Popping noise when turning or braking 1998 c1500

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ethanmccll

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When coming to a stop, accelerating hard or turning left or right there is a loud popping noise that comes from underneath truck. Feels like it’s on the driver side, I’ve inspected ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms, greased entire front end, got new sway bar end links and cannot find the cause of the popping. It seems to come and go some days it will not pop at all and others it’ll pop every turn I take. The truck is lifted on 4” rc spindles and has 31’s. Any help would be appreciated
 

Schurkey

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Agree with what's been said already--control arm bushings, sway bar mounts/bushings, brake caliper mounts, wheel bearings.

How about shock bushings?

My '97 Plow truck makes popping noises over bumps. Friggin' cab mount on passenger rear is rusted-out; cab flexes downward and bumps against driveshaft. Worse with a passenger. REALLY bad with a fat passenger. I don't think I could drive it with someone in the extended-cab rear seat.
 

Feintmotion86

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I ran into something similar....if your problem is the same as mine, re-torque the lower control arm bolts to the chassis. The factory spec is something like 120-140 lb/ft of torque, which is hard to do without a lift. Anyhow, make sure the vehicle is at ride height and then torque, since the rubber bushing needs to be torqued from that height.
 

ethanmccll

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I know it’s been a while since I’ve last posted in this thread but I I’ve found the issue. It’s the upper control arm bushings that are bad and it’s causing the control arm to move back in forth in its bracket. Also probably why my suspension squeaks going over bumps and my camber is negative. Getting some mevotech stock replacements. I appreciate everyone’s help
 

Schurkey

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Polyurethane bushing are way easier for a D-I-Y installation. DON'T remove the outer shell of the old bushing. No press, no special tools aside from a propane torch to melt-out the old rubber insert.

Clean the original shell, grease and install the Poly insert and inner sleeve.

Beats hell out of removing the original outer shell, then pressing the new bonded-rubber bushing back in. As a bonus, you can torque the Poly bushings with the truck at any suspension position. Bonded rubber bushings MUST be torqued with the suspension at normal ride-height.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Polyurethane bushings are way easier

The only time I used polyurethane bushings it was for the 31mm front sway bar on an L-body 1991 Beretta. The d@mn things would squeak unless kept regularly lubricated. PITA. I didn't leave them in long.

Are they better these days?

I liked that car. 3.1L 6cyl was torquey and the 3spd auto w/TCC worked well with that engine. Ran 16.3s in the 1/4mi. It had its problems but it was fun to drive.
 
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