Perfection Clutch Master cylinder upgrade

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shelbyt.67

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Hello all. I have a 92 Z71 K1500 ECSB. Just replaced my clutch master cylinder. Hope this helps any who need this. I know most think AC Delco is the cats meow when it comes to replacement parts, but I march to a different drum. The Stock oem clutch cylinders are plastic. As you can see this can lead to problems. The stock attachment point has broken, allowing the fluid line to literally fall out.
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I found a much better aftermarket replacement at advance auto. Perfection clutch TECHnovation clutch master cylinder part # 350042. This cylinder is made from milled aluminium. NO PLASTIC. and its cheaper! 50 bucks vs 60-80!
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Ok, removing the old cylinder is super easy. Just remove the two bolts at the firewall and pull off.
You will need to remove the backing plate in the firewall for this particular part to fit. Remove the clip and washer on the old plunger rod and pry the plate out with a screwdriver.
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Remove the plunger rod from the pedal by just pulling it off by hand or with a flathead screwdriver. Replace it with the new one provided with the new cylinder by pushing it on. Easy.
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Now push on the new cylinder and replace and tighten the bolts. The new plunger fits into and snaplocks into the back of the cylinder. No clips. Now place the rubber washer onto the fluid line and Push the line all the way up into the bottom port, it may kinda click a little bit. Insert the locking pin and push in with a pair of channelock pliers. Insert the cotter pin and bend it around the port. Pull on the line firmly to see if its properly locked in.
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Now fill the cylinder with dot3 brake fluid and pump the clutch pedal several times. This "Bench bleeds" the cylinder. Now for the messy part. I have tried the standard way of bleeding the clutch system and it has never worked for me. There has always been residual air in the system.
To properly bleed the system I do it from the bottom. I use a $5 fluid pump from Harbor Fright, but any hand pump will do.
Remove the bleed screw entirely from the slave cylinder with an allen wrench and attach the output hose to the bleed port. Be sure to push the hose all the way up so the bleed hole is covered.
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Push the intake hose into a large brake fluid container. Have plenty of towels ready both under the master and slave cylinders. Make sure the cap is off of the master.
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Slowly pump fluid into the line. You will hear the air bubbling out of the master. Continue until no more air comes out. There will be spillage coming out of the master. Now the REALLY FUN part. Have the bleed screw and the allen wrench ready to go! Remove the output hose and QUICKLY replace the bleed screw. You will get fluid all over you and your tools. Don't worry about it. Tighten the screw down and refill the master. Replace the cap and pump the clutch pedal until you feel solid resistance. Make sure the parking brake is engaged and you are in Neutral. Start the engine and continue pumping. Shift from 1st into reverse until it becomes smooth. If you got all the air out it should firm up and smooth out fairly quickly. Check for any leaks and clean up! Finito!
 
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shelbyt.67

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Not that I know of. If its too stiff like mine, its in the clutch assembly. I'm also going to change the slave cylinder with the same brand. Mine hasn't failed yet but why wait for disaster.
 

Aloicious

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Nice! I use a '92 master with my T56 swap, and I never liked it being plastic, I'll have to try the aluminum one when I need to change it, Thanks!
 

eric.s.t

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Man, im happy i found this! Im putting in my t56 this summer and i finally got most of my parts to do it. Seeing that this look alot stronger, this is what ill be doing! Great write up, repped!
 
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