planning on painting my truck myself.... need advise plz....

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daemeon2

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bear with me.., this may be a long post.... :beatdeadhorse5:

first off..., I am new at painting an entire vehicle...
2/nd.., not new at painting parts of a vehicle.... used to do air-brush work on alot of things, did several bodywork jobs, and customizing underhood areas or vehicles with graphics or materials...
(I got OCD and hell-fire determination.. If It can be done.., Either I or someone else will do it)

with that stated.., this is what I have gotten as for supplies...
(all coating are acrylic urethane unless stated otherwise... Also all have mid temp hardeners and correct reducers for each one.)

[Paints]
epoxy primer - 2k urethane (black) (gallon)
2k primer urethane high build (grey)(gallon)
urethane high gloss black basecoat (basic main color of truck)(gallon)
urethane chrome yellow mettalic basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane Fire red pearl mettalic basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane Firemist Orange mettalic basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane Firemist Pearl White mettalic basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane mettalic Silver basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane midnight mettalic blue basecoat(flames)(quart)
urethane Intercoat Clear(flames)(gallon) (got gold and black pearl flakes to mix in it)
urethane Europeon Deep High Gloss Clear Coat- Gallon

[Tools and supplies..]
Evercoat metal to metal filler
evercoat rage extreme filler
box of 50 putty speaders 4" and other sizes too
onion mixing board
air powered paint shaker
2 sets of durablock sanding blocks
6" da sander
12" longboard sander
Various rolls of grits of sandpaper for da and blocks
Titan Vaper 4-gun set with the 3M PPS setups of mini thru to the large size cups,lids, etc..
A new shop with 5HP 60 gallon compressor - (gonna use it -only- for the bodywork part)
Air filters and dryer system devbliss 4-stage
tons of other crap too - dent removers, hammers, dollies, etc... (been planning this for over 5 years and to make this a lifetime deal when I retire...)

The truck is my other baby...( I got several - my chevy addiction )

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I have severely modified her to make her ride correctly and Now it's time for a new outlook for her...
shes got surface rust in areas., clear is peeling, and a few dents..., but she paid for and she is mine.

What I somewhat want her to look like..
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But where the flames fade to black.., I am going to touch in/ airbrush in real flames with a fade-into the black... similar to this...

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Thoughts an Ideas are welcome on a better way to accomplish this massive feat...

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[MY PLAN]
remove fenders, inner fenders, hood, bed, doors and separate them to stands to make it easy to repair/paint
clean rust from frame if possible and do a chassis satin black kit to it...
paint strip everything down to metal..
fix all dents and rust issues.. if rust bad, cut out and weld & replace
scuff it up with 80 and then up to 220...
epoxy primer 2 coats
primer it 2 coats..
block it 220 up to 400
check for levelness with guide coat
reprime if necessary...
sealer coat.. block to 600
lay out gloss black 2 coats
wet sand 800 grit
use sticky masking paper to create the flames (all twisties and loopers)
color in flames
intercoat all pieces with clear flake paint
add final airbrush graphics to tailgate and underhood areas
wet sand with 800 lightly...
clear coat everything with high gloss till I get a good 3-4 coats
wet sand with 2000
buff and polish the entire truck....

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My questions are as follows:

1) When doing the flames.., should I intercoat each color or just intercoat after the all color flame deal? My plan was to intercoat after the all flame paint deal...
2) Looking for ideas for a 12X20 Paint booth... not permanent.. just a temp I can set up in front of my shop for only the purpose of painting what is needed...
3) A cheap but doable setup for venting in the paint booth...
4) I live 20 miles from the nearest town... is it illegal to vent the fumes outdoors ?

As stated above.., IF you know of a better way in my plans to accomplish this feat.., please by all means tell me.... And before you say carry it to a paint and body shop..., no one near my area can do flames or even two-tone paint jobs - period. There are 4 shops in town, and all say no freaking way they would even think of taking in the job UNLESS I want to paint it bad the same dull red color.. THEN and only then will they do the job.

If I missed some steps.., please let me know....
If I still need more things to accomplish this feat.., please tell me that too...

I gotta learn the deal correctly one way or the other..., I got too much money involved in this deal to stop now...

thanks for your time in reading and any ideas or help is much appreciated....

Signed,
Allen (Owner Ace's Automotive)
 

inthechateau

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I see no one has piped in yet so I'll give you MHO. Great Goose you got a job to do there. I've never taken one apart to paint before but not wrong for doing it that way, you may have a few matching issues not shooting all panels at once though. Venting vapors to the atmosphere is an EPA issue. check your local ordinances to see if your local environmental office has any restrictions. The EPA says under new Rul 6H:
Checklist for Compliance

According to the EPA, fewer than 25 percent of existing repairers will have to take action on rule 6H. The EPA has provided an equipment checklist for shops that aren’t yet in compliance:
• Filter technology must be installed and operated on all spray booths.
• Spray booths must be fully enclosed and ventilated at negative pressure.
• The spray booth must capture 98 percent of hazardous emissions.
• Booths that have seals on all doors and other openings and have an automatic pressure balancing system must be ventilated up to 0.05 inches water gauge positive pressure.
• Spray booths used to coat miscellaneous parts must have a full roof, three complete walls or side curtains, and be ventilated so air is drawn into the booth.
• Spray coatings must be applied with a high volume, low-pressure spray gun, electrostatic application, or an airless or air-assisted airless spray gun.
• Paint spray gun cleaning to prevent atomization of hazardous materials to the air is required.

I used to do small patch spray jobs out side when the shop was full. I'm not in the business anymore but if you do a temp spray booth and install a ventilator of some kind do your self a favor and filter it. Use a HVLP gun and you will have even less problems. The odor of the vapor will travel for miles believe it or not and who want to smell that anyhow.
Good luck with the projject and post pics when done.
 

lester622

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If your trying to do the real fire flames they are done with a white base and kandy colors. You can finish sanding it anywhere between 320-600 anything more and the paint will peel eventually. After you blocked it to where you want and its finished don't seal it until your ready to paint it. When you start painting seal it then paint on top of that.

You are including a bunch of unneeded steps after its sealed. Paint has 12 hours before it needs to be sanded to paint on top off. Once you put on the base let it sit about an hour or 2 depending on temp and it should be good to tape on top of.

For a paint booth if you have a garage, blow it out and clean it good cover everything you don't want overspray on or hang up painters plastic from home depot up as temporary walls. Wet the floor and set a fan up under the garage door blowing out and put plastic to block the opening except don't cover the fan. Google homemade spray booth you will get some ideas.
 

deej-79

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I saw someone make a booth out of pvc pipe and connectors then taped plastic on the close it in. I didnt see the end result though.
 
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