NV4500 swap question

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Hamps

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I used a wilwood .0750 aftermarket slave and it lined up perfectly with the factory bolts but had to fab a union to go to the threads. Threaded slave to clutch pedal push rod. Ram internal throw out bearing. Shifts real nice.
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Mounts on an angle but the holes line up perfectly. The reservoir is remote mount. Did extended bleed line and everything works extremely well. Short pedal and excellent shifting even on a Sm465 pig.
 

Wozny

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You talking about this bracket that keeps the stock swing geometry. Yeah I couldn't find anything out there either. I drilled out the one on the doner vehicle and grafted it to mine. Had to loosen the dash to get it installed. Used self tappers and metal epoxy. PS all the fords through these years had them be sure to tell GM
I don't know, its been 5 months since I looked under that dash. What year is the donor you got it from? I don't see how this bracket would hold a shaft for the pedals to ride on. I looked all over on Ebay, and googled 1992 chevy truck clutch bracket, nothing came up. I even googled "picture of 932 chevy clutch pedal assembly" and got nothing. I'm thinking it was about 1996 when they went from one shaft with two pedals to them being independent of each other because that was the year they changed the master cylinders. I'm still thinking the 92's were sharing a single bracket and shaft
 

Nick775

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You talking about this bracket that keeps the stock swing geometry. Yeah I couldn't find anything out there either. I drilled out the one on the doner vehicle and grafted it to mine. Had to loosen the dash to get it installed. Used self tappers and metal epoxy. PS all the fords through these years had them be sure to tellThat is exactly what I did l
You must be registered for see images attach

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You talking about this bracket that keeps the stock swing geometry. Yeah I couldn't find anything out there either. I drilled out the one on the doner vehicle and grafted it to mine. Had to loosen the dash to get it installed. Used self tappers and metal epoxy. PS all the fords through these years had them be sure to tell GM
Yeah, I used the same bracket off a donor truck and used sheet metal screws to install it as well.
 

Wozny

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I used a wilwood .0750 aftermarket slave and it lined up perfectly with the factory bolts but had to fab a union to go to the threads. Threaded slave to clutch pedal push rod. Ram internal throw out bearing. Shifts real nice.
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Mounts on an angle but the holes line up perfectly. The reservoir is remote mount. Did extended bleed line and everything works extremely well. Short pedal and excellent shifting even on a Sm465 pig.
Thanks, I'm writing this down in case I go external slave. the shop already has the internal on it. Was the Ram throwout bearing the same length as the one you took out? What year truck? What master cyl. did you use, when you say threaded slave to pedal you mean the lines were threaded on all ends? That is what I want
 

Wozny

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OH, I saw that on a youtube vid where the guy used self tappers to get other one onto the firewell. but he didn't show the bracket Hamps showed. The guy also used self tappers to avoid taking the dash off. And drilled the fasteners out to get it off the donor. Hope I don't have to go that route. I might get that truck back tomorrow. I'll get a picture of it. Maybe since this picture of yours is for your 93, they changed it after 92.
 

Hamps

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Then this the clutch pedal bracket bolts to it
Yes. The rear two holes are what attaches to that bracket I posted. You don’t necessarily have to use that it was the route I chose because I feared over time that the dash may not support the abuse. There are many other ways I’m sure one could get creative to find a solution. I removed just a few bolts out of the dash on the drivers side. Main one was the 13mm bolt on the kick panel and a few of the 7mm holding it on. Squeezed in upside down backwards with tongue hanging out and got it done.
 

Hamps

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Thanks, I'm writing this down in case I go external slave. the shop already has the internal on it. Was the Ram throwout bearing the same length as the one you took out? What year truck? What master cyl. did you use, when you say threaded slave to pedal you mean the lines were threaded on all ends? That is what I want
The ram is internal. I had to fab an 0.050 spacer to push the bell housing back to get the required air space for the bearing. It sounds worse than it is to do this but proper spacing is required for those types of slaves. Words can’t explain how well it shifts. My tank SM465 will do 5K shifts when feeling froggy. Here is the truck.
If you need some help on anything just reach out I’m sure someone on here can help. Yes I used -3 and -4 a brake line hoses for everything and extended the bleed port. Made everything work really well. I posted the link for the master cylinder and the threads were 1/4 by an odd pitch. Drilled and tapped that with steel stock then welded the clutch rod actuator to it.
 

someotherguy

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I don't know, its been 5 months since I looked under that dash. What year is the donor you got it from? I don't see how this bracket would hold a shaft for the pedals to ride on. I looked all over on Ebay, and googled 1992 chevy truck clutch bracket, nothing came up. I even googled "picture of 932 chevy clutch pedal assembly" and got nothing. I'm thinking it was about 1996 when they went from one shaft with two pedals to them being independent of each other because that was the year they changed the master cylinders. I'm still thinking the 92's were sharing a single bracket and shaft
Much longer ago, not sure when, but absolutely pre-gmt400. The clutch pedal setup is a completely separate assembly from the brake. I know the setup you're talking about; I once discovered the hard way pulling the clutch pedal out of my '63 Suburban (had been converted to a TH400) that the brake pedal soon walked sideways and fell out ;)

Richard
 
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