Passive Crossover Signal Mesh / Impedance

[Wildblue19]

Hello all,
I'm installing Q forms kick panels with a component 6.5/tweeter set that comes with a passive crossover. The crossover has the amp input and woofer/tweeter outputs. I would like to wire in the front 4 ohm 4x6 in series with the kick panel speakers, and have the 4x6 recieve full range signal via a splice between both the woofer and tweeter lines. Is this diagram valid?

My concerns are with the high and low signals being combined and mixing in a strange way, creating a notch filter due to the crossover curves. I am also unsure if the impedance will be 8 ohm or 2...

I understand the speakers could be wired in parallel creating a 2 ohm system; however that will over power them with my amp providing 220W rms @ 2 ohms.

I can clarify more if I'm missing pertinent info, still fairly new to car audio. Thanks!

 

[Schurkey]

I don't know how you're going to get any sound from the full-range speaker, since both sides are wired to the negative cables. There's no voltage to drive 'em.

The amp does not "provide 220 watts RMS into 2 ohms" unless the volume knob is cranked-up. Wire the full-range in parallel with the 2-way's crossover. Don't be a menace with the Eviction Control Knob.

A 2-ohm system will need real speaker wire, the amperage is going to be four times what an 8-ohm speaker would draw. That said...what's the most music power those things will accept long-term? 30 watts each? "220" watts from the amplifier would be 110 watts into each of the speaker systems; and that'd probably launch the cones into orbit, or fry the voice coils.

 

[MrPink]

@Wh4t3v3rs i think you need to chime in on this

 

[Wh4t3v3rs]

1st..Put your 4x6 on the stereo power and put your amp on your kick panels.
2nd.. you can't change the ohms on the output side of the passive crossover, or you will change the frequency the speaker is crossovered at.
3rd..thats not how you searies speakers

 

[Wildblue19]

I don't know how you're going to get any sound from the full-range speaker, since both sides are wired to the negative cables. There's no voltage to drive 'em.

Thanks. I forgot to erase the lines for the grounds off of the woofer and tweeter going into to crossover block, obviously the negative sides of those two would go straight into the full range to drive them.

The amp does not "provide 220 watts RMS into 2 ohms" unless the volume knob is cranked-up. Wire the full-range in parallel with the 2-way's crossover. Don't be a menace with the Eviction Control Knob.

Understood, I am still new at car audio and was under the impression that over powering the voice coils would be a bad thing, but the power output of the amp makes sense being scaled with the volume knob.

...what's the most music power those things will accept long-term? 30 watts each? "220" watts from the amplifier would be 110 watts into each of the speaker systems; and that'd probably launch the cones into orbit, or fry the voice coils.

The two component system is rated at 90W RMS per side and the amp outputs 110W, per channel, at 4 ohm. The front 4x6 is rated for 50W RMS. I had hoped to series these to keep them on the safe side of the power range supplied.

2nd.. you can't change the ohms on the output side of the passive crossover, or you will change the frequency the speaker is crossovered at.

This was the biggest factor I had overlooked, and is why I decided to keep the 4x6's on the head unit. Would have totally screwed up the designed crossover freq if I wired it as I initially posted.

Thanks for the knowledge gents.

 

[Ehall8702]

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That's the answer ALONG with an upgraded 4x6 plate to 4" adapter and a matching 4" mid to go in it...it'll add alot of sound up where it needs to be, doors and kick pods are low and need to be over amplified to get sound up ..or processimg nd that's fake sounding to me.

 

[Ehall8702]

And 110 watts to a 90watt RMS speaker is fine IF it's clean power and signal. I've used my oscilloscope for over 20 years to set amps properly, just recently got a and dd1 and cc1 and it's super easy now. I over power each of my 3 15s by almost 800 watts daily and over power my doors by about 150 per door ( have 4 speakers in each door, and each door gets almost 500 watts). Been like that for years now, just have to set gains properly, it's not a volume dial ! Lol

 

[Hamps]

I would be more worried sending a full range signal to the 4x6 plates than the power driving them honestly. I would consider the plates to be more for fill and to bring the soundstage up in my opinion. That really doesn't answer your question but may be something other to think about. A good quality component will give you plenty of frequency range without the addition of other speakers.
More is not always better and speaker placement is key.

 

[Ehall8702]

I would be more worried sending a full range signal to the 4x6 plates than the power driving them honestly. I would consider the plates to be more for fill and to bring the soundstage up in my opinion. That really doesn't answer your question but may be something other to think about. A good quality component will give you plenty of frequency range without the addition of other speakers.
More is not always better and speaker placement is key.

I he used the 3 way xovers I linked the dash 4" plate would be dedicated midrange which is perfect for a 4" this is what I did in my buddies jeep, 6.5 in each door 4" in factory dash location and tweeter in pillars on same 3 way xovers all Infinity. That's the ONLY setup I've ever done that sounds amazing on completely FLAT EQ, no adjustment needed there. I run too much power for a setup like that but his sq is amazing.