside, perhaps the miscommunication and frustration in this thread was someone thinking he was asking one thing and others reading something different. Made more complex by heated discussions that didn’t contribute to the solution. Not uncommon when trying to communicate about such tedious details on such a small screen, or when talking to a wife.

All I want to see is the final product, a 12 inch lifted SAS with 6 dead pigs in the bed pulling a 15,000 lb trailer full of used truck parts through the NM desert with no axle wrap, call me selfish ! good luck to all and god bless.

 

[BonestockK1500]

Like i had said my buddie dropped both ends of the leaf spring down around 8ish inches. So basicly made a sort of subfame for the springs.
Well after he got the springs dropped where he needs them he could cut the perches off the axle set the pinion angle and reweld perches back on the axle and that should eliminate using any angled blocks for adjusting it.

This is exactly what I would imagine would be the solution, except he specifically wants 12 inches not 8. Same concept, just add lots of steel to fill the void.

 

[Bob L]

I did not go to trade school or college for auto repair. I learned by on the job pay attention training. I do not even pretend to be a great tech. What I am is good at taking tests evidently because I am also an ASE master tech with all the boxes you checked as well as auto body repair ,Painting and appraising. ASE tests require no more than having some knowledge of how things work and a lot of common sense. I have never held a job as a mechanic in a shop but have been an auto body tech for over 40 years. When I went to work as a manager of a AAA towing shop that required an ASE tech on the payroll to stay AAA certified I started taking tests so even when the prima donnas like you quit we could stay certified. ASE certification was the easiest part of running the shop or repairing cars and worth less than the stupid gold colored plaque they give you for becoming a Master.

I have been on this forum for over two years and you are the first one to really upset me with your attitude and childish attitude. I don't know why you havn't been banned a few pages ago. I am now done before saying something I would be banned for.