Passenger brake dragging

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AuroraGirl

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not relevant to your brake issue but this was funny, wonder if your truck had this done by the dealer back in under first owner
You must be registered for see images attach

(TSB is for a incorrect ECM and calpack/memcal/prom installation)
 

aaronswink

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not relevant to your brake issue but this was funny, wonder if your truck had this done by the dealer back in under first owner
You must be registered for see images attach

(TSB is for a incorrect ECM and calpack/memcal/prom installation)
What does that mean because my truck has a built in shift light and has auto prnd but factory pedals and clutch slave. Always wondered why it had that at bottom
 

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aaronswink

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passenger side? Id say your hose, your banjo bolt, rust in the system, or the caliper lube/hardware fitment are most at play. I suppose it could be something upstream but that seems like it would affect more than just than front right. I would say go over your work and verify your hardware and service. Using a petrolum grease on the slide pins is a good way to accidently seize rubber boots(if those calipers have that)
You got it, the pin has a dimple in it! Keeping it from sliding correctly!
 

Caman96

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4L70-E Super Duty Transmission.
RPO MM5
 

Schurkey

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Put the 1.25 width rotors, new pads, new calipers both sides on the front. 2002 suburban master cylinder
WHICH "new calipers"???

If the calipers are for the original-to-the-truck brakes, or even the upgraded JB5 or JB6 brakes like the rotors, they're Low-Drag calipers and NOT DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THAT MASTER CYLINDER.

If they're the JB7 calipers, they're not "Low-Drag", and you could be OK.

Mostly, the newer-design master cylinder is bad advice from people who didn't know any better; and it's repeated endlessly on this forum by other folks who don't know any better. IF (big IF) it "crutches" a problem at all, it's because there was an underlying fault that was never identified, and therefore probably has not been corrected.

You didn't mention whether this was a 2WD or 4WD, but since I count only 5 lug nuts per wheel in the photo of your truck, I'm figuring it's a 2WD. The 4WD need different hubs/wheel bearings to work with the wider rotors, but I guess the 2WD don't, since the rotor and bearing assembly are together.

now every time I hit the brakes the passenger side caliper holds and won’t release all the way. Could this be because of master or am I missing something?? Please help if you can
Can't be the master cylinder, or both front brakes would "hold".

MIGHT be the combination valve, MIGHT be the ABS, MIGHT be a partially-crimped brake tube--but most likely is the caliper or brake hose.

Just checked and you have JB3 brakes. Understand why you were looking to upgrade.
JN3/JB3 were the weakest power-assisted brakes installed on a GMT400-series vehicle. (JN1 had the same components, but without the power booster.)

Upgrading to the wider, 1.25 rotors from the JN5/6 or JB5/6 by themselves isn't much of a change. The real difference is in the calipers which have a substantially-larger piston for more clamping force on the pads. To go along with the calipers, the JN/JB 5/6 master cylinder needs to be installed, as it has a greater bore diameter than the JN/JB3; and is still compatible with the "Low Drag" calipers because it has the third, larger chamber to provide a high-volume, low-pressure "gush" of brake fluid. The newer master cylinders don't have that third chamber, they just have a huge bore with only two chambers--dangerous if the booster fails.

AND, to go along with the bigger caliper pistons which require a bigger Quick Take-Up master cylinder bore, the brake booster is larger also.

When you get the wider rotors, bigger caliper pistons, bigger QTU master cylinder, and bigger booster, you've essentially converted your truck from JB3 to JB5 brakes.

When you shitcan the pathetic 254mm (10") Leading-Trailing drum brakes in favor of the 11.x" Duo-Servo drums, you'll have the equivalent of JB6 brakes.

As far as I'm concerned, JN/JB6 is the minimum of what these vehicles should have come with as standard equipment. Heavier trucks may need the "7" "8" or JF9 brakes, probably with hydroboost.

I found the rear brakes to be a bigger improvement than the fronts. But tougher to do on a 2WD than on a 4WD due to the 5-lug axle shafts and wheels.
 
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Schurkey

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when I hit brakes it dives left,
Pulling left when braking means the left caliper is working well--but the right side is weak.

Combined with having the right-side caliper "hold" when you release the brakes, is a strong indication of either a seized caliper or caliper piston on the right side; or a significant but not total blockage of the hydraulic system for the right side.
 

Caman96

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When you shitcan the pathetic 254mm (10") Leading-Trailing drum brakes in favor of the 11.x" Duo-Servo drums, you'll have the equivalent of JB6 brakes.
I’m looking for the right one constantly! I have a line on a 14 bolt 9.5 6 lug in really good shape for $200, but it’s 3.73. I may still grab it and just re-gear it to 3.42.
 

Schurkey

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I have a line on a 14 bolt 9.5 6 lug in really good shape for $200, but it’s 3.73. I may still grab it and just re-gear it to 3.42.
I spent about two years looking for a 3.42-geared 14-bolt six-lug axle. Had to travel 750-ish miles round-trip to get it.

$300 plus gasoline, plus fixing the brakes that the previous owner screwed-up.

OTOH, it had the G80 locking differential.
 

aaronswink

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Pulling left when braking means the left caliper is working well--but the right side is weak.

Combined with having the right-side caliper "hold" when you release the brakes, is a strong indication of either a seized caliper or caliper piston on the right side; or a significant but not total blockage of the hydraulic system for the right side.
The sleeve that rides on the pins had dimples which didn’t allow them to slide freely, swapped out for old pins and works perfect!
 
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