Preparing To Drop My Engine Back In

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First post on here, but I have been lurking for awhile. I am in the process of rebuilding the 4.3 out of my ‘91 C1500 W/T with the 5- speed manual transmission. This truck has ZERO dollars in options, and was the only truck my grandfather bought brand new. I have a gasket kit already for the engine. I’ve already rebuilt the engine top to bottom, I work in a machine shop so that was the easy part.

I’m just looking to figure out what I need to do when I’m putting the engine back into my truck.

I’ve already gotten a brand new starter, alternator, water pump, belt tensioner, idler pulley, distributor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, upper and lower radiator hoses, serpentine belt, thermostat, oil pump, 0.030” oversized pistons, timing chain and camshaft gear, lifters, fan clutch, ARP main bolts, ARP rod bolts, ARP head bolts, rod bearings, main bearings, camshaft bearings, valve stem seals, power steering pump, power steering pulley, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, and radiator.
The heads had a valve job done, the heads were surfaced, the block was bored 0.030” because of excessive ring wear, the block was lightly surfaced to square the deck, the crankshaft was ground 0.040” on the rods (I spun a rod bearing) and the mains were ground 0.010” to clean them up, the rods were fully rebuilt (one was replaced), the whole engine was balanced within a gnats @$$ with the flywheel included, the flywheel was surfaced, and the camshaft was polished.

I’m trying to make sure that when I go to drop the engine back in that I will have everything I need. (Well, at least its a nice thought that I will have everything)

Any advice is greatly appreciated! This is the first engine I have pulled and will be the first engine I re-installed.
 
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Anything you would suggest doing (regarding replacing parts) with the engine and trans out of the truck? I am trying to tackle as many projects as I can that are easier with the engine bay empty.
 

Curt

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Aside from what SUBURBAN5 has mentioned, how's the steering tightness? Might want to replace the steering box while you have infinite amounts of space in the engine bay. Or look into the Jeep steering shaft upgrade to eliminate steering play: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/xj-s...8-94-trucks-95-instructions-on-page-31.12087/

Also just food for thought, but now would be a great time to throw some headers on the truck too!

EDIT: Just realized it's a '91 and there are no fuel injectors, removed that part.
 
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I have a fresh clutch, and have resurfaced the flywheel as well. The steering was not sloppy when I drove it last (which was a year and a half ago.) I have painted the frame with a rattle can to give it a better look, but the paint job is by no means a quality job. I have new motor mounts from energy suspension. I have new sensors for the engine, except for the knock sensor. I have new freeze plugs (steel) installed, and a block heater because I live in NE Indiana.

I want to completely freshen the front suspension as my next major project. That has to wait until I have put my truck back together and is running. I want to put the engine back together before I take that front suspension apart. I am making new ground straps for my truck, with 2 gage wire.
 

Schurkey

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Why do you have a timing chain and cam gear, but not a crank gear?

I couldn't get Energy Suspension Polyurethane mount inserts to fit--they're completely the wrong size. I hope you have better luck than I did.

What is the quench distance (Distance between top of piston and cylinder head)? Many cheap pistons have too little compression distance. The block probably needs to be "zero-decked" not merely "square decked". Then the head gasket thickness IS the quench distance. 0.035--0.040 is about perfect.

"Brand New" parts like starters and alternators are generally Communist Chinese junk. I'd rather have "good used" or "properly rebuild" Genuine GM than Brand New Communist Crap.
 
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Brownsburg, Indiana
Why do you have a timing chain and cam gear, but not a crank gear?

I couldn't get Energy Suspension Polyurethane mount inserts to fit--they're completely the wrong size. I hope you have better luck than I did.

What is the quench distance (Distance between top of piston and cylinder head)? Many cheap pistons have too little compression distance. The block probably needs to be "zero-decked" not merely "square decked". Then the head gasket thickness IS the quench distance. 0.035--0.040 is about perfect.

"Brand New" parts like starters and alternators are generally Communist Chinese junk. I'd rather have "good used" or "properly rebuild" Genuine GM than Brand New Communist Crap.

I did get a new crankshaft gear to go with my timing set that I bought through work. I believe it is a Melling timing set.
I will have to take a look at the Energy Suspension parts and see if they fit, I know I have to drill a rivet out, but haven’t looked too closely at them yet. Thanks for letting me know about that.
I had the guy at work that decked my block checked my pistons for the compression distance before he decked my block and he said that the pistons I had were right on spec. The pistons are 423NP pistons that are 0.030” oversized. ( I can’t remember the brand off the top of my head)
I know what you mean about the communist junk parts! I have either re-built or brand new parts by AC-Delco. I wasn’t going to be buying parts twice, so I bit the bullet and spent the extra money for AC-Delco parts.
 
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