Pitman arm questions

Discussion in 'Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits' started by _nickjoseph, May 28, 2020.

  1. Aparke4

    Aparke4 OBS Enthusiast

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    All of the tips posted are crucial! The 4x4 chassis is kinda a pain with x-member right in the way... mine was close to stock (on there for 200k miles?) and it took heat, pb blaster and lots of strategic side hits to break loose. Be careful with heat and rubber seal at bottom of box. I installed a slight amount of anti seize on shaft as I need to replace my box this year and it should come off easier... or might order new arm for the new box and keep slightly used one as a spare and remove at my leisure haha.

    For idler arm and pitman arm I went with pro-forged brand via Rock Auto. So far all products from this line have been quality.
     
  2. tinfoil_hat

    tinfoil_hat I'm Awesome

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    You still aren't going to get a socket on that nut. It is too close to the frame.
     
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  3. alpinecrick

    alpinecrick I'm Awesome

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    I was going to mention that--there's not much more than an inch clearance between the bottom of the output shaft and cross member.

    More so, I have installed or helped in the installation of pitman arms on two GMT400's and two GMT800 4wd's in recent times. The Moog pitman arms were stupidly tight to get on the shafts, taking everything the Snap On or Mac 1/2" impacts had to drive them on there. I sure wouldn't have wanted to be laying on my back trying to install those arms. Those Moog arms were so tight installing the nut was practically superfluous.......

    This is also the chance to clean up any rust on the frame behind the steering gear and squirt some rust reformer on the frame channel. When I am removing parts some times I spend more time cleaning and painting parts than removal and installlation:rolleyes:
     
  4. Blake.

    Blake. Newbie

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    I just did mine with a wrench. I did it with hand tools bc I did it in my driveway.
    I did the pitman arm. Idler arm, idler bracket, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, hubs, brake pads all at the same time. Maybe a couple other things I can't remember. So it all runs together. It was an awful weekend and I hurt for like 3 days after haha
     
  5. Wilecoyote

    Wilecoyote I'm Awesome

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    I popped the nut off the pitman w a milwaukie 1/2" cordless impact w the gearbox unbolted, I did spray the nut w PBlaster 2 times /2 days before trying to remove it.Had to buy a $28 33mm deep socket I found at an industrial tool supplier.After it was removed I could not find a puller that would fit between the arm and the snout on the box.I did not want to use a fork. Their was some leakage from the snout and the joint was pretty tight after I took it out of the center link so I just put it back together.My 98 has about 120K. The bushings are dry rotted and the ball joints need replacing,I don't think they were greased enough. I've almost got all the parts to rebuild the front suspension, just need the tie rods,lower bushings/ ball joints.I imagine it will make a big difference in my steering as as it sits now,It can't be aligned to spec/camber and eating the outsides of the front tires. I hope I can wait years to replace the pitman and replace the gear at the same time.

    20200601_231909.jpg 20200601_231759.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
  6. tinfoil_hat

    tinfoil_hat I'm Awesome

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    I found a socket like that at O'Reilly. I think I bought the puller on Amazon.
    Like you, I am collecting parts to overhaul the front end all at once. The steering gear and pitman are done, the rest I hope to do this month. I bought the ball joint press from HF and it seems like a decent tool. I have used it already to do my U joints so it has already paid for itself.
     
  7. tinfoil_hat

    tinfoil_hat I'm Awesome

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  8. Pinger

    Pinger I'm Awesome

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    Apologies - I never realised the 4WDs were so awkward compared to a 2WD (which I have).
     
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  9. alpinecrick

    alpinecrick I'm Awesome

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    I didn't realize your Suburban was 2wd.......
     
  10. Pinger

    Pinger I'm Awesome

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    Yep, a C. Which suits me fine as for tarmac use only and I'm on a quest for simplicity. Six fewer UJ/CV joints to go bad and much easier access to other things too. Not to mention the transfer box and front diff.
     
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