Pan hard bar or wattts linkage

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Has anyone worked ether one of these system for there truck. I want to make this work on my 1997 Tahoe.
Thanks in Advance for any pics or input

 

[Eskimomann209]

I have used the pan hard in several applications.
One 73 c10 rear end
And my gmt400, has pan hards front and rear.
I have no issues with this setup.
Currently installing another pan hard rear setup in another 69 c10

 

[arrg]

https://obschevyracing.com/pan-trac-bar

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-2654-gm-88-98-c1500-truck-bolt-on-watts-link.aspx

 

[Eskimomann209]

Why does the top one still have the leaf springs mounted?
isn’t the point of these to center the axle during a link swap!?

 

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I am going to go with the cachassisworks well thought out expensive piece to cut on the cnc

 

[Erik the Awful]

Watts links look cool, but they're heavy, complicated, and bind slightly on compression (in motion they make a narrow figure 8, not a straight line). There's a lot of Mustang guys out there tossing out perfectly good panhard bars for a .001% improvement that they're not skilled enough to notice in the first place, and they're paying a cool grand for the privilege.

Panhard bars are effective, but that top kit is pure bunkum. If you want to go full-racer on the suspension, ditch the leafs and go with a three or four-link rear suspension. With an angled four-link (ala Chevelles and other muscle cars), a panhard bar isn't even needed.

That's if I was building a race truck. On a stree-driven Tahoe? I wouldn't even bother. Stick with the leafs. Maybe put bigger sway bars on it if you want it to feel sportier.

 

[Supercharged111]

The panhard will want to pull the diff housing slightly left and right as it sweeps through compression and rebound, so it's not perfect either. Both benefit from limiting suspension travel with stiffer springs and more robust dampers.

 

[Erik the Awful]

While it's true that under compression or rebound the panhard will pull the axle side-to-side, it's not too likely that any of us are capable of driving a vehicle competitively enough to notice. Experienced racers can compensate for it, and it doesn't negatively impact grip.

If either setup limits vertical suspension travel, it's not by design, and it's a negative attribute. Their purpose is to limit horizontal travel. Your springs and sway bar limit your vertical suspension travel. Shocks are only supposed to slow that travel. If a shock is routinely moved to the limit of its travel, that's also a bad thing.

 

[TechNova]

Why does the top one still have the leaf springs mounted?
isn’t the point of these to center the axle during a link swap!?

Not always. leaf springs do a poor job of keeping the axle centered. This kit would improve that. It might not be as good as a 4 link with panhard or watts but it is cheaper and some people don't need the adjustability of a 4 link or have the driving ability to reap the benefits. A panhard's shortcoming is magnified by increased suspension vertical travel. A watts keeps the rear centered better with long travel. As mentioned above, stiffer springs limit suspension travel for road and track use so the panhards shortcoming is not a factor and it is a simpler setup. The Camaro I am working on has a Detroit Speed 4 link and panhard. If you know the reputation and quality of DS, you know the panhard works.

 

[Frank Enstein]

I designed a 3 link for my Firebird the lower is a wishbone. I plan to use a triangulated 4 link for frank. Not a fan of panhard bars. They are problematic for long travel-ish ( street) suspension. A watts can be a bit better but like Erik says they are heavy and complicated, Every setup has it's own ups and downs. The choice is yours. I recommend 2 books before you jump. Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams HPB-HP1055 and How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn HPB-HP46. The Part numbers are Summir Racing numbers and they are about $25 each.