PITA Np246

[b454rat]

I got a good deal on a 99 Yukon that seller claimed had a bad trans. As it turned out, the trans is fine, the t-case was stuck in neutral. I've only have one of these trucks with this case, and even back then I hated it. But I'm trying to keep this a simple build, even tho I don't plan on doing anything to it, other than to get it on the road and dependable. I checked the fuses, all good. There are no lights on the buttons for the t-case. Once they did come on, for bout a second. I got another button assembly, no difference. When the key is on, whether running or not, there is a constant relay clicking from under the dash where the wiring from the engine compartment. I thought maybe the axle actuator might have something to do with it, so swapped for a known good one, and when snugging it up the threads snapped off. F'n great. Got it out, then noticed the original actuator had no plunger it in. The actuator is easy enough, but the motor on the t-case is a royal pain to get off. At least for mine, had to drop the driver side exhaust enough to get the driveshaft out, to get to one dam bolt holding the motor on.

So before I get pissed and rip the front end out and SAS it with a 241, what else do I need to check?

 

[stutaeng]

The actuator is the same thing as the encoder? I've got a project 04 SUV that has this TCase. Mine is just stuck in 2wd.

I believe on mine is the encoder motor( actuator?), not sure through.

I thought I would rebuild mine or swap in a manual TCase.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

You dont have the patience for this. Take it someone who does.

I put an encoder motor in my '99 Jimmy. Not very much room, but the driveshaft came out.
Same with my '00 Denali. Remove the oil filter and unbolt the u-joint. Collapse the slip shaft and pry the shaft out of the t-case. There is absolutely no need to disconnect the exhaust.

And have a beer while you're at it.

 

[b454rat]

It has a new pipes from manifolds to cats, maybe why had to move it…..

 

[stutaeng]

Yeah, same experience with mine. Remove the little straps on the yoke and pop out the driveshaft. Encoder motor just has like 3 bolts and comes out pretty easy.

My wires were severed on the motor, I thought that was the issue on mine. Spliced the wires back together but still no dice.

That TCase is actually kinda cool with the AutoTrac and the clutchpack. IIRC it's the same clutches as some regular Dodge transmission clutches.

 

[b454rat]

Since i don't have enough time to get to junkyards anymore, and not gonna be throwing money at it if I don't know for sure if its gonna fix it, Im strongly considering SAS's it, using the 2000 CCSB that's already SAS'd. That is a long term project anyways, plus I have 2 other Dana 44s to use, along with another complete SAS kit and crossover. Pretty much just be using the axle since it's already rebuilt. I have a van 14ff with 4.10s to match the front. Just need to get a 241 t-case which shouldnt be a problem. For now, might just get it running right (slight miss), make sure everything else is ok. Why I hate modern vehicles with all this electronic BS on em....

 

[DonYukon]

So what you can do is Find which selection of the encoder motor gives you 2WD . sometimes when these encoder motors fail they revert to the Neutral gear position. Not all the time but sometimes . this is because the TCCM (transfer case control module) needs a signal from the encoder motor to know what gear its in. Once you know its in 2wd Pull the encoder motor and leave it plugged in . ziptie it to the frame and drive. Had to do this on the side of a mountain in PA offroading one time. I dont know the longterm effects of this as I replaced the EM the same week.

 

[b454rat]

I basically did that. I took it off, not knowing what direction was what gear, I put it in low at first. Excited, drive it around the yard, showed the wife n daughter, since I had my daughter help with diagnosing it. Net day I put it in 2wd, drove it up n down the road. I then went underneath to see if anything would make noise while hitting the buttons. Nada. Then got thinking bout the actuator, and when pulled it out had no plunger. It’s not a huge deal but I’m wondering if the PO new something was F’d with the 4wd n just said the trans was toast. Kinda hard to have 4wd if the plunger is missing. Also, could be coincidence but the SEL was on but bulb was burnt out. It has a bad plug wire n gets engine misfire n something for O2 sensor. Wondered if they just covered **** up…again no big deal, got a good deal on it so not complaining…

 

[Andrews98]

I got a good deal on a 99 Yukon that seller claimed had a bad trans. As it turned out, the trans is fine, the t-case was stuck in neutral. I've only have one of these trucks with this case, and even back then I hated it. But I'm trying to keep this a simple build, even tho I don't plan on doing anything to it, other than to get it on the road and dependable. I checked the fuses, all good. There are no lights on the buttons for the t-case. Once they did come on, for bout a second. I got another button assembly, no difference. When the key is on, whether running or not, there is a constant relay clicking from under the dash where the wiring from the engine compartment. I thought maybe the axle actuator might have something to do with it, so swapped for a known good one, and when snugging it up the threads snapped off. F'n great. Got it out, then noticed the original actuator had no plunger it in. The actuator is easy enough, but the motor on the t-case is a royal pain to get off. At least for mine, had to drop the driver side exhaust enough to get the driveshaft out, to get to one dam bolt holding the motor on.

So before I get pissed and rip the front end out and SAS it with a 241, what else do I need to check?

That clicking your hearing may be from TCCM. Its right above the park brake pedal. I have a 98 2 door tahoe that was having the same clicking sound. Is your "Service 4WD" light on?

 

[b454rat]

Wow old thread lol. I pulled the fuse so no more light, n don’t get it in enough to see if there’s still clicking or not. I got a 241, need to wire for 4 low, front shaft n should be fine. Gonna SAS it still, got a 60 for the other truck so that 44 will go in this. Got a 60 rear with a Detroit, just need time….