P0300 1996 K1500

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Sterek

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Amazon has an Autel AutoLink code-reader for $35. No, it's not going to give you specific codes. You'll get generic codes at that price level. The description even says it doesn't provide "enhanced" codes.

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74

'Course, I've been wrong before, and I've never used an Autel code-reader.

Pull the plugs, look for obvious problems, test the plug wires--maybe you have an open wire, or one that's grounding. Test the cranking compression of each cylinder. This could be fuel-related, but ignition and compression are easier to test.

Okay i just replaced all plugs and wires, old plugs were almost all fouled. Cleared codes and CEL came right back on im im going to hook up a different scan tool when i i get a chance. this is the tool i i have : https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLi...04&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-491474138373
 

RawbDidIt

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Okay i just replaced all plugs and wires, old plugs were almost all fouled. Cleared codes and CEL came right back on im im going to hook up a different scan tool when i i get a chance. this is the tool i i have : https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLi...04&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-491474138373
Yeah, you're going to need something more advanced than that, or invest in other testing tools to figure out most problems with a semi modern engine. How were the plugs fouled, were they black which would indicate rich, or were they grey or yellow on the ceramic indicating lean?

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Sterek

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Yeah, you're going to need something more advanced than that, or invest in other testing tools to figure out most problems with a semi modern engine. How were the plugs fouled, were they black which would indicate rich, or were they grey or yellow on the ceramic indicating lean?

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They were black definitely running rich. It smells rich too. maybe thinking there might be a vacuum leak.
 

RawbDidIt

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They were black definitely running rich. It smells rich too. maybe thinking there might be a vacuum leak.
Vacuum leak would run lean with no other factors. You're running too much fuel, or not enough air. You're looking at things that affect that. Fuel pressure regulator, air filter, MAF, O2 sensor, etc.

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Sterek

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Vacuum leak would run lean with no other factors. You're running too much fuel, or not enough air. You're looking at things that affect that. Fuel pressure regulator, air filter, MAF, O2 sensor, etc.

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Wouldn't a lean condition cause it to run rich? Unmetered air would be seen by o2 causing the computer to inrich the mixture right?
 

RawbDidIt

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Wouldn't a lean condition cause it to run rich? Unmetered air would be seen by o2 causing the computer to inrich the mixture right?
A lean condition means that the engine is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air that is being provided. If the sensors were reading incorrectly it could cause it to overcompensate for a situation that doesn't exist. Based on the symptoms you've explained here this doesn't appear to be the case. If you had a scanner and could indicate that there was evidence of a sensor being bad, we could look into that, but as of right now we have old fuel, fouled spark plugs, a previously damaged distributor cap that has been replaced and a code that indicates that more than one cylinder is misfiring. If you had other codes pointing to which sensor was providing the information the code was based on, we could point you in a specific direction but as if right now you will need to diagnose every sensor and parameter independently because you don't have a scanner with access to live info. This means diagnosing the O2 sensor, MAF sensor, fuel pressure, and vacuum in order to diagnose exactly what it's happening in the engine to cause it to run rich. You are correct in that a sensor misreading the operating information as "lean" would cause a rich condition, but the codes aren't there, perhaps the sensors are doing this and they haven't hit the threshold that would throw a code, but without diagnosis it is difficult to recommend replacing a sensor.

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Sterek

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A lean condition means that the engine is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air that is being provided. If the sensors were reading incorrectly it could cause it to overcompensate for a situation that doesn't exist. Based on the symptoms you've explained here this doesn't appear to be the case. If you had a scanner and could indicate that there was evidence of a sensor being bad, we could look into that, but as of right now we have old fuel, fouled spark plugs, a previously damaged distributor cap that has been replaced and a code that indicates that more than one cylinder is misfiring. If you had other codes pointing to which sensor was providing the information the code was based on, we could point you in a specific direction but as if right now you will need to diagnose every sensor and parameter independently because you don't have a scanner with access to live info. This means diagnosing the O2 sensor, MAF sensor, fuel pressure, and vacuum in order to diagnose exactly what it's happening in the engine to cause it to run rich. You are correct in that a sensor misreading the operating information as "lean" would cause a rich condition, but the codes aren't there, perhaps the sensors are doing this and they haven't hit the threshold that would throw a code, but without diagnosis it is difficult to recommend replacing a sensor.

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Okay im im going to make a trip to harbor freight to grab some tools to test the fuel pressure and vacuum. They do have a scan tool for 70$ my buddy was telling me shows voltages, or i might stop by a family friends shop to use a snap on scanner. far as voltages i could back probe the sensors.
 

Sterek

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New rotor and cap put on they were both corroded. Issue still exist. Im going to to test fuel, im leaning towards the issue being fuel related.
 

Powerslayer

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You say you put in a distributor from another truck, do you know for certain that distributor is good? I fought with a P0300 (read using a good reader that can read individual cylinders as well) for around 8 months on my 97 c1500 before solving it.

Initially swapped wires, plugs (some were lean, most were black), cap and rotor to no permanent solution. I ended up putting a new cap and rotor on every couple of months and the code would go away for a week or so, then the flashing SES light would show back up.

My rotor was always corroded after a couple of months, maybe even earlier (just 1 week likely but unable to confirm, which is when the code would show up). I threw in an aluminum shaft distributor and my issues went away.

In the past, the truck always had issues cranking in cold weather or just after a rain (with moisture in the air still) and those issues also went away after the new dist.

Plugs could be black from bad/sloppy timing, which a distributor could be the root cause.

Edit: Grammer, and also, 2 years before the p0300 code, I had replaced the fuel pump, injector spider, fuel filter, and fuel regulator because I had a manifold leak caused by the ol dex-kill and figured since I had to tear it all apart for the gasket job, I might as well replace the spider/regulator.
 
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Sterek

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You say you put in a distributor from another truck, do you know for certain that distributor is good? I fought with a P0300 (off a good reader that reads individual cylinders as well) for around 8 months before solving it. Initially swapped wires, plugs, cap and rotor to no avail. But, I ended up put a new cap and rotor on every couple of months and the code would go away for a week or so. My rotor was always corroded after a couple of months, maybe even earlier (just 1 week likely, which is when the code shows up). I threw in an aluminum shaft distributor and my issues went away. In the past, the truck had always had issues cranking in cold weather or just after a rain with moisture in the air, those issues went away after the new dist.

Plugs could be black from bad/sloppy timing, which a distributor could be the root cause.

So i bought a new cap and rotor. old one was corroded. i am wondering if the distributer shaft itself is the problem. Im waiting to get a timing light from my buddy to check the timing. if it is off then that might be my problem. I think im im going to pull off the cap and rotor i put on and buy a new whole assembly.
 
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