PG Powergo headers

[Direwolf]

Howdy all. Did an exhaust leak test on my 90 K1500 4x4 5.7 and found multiple leaks everywhere. Talked to a few shops and from the ballpark estimates, I’ve decided to do it myself.

Ordered a set of those PG Powergo short headers from AMZ. Supposedly they will bolt up to the OE collector flanges. Plan is to order a new OE style Walker Y-pipe, a high flow cat, and Flowmaster 40 kit.

Sizing on most of the parts seems to vary that I’ve seen. 2-1/2” or 3”. Just want compatible parts with the least amount of cut and paste.

Any advise is appreciated.

 

[Schurkey]

1. This is the first I've ever heard of PG Powergo, and AMZ. I have no opinion of them except to tell you to find out where they're made. If they're cheap Chinese imports, be damn sure they can be returned if they're defective or don't fit properly.

2. Don't use an "OE" style Y-pipe. The OE pipe is known to be a significant restriction where the two pipes join. The JBA Y-pipe may/may not fit your headers--they specify that it's for use with their shorty headers JBA-1830.
www.summitracing.com/parts/JBA-2831SY

JBA Performance Exhaust 2831SY JBA Performance Exhaust Y-Pipes | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - JBA Performance Exhaust Y-Pipes with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Exhaust Pipes, Y-Pipes at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

3. High-flow catalyst is a good idea.

4. That "40-series" muffler kit is going to be loud. Flowmaster spends a lot of money on advertising, which gets a lot of publicity in magazines. But they don't "flow" all that well, and they're known to rust.

5. The OEM exhaust was stainless steel. Most but not all aftermarket systems are crappy "aluminized (mild) steel". Aluminized is better than bare, but don't expect it to go more than eight or ten years, and maybe less.

Flowmaster aluminized mild-steel exhaust system (Force II, if I remember correctly) from my '88 K1500. It'd been perforated for a few years, and lovingly ignored until I just couldn't take it any more.

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[Direwolf]

I appreciate the advice. Looking into the JBA pipe, will be ordering that.

 

[Direwolf]

1. This is the first I've ever heard of PG Powergo, and AMZ. I have no opinion of them except to tell you to find out where they're made. If they're cheap Chinese imports, be damn sure they can be returned if they're defective or don't fit properly.

2. Don't use an "OE" style Y-pipe. The OE pipe is known to be a significant restriction where the two pipes join. The JBA Y-pipe may/may not fit your headers--they specify that it's for use with their shorty headers JBA-1830.
www.summitracing.com/parts/JBA-2831SY

JBA Performance Exhaust 2831SY JBA Performance Exhaust Y-Pipes | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - JBA Performance Exhaust Y-Pipes with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Exhaust Pipes, Y-Pipes at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

3. High-flow catalyst is a good idea.

4. That "40-series" muffler kit is going to be loud. Flowmaster spends a lot of money on advertising, which gets a lot of publicity in magazines. But they don't "flow" all that well, and they're known to rust.

5. The OEM exhaust was stainless steel. Most but not all aftermarket systems are crappy "aluminized (mild) steel". Aluminized is better than bare, but don't expect it to go more than eight or ten years, and maybe less.

Flowmaster aluminized mild-steel exhaust system (Force II, if I remember correctly) from my '88 K1500. It'd been perforated for a few years, and lovingly ignored until I just couldn't take it any more.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Took your advice and got the JBA pipe.
I checked the fit against the headers and the flanges mate up to the headers as far as the bolt holes. But there is decent size gap between the ball socket flange and the exhaust flange. (bear in mind I’m not an exhaust guy.)

I’ll attach pics of the headers I picked up. They seem pretty decent, with good welds and manifold surfaces. (Thick

 

[Direwolf]

Took your advice and got the JBA pipe.
I checked the fit against the headers and the flanges mate up to the headers as far as the bolt holes. But there is decent size gap between the ball socket flange and the exhaust flange. (bear in mind I’m not an exhaust guy.)

I’ll attach pics of the headers I picked up. They seem pretty decent, with good welds and manifold surfaces. (Thick

Not sure why the rest got cut off…
Just asking if this is normal for the ball style flange.

 

[Schurkey]

I think the end of the "collector" on the headers is larger than the flange on the Y-pipe; (i.e., it's intended for a bigger-diameter Y-pipe) it's not ideal but it looks to me like it should seal if you're careful about tightening the three bolts on each flange equally.

 

[Direwolf]

I think the end of the "collector" on the headers is larger than the flange on the Y-pipe; (i.e., it's intended for a bigger-diameter Y-pipe) it's not ideal but it looks to me like it should seal if you're careful about tightening the three bolts on each flange equally.

Ok, I should be able to make that work.
Two additional questions… should I use a donut gasket on the collector flanges?
Also the manifold flange plates are about 7/16” thick. If I go with the ARP bolts, I want to get the proper length… any thoughts?

 

[Schurkey]

should I use a donut gasket on the collector flanges?

No. The rounded-metal end of the "collector" takes the place of the donut gasket.

Also the manifold flange plates are about 7/16” thick. If I go with the ARP bolts, I want to get the proper length… any thoughts?

7/16 + washer thickness (if used) + gasket thickness + thread engagement (not less than 3/8"). Depending on how deep the threads are in the head, you could go longer, which would be nice so long as the bolts don't bottom. Don't go shorter.

 

[boostedpontiac]

Good call on the Flowmaster 40 series. Im doing the same on my truck and it was the best sounding muffler i could find.

 

[Direwolf]

No. The rounded-metal end of the "collector" takes the place of the donut gasket.


7/16 + washer thickness (if used) + gasket thickness + thread engagement (not less than 3/8"). Depending on how deep the threads are in the head, you could go longer, which would be nice so long as the bolts don't bottom. Don't go shorter.

Thank you again!