Parasitic drain

[east302]

Yeah, the luxury part is probably not applicable...and I’m struggling to think of what RPO code that may have represented. They didn’t bring the Denali out until 99, so not sure what it would have meant.

Best guess is that there’s a damaged wire somewhere between that connector and the fuse.

Without the luxury package, C210 shouldn’t be on that circuit...but hey, it’s definitely worth a shot. If it solves it, it is fed directly from the fuse according to the diagram.

 

[east302]

Went and looked at my 98 K1500. I was thinking C210 was this one above the letters GRY.

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But the diagram shows it to be cavities D1 through D6, with circuit 240 not even connected to it.

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Looking at the transfer case schematic, this is C210 but A/D1 is for circuit 1695 going to fuse #14. If your 97 is like my 98, this doesn’t look to be on fuse #9.

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[RawbDidIt]

Ok, so I need to trace the wire from fuse 9 to it's next destination. It should be just the brown wire, and should go straight to the headlight switch. There may be an orange wire as well, if so, that should wind up at the convenience center, or the transfer case? I'm guessing it doesn't, the only illumination for the transfer case switch comes off of circuit 14 supplied by a gray wire. I think the illumination for the old floor style transfer case might have been different, but there's no wire from circuit 9 going anywhere in the dash illumination circuit, unless I'm misunderstanding what lighting would be associated with the transfer case.

Diagnosis would be measuring current from fuse to headlight switch, should be zero, current from fuse to switch harness should be 250-300 mA. If the draw is between the fuse and the headlight switch, that test should prove it, correct? Forgive my ignorance, I'm better with mechanical problems than electrical.

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[east302]

Ok, so I need to trace the wire from fuse 9 to it's next destination. It should be just the brown wire, and should go straight to the headlight switch.

Yes. If you take the dash knee bolster off you may be able to see the connection into fuse 9. It’s probably just the brown wire.

There may be an orange wire as well, if so, that should wind up at the convenience center, or the transfer case?

If there is one, it would go to the convenience center and on to the headlamp module. I doubt that it’s there.

I'm guessing it doesn't, the only illumination for the transfer case switch comes off of circuit 14 supplied by a gray wire.

It’d be circuit 8 from fuse 14, but yeah it wouldn’t be on your fuse 9 circuit.

I think the illumination for the old floor style transfer case might have been different, but there's no wire from circuit 9 going anywhere in the dash illumination circuit, unless I'm misunderstanding what lighting would be associated with the transfer case.

Diagnosis would be measuring current from fuse to headlight switch, should be zero, current from fuse to switch harness should be 250-300 mA. If the draw is between the fuse and the headlight switch, that test should prove it, correct? Forgive my ignorance, I'm better with mechanical problems than electrical.

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Yeah, I’m better at mechanical as well. So, under normal circumstances, if you disconnect the headlight switch then the ground is separated and the current (and voltage) on the harness side would be zero.

But you’d be able to get voltage (and current) on the harness side if you connect a ground to the ground terminal of the harness. So if you disconnect the harness (breaking the ground) and still have current in that line between the fuse and disconnected harness (as shown by a draw at the battery) that should mean that the piece of brown wire between the fuse and headlight harness is somehow being supplied a ground to the battery. That assumes that the draw is in this fuse 9 circuit, which seems to be the case based on what you’ve tried.

I think we’re saying the same thing, lol.

 

[RawbDidIt]

We are, meant fuse 14, not circuit 14. I removed the knee bolster to get to the ashtray light. Left it off because I don't have a bulb yet, and need to replace it. Plus, there's no reason to put it all back together until the problem is fixed. I'll update tomorrow, thanks for the help.

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[Schurkey]

What are you supposed to have for parasitic draw? I wouldn't expect 300 mA to be a big deal.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Anything over 50 mA is too much. 300 mA is enough to drain my battery enough to prevent starting just about overnight. With the fuse out, I don't have any measurable draw on the battery. May not seem like a big deal, but the truck doesn't get driven that often, and draining the battery and jump starting it to run over and over it is terrible for the battery. It's possible the battery is trashed now just from the constant draining and recharging. It should be able to hold up to the draw if it's a daily driver, and you're able to run it long enough to recharge the battery, since it isn't my daily driver, it doesn't get driven often enough to keep the battery charged, and putting a battery charger on it in between uses is just a bandaid, the problem still exists. Even as a daily driver, my 20 minute drive to work and back every day wouldn't be enough to charge it more than the losses during its time not running, especially with DRL every time I turn the key. As soon as the draw is fixed I'm taking it in to test it. It's still under warranty, so no big deal.

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[RawbDidIt]

Update: draw measured from headlight switch harness is way higher than that measured through the fuse. Like 2.85 amps. Why would the current be higher there? I expect it to be slightly higher if the harness is closer to the source but 10 times higher? Unless the harness is the source.... I'll have to check the harness a bit closer tomorrow when the sun comes out again.

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[east302]

Could be that the power from the fuse and the feed to ground (via the lamps) in the harness are just touching. They’re adjacent, cavities ‘H’ and ‘S’, so it’s plausible.

Otherwise, maybe a small tear in the insulation rubbing against metal just enough to short it to ground but not enough to blow the fuse.

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[joep88cheyenne]

Couple of other thoughts come to mind... Other vehicles I've had the glove box lamp would drain. Also lamps on visors for the mirrors. If so equipped. Maybe clock on radio. And a silly loaded question was aux lights ever installed or strange non OEM wires here and there. A po may have added then removed things but not bad circuits for them.