Public Service Message: Have you hydrostatic tested your air tanks?

[454cid]

You really don't need a full bottle - they come pressurized close to 2200PSI (IIRC). We had kits we used to charge our hydraulic accumulators on the extrusion presses. It's a couple gauges, a hose, and a Schrader valve connector. For a cushion from shock we'd charge it ~80% of operating pressure so, with a working pressure of 1,500 PSI, we'd charge it @~1,200. Once the bottle got too low, we'd switch it over to use somewhere else.

For charging an air tank, one could use this and an air hose.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Your Amazon link is bad.... you've got to remove the https or something like that with them. If I quote your message the links is {MEDIA=amazon]B01IJI04XW[/MEDIA], which doesn't show up right.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Your Amazon link is bad.... you've got to remove the https or something like that with them.

Still? I thought maybe it was fixed by now. I'll change it.

Edit: maybe @Shaggy or someone can help with these links? I don't have a problem with "https://" prefix links but others do.

 

[df2x4]

Your Amazon link is bad.... you've got to remove the https or something like that with them. If I quote your message the links is {MEDIA=amazon]B01IJI04XW[/MEDIA], which doesn't show up right.

Still? I thought maybe it was fixed by now. I'll change it.

Edit: maybe @Shaggy or someone can help with these links? I don't have a problem with "https://" prefix links but others do.

FWIW I think we've narrowed this down to ad blockers not playing well with the forum's new method of implementing Amazon links. For whatever reason the new forum software converts any Amazon link to an image of the product with a link embedded instead of a standard text link. Many ad blockers don't seem to like this and interpret it as an unwanted ad, so it gets omitted entirely in favor of a big blank space when the page loads. If you disable the ad blocker, the image with the link appears as normal. As 454cid pointed out, if you leave out the "https://" when you post an Amazon link, it will show up as a standard text link instead of the image link. I've been trying to make a habit of this just so everyone can see the link regardless of what browser/ad blocker combo they're running.

 

[someotherguy]

Those cheesy wing nut style drain valves that are such a pain in the ass to get to.. do yourself a favor and remove them. Install an elbow, pipe nipple, and a ball valve. Super cheap, easy, and makes it WAYYYYY easier to drain the tank - you'll find yourself far more likely to drain it if you make it convenient to do so.

Richard

 

[TechNova]

Those cheesy wing nut style drain valves that are such a pain in the ass to get to.. do yourself a favor and remove them. Install an elbow, pipe nipple, and a ball valve. Super cheap, easy, and makes it WAYYYYY easier to drain the tank - you'll find yourself far more likely to drain it if you make it convenient to do so.

Richard

I've always had this and bump the lever with my foot when I shut the compressor off.
drains the water every use without bending over

 

[thegawd]

whenever I dig out my small, I think its only a 7 gallons air compressor. I know it will be full of water and draining it is such a pain in the ass. the water that comes out will be nasty rust water. is there any way to protect the inside of the tank? can it be oiled? I'm definitely changing the valve to a stainless ball valve. I already have one on hand. with the tanks valve removed could I not put some oil in the tank and coat the inside? would that be a dumb idea?

what kind of oil do I need to service the compressor? I know I can go buy "compressor oil" but what is it? i guess that's what Google is for. Okay I'm back from google and heres what they say.... "You may use a synthetic or mineral oil in your air compressor and have it operate perfectly. You should avoid oils with a detergent additive, these are common in motor oils. So specify a non-detergent oil. In terms of viscosity, you'll want an SAE 30 or SAE 20 air compressor oil."

however I found this on hydraulic oil and I have quite a bit on hand. is there any reason why I shouldn't use hydraulic oil? "Hydraulic oil is similar to compressor oil in that it does not contain detergents. Any 20-weight or 30-weight hydraulic oil should make a good compressor oil alternative. ... Hydraulic oils tend to have some sealant compounds in them and work well for oiling, cooling, and preventing your compressor's internal rusting."

Iv been working on cleaning up my shop and I'm not quite to that corner yet.

good night all.

 

[someotherguy]

Oil in your compressor tank would be very, very bad in the event you ever wanted to paint anything using your compressor - and beyond that, is gonna be messy every time you use any tools. Yeah; you get *some* oil through air tools simply by properly oiling them, but now every air tool you use will constantly be spewing some degree of oil, and that includes blow gun, tire inflator, etc. I'd avoid the oil directly in the tank, but that's my opinion, certainly willing to listen to others.

Richard

 

[thegawd]

Richard, I know you are a pro and your opinion is enough for me. you make very valid points. thanks man! this is my first compressor. I changed the oil 10 years ago and I have had it for 12 I think. it still works great. I dont think I would use it for painting but in the event that I was going to I totally understand why it's a BAD idea. this is mainly used for inflating tires and an air nailer. I have a plethora of air tools that I never use. they are all essentially brand new and 12 years old.

I never thought about it rusting out from the inside and exploding though so Erik's PSA highlighted a problem that I never thought of.

hey thanks guys.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

very bad in the event you ever wanted to paint anything using your compressor

Or use a $hit load of fish eye eliminator JK

 

[someotherguy]

Or use a $hit load of fish eye eliminator JK

You could pour that directly in the tank, too!

Richard