Oil Pan Gasket and Timing Set

[JeremyNH]

Now im thoroughly confused.
I thought the cloyes 1157 and the 3157 were very good stock replacements?? And after hearing this about the newer thinner oil pumps maybe i should just leave the old 220k stock pump alone.

They are, but they're a stock replacement upgrade. They're both true roller sets so the chain links each have a floating sleeve that can freely turn in the sprocket vs the OEM chain that doesn't so friction can wear the sprockets down. The 3157 has higher QC and IIRC the chain hardening is a little different but whether it's worth twice the cost of the 1157 is a question. The 1157 is similar to a GMPP part that costs more than the 3157. The 1157 and 3157 were both made specifically for LT1/4 and vortec motors so best to stay with them IMHO. The c3092 mentioned in an earlier post looks by description to be the 1157 but only one keyway instead of three. But it costs a few dollars more and is a lot less popular so wouldn't be the right pick for me. They're very tight when you put on though so you'll likely have to install the two sprockets at the same time since the chain may not have enough play to allow the cam sprocket to go on with the crank sprocket fully tapped in. That's what Cloyes recommends anyway (and what I did). You should get a 1.5" or 2" x 6" iron pipe nipple from a hardware store to fit over the crank nose and allow you to tap the crank sprocket and reluctor wheel back on.

Note on the Holley cover is that there are two ears in the flange, one on each side, near where the water pump mounts that will have to be ground down a little bit to avoid interfering with the pump when you go to reinstall it. You don't need to grind them flush just shave off about 1/8" off the round. The ears are for bolt holes in the cover that aren't drilled into a vortec block so serve no purpose. I've used Holey covers twice on two different blocks and had to do it both times. One other note on the Holley is that the crank sensor is VERY hard to force into the cover channel for it. Easy for plastic but not for aluminum. I recommend doing it before you mount the cover because pushing up from underneath the motor is an awkward position and you'll need your strength to do it. That was my lesson learned the first time I used the Holley cover.

 

[97Burban57]

Excellent info , appreciate it.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

They are, but they're a stock replacement upgrade. They're both true roller sets so the chain links each have a floating sleeve that can freely turn in the sprocket vs the OEM chain that doesn't so friction can wear the sprockets down. The 3157 has higher QC and IIRC the chain hardening is a little different but whether it's worth twice the cost of the 1157 is a question. The 1157 is similar to a GMPP part that costs more than the 3157. The 1157 and 3157 were both made specifically for LT1/4 and vortec motors so best to stay with them IMHO. The c3092 mentioned in an earlier post looks by description to be the 1157 but only one keyway instead of three. But it costs a few dollars more and is a lot less popular so wouldn't be the right pick for me. They're very tight when you put on though so you'll likely have to install the two sprockets at the same time since the chain may not have enough play to allow the cam sprocket to go on with the crank sprocket fully tapped in. That's what Cloyes recommends anyway (and what I did). You should get a 1.5" or 2" x 6" iron pipe nipple from a hardware store to fit over the crank nose and allow you to tap the crank sprocket and reluctor wheel back on.

Note on the Holley cover is that there are two ears in the flange, one on each side, near where the water pump mounts that will have to be ground down a little bit to avoid interfering with the pump when you go to reinstall it. You don't need to grind them flush just shave off about 1/8" off the round. The ears are for bolt holes in the cover that aren't drilled into a vortec block so serve no purpose. I've used Holey covers twice on two different blocks and had to do it both times. One other note on the Holley is that the crank sensor is VERY hard to force into the cover channel for it. Easy for plastic but not for aluminum. I recommend doing it before you mount the cover because pushing up from underneath the motor is an awkward position and you'll need your strength to do it. That was my lesson learned the first time I used the Holley cover.

I did not have either problem with the Holley cover. It did not hit my Flowkooler pump nor was the crank sensor difficult to install. I always put some engine oil on the oring to prevent from damaging it.

 

[Supercharged111]

What does the Holley cover use to seal to the block?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

What does the Holley cover use to seal to the block?

Standard old SBC timing cover gasket.

 

[97Burban57]

They are, but they're a stock replacement upgrade. They're both true roller sets so the chain links each have a floating sleeve that can freely turn in the sprocket vs the OEM chain that doesn't so friction can wear the sprockets down. The 3157 has higher QC and IIRC the chain hardening is a little different but whether it's worth twice the cost of the 1157 is a question. The 1157 is similar to a GMPP part that costs more than the 3157. The 1157 and 3157 were both made specifically for LT1/4 and vortec motors so best to stay with them IMHO. The c3092 mentioned in an earlier post looks by description to be the 1157 but only one keyway instead of three. But it costs a few dollars more and is a lot less popular so wouldn't be the right pick for me. They're very tight when you put on though so you'll likely have to install the two sprockets at the same time since the chain may not have enough play to allow the cam sprocket to go on with the crank sprocket fully tapped in. That's what Cloyes recommends anyway (and what I did). You should get a 1.5" or 2" x 6" iron pipe nipple from a hardware store to fit over the crank nose and allow you to tap the crank sprocket and reluctor wheel back on.

Note on the Holley cover is that there are two ears in the flange, one on each side, near where the water pump mounts that will have to be ground down a little bit to avoid interfering with the pump when you go to reinstall it. You don't need to grind them flush just shave off about 1/8" off the round. The ears are for bolt holes in the cover that aren't drilled into a vortec block so serve no purpose. I've used Holey covers twice on two different blocks and had to do it both times. One other note on the Holley is that the crank sensor is VERY hard to force into the cover channel for it. Easy for plastic but not for aluminum. I recommend doing it before you mount the cover because pushing up from underneath the motor is an awkward position and you'll need your strength to do it. That was my lesson learned the first time I used the Holley cover.

A little update- I got the Holley timing cover on and installed the water pump today without having to grind anything. I'm not joking when I say the clearance was about 1mm combined for both sides! See pics .

 

[mn_ski]

A little update- I got the Holley timing cover on and installed the water pump today without having to grind anything. I'm not joking when I say the clearance was about 1mm combined for both sides! See pics .

Did you end up replacing the timing chain set as well?

Question for the group: Is the 1157 the choice for replacing a factory chain set? I have a 5.7 in my '98 that has a leaky timing chain cover. Since I will be "in there anyway" should I look to replace my timing chain set? Any need to do that or do the factory chains last "forever"? Currently 223K miles.

 

[97Burban57]

Did you end up replacing the timing chain set as well?

Question for the group: Is the 1157 the choice for replacing a factory chain set? I have a 5.7 in my '98 that has a leaky timing chain cover. Since I will be "in there anyway" should I look to replace my timing chain set? Any need to do that or do the factory chains last "forever"? Currently 223K miles.

I changed the whole timing set, gears and chain since im at 221k miles.

 

[mn_ski]

I changed the whole timing set, gears and chain since im at 221k miles.

Cool, Which set did you end up installing? How did the old set look? Pretty much the same mileage as me.

 

[mn_ski]

In case anyone finds this thread in the future, I had the Holley 21-153 timing cover and Cloyes 1157 timing chain installed. Both installed and work great.