Posi-lok

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DTrain

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Not sure this is the right to place to post this, but it felt right.

Also not sure if this has been touched on, but going for it anyhow.

Curious about Posi-lok 4x4 actuators. To replace the thermal POS units that came in the 88-00trucks.

I’d like to hear from folks who have history with them. How they like them and so on.

Also wondering opinions on the cable actuated ones vs. the perm-lok units.

Thanks,
D
 

Frank Enstein

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I have done the cable actuated one on Frank and I have sold them for over 25 years. They work perfectly. The perm lock is o.k. but increases drag because the differential is turning road speed all the time. They are fine for a trail rig with a selectable locker but I haven't recommended or sold one ever. It is cheaper but having the option of low range 2wd is pretty cool. I use that a bunch hooking up to trailers or slow/tight space driving. It is especially helpful because Frank (my dually) has an NV4500.
 

DTrain

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What happens with the electrical connector? Did you just tie it up out of the way or cap it? Does the 4wd shifter still light up when it’s in 4wd?
 

Ivan90

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ical connector? Did you just tie it up out of the way or cap it? Does the 4wd shifter still light up when it’
DTrain, I'm curious as well. My 4wd actuator finally gave out, so I'm thinking of installing posi-lok. This thread is a couple years old - did you install posi-lok and what was your experience?
 

BNielsen

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DTrain, I'm curious as well. My 4wd actuator finally gave out, so I'm thinking of installing posi-lok. This thread is a couple years old - did you install posi-lok and what was your experience?
I unhooked the pigtail for the actuator, wrapped it in loom and taped it up above the diff.
I like mine for what it is, I doubt I'll ever install another one. I only got the Posi-Lok because I had an electric actuator to swap in but it didn't work, and with it about to start snowing and needing 4WD I bought the kit and swapped it in.

I should've taken my time and documented it, the instructions are kind of vague. Maybe if I ever do another one I'll take tons of pics.

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And the reason the cotter pins are in that way it because I had to adjust the linkage a couple times and just haven't bothered to correct it. It still works fine.
Be warned, if you're going into a sticky situation, go ahead and engage the diff first. Then if you need it you can slam it in 4x4; I learned the first couple of times I got bogged up that the diff has to be at a certain angle gear wise for the damn thing to lock.
 

letitsnow

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I would recommend finding a way to mark the handle so that you know 100% when and that you have pulled the cable all of the way out to engage the front dif. I am pretty sure that I wrecked the front dif in my S10 from having mine pulled only part way out.

It makes me laugh that something sold with the name posi lok has no way to tell you positively that it is locked...
 

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