Northern 91

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91Vieja

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New Y-pipe arrived from Rock Auto. For the price, I’m pleasantly surprised to see that it’s mandrel bent, has an O2 sensor bung, is stamped made in Canada, and doesn’t appear to have been welded by a trained monkey.
 

91Vieja

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Had a whoopsie moment with the jack. Trans uninstalled itself via the gravity method. Rear main seal itself was a 5 min job, just 5 hours of work to get at it.
 

91Vieja

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Trans was nasty. In an ideal world it would be off the the shop for a rebuild, but justifying $ for that to the wife was a non-starter. So to make myself feel better I spent an hour scrubbing it spotless before it went back in. Because if it’s clean, it’ll be happier, right?
 

91Vieja

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Trans back on the jack ready to go in. Couldn’t resist stripping the rust off and painting the crossmember, trans mount, front drive shaft while they were out. Transfer case is re-sealed and back together. Still waiting on the correct u-joints in the mail.
 

91Vieja

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And these came. Trying to get some work done this afternoon and resist the urge to run out and install them immediately.
 

91Vieja

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Headers installed. No clearance issues. Plenty of room for plug wires. Thick flanges, decent welds, all stainless. Hardware and gaskets that came with them are crap, will see how long they last. But for $160 CAD shipped I’m not complaining. Did new plugs too, because it looks like the headers may have to come off to get the back plugs out in the future. Still would be an easier job than on my wife’s Subaru, where I have to raise the engine to clear the frame rails.
 

kennythewelder

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Headers installed. No clearance issues. Plenty of room for plug wires. Thick flanges, decent welds, all stainless. Hardware and gaskets that came with them are crap, will see how long they last. But for $160 CAD shipped I’m not complaining. Did new plugs too, because it looks like the headers may have to come off to get the back plugs out in the future. Still would be an easier job than on my wife’s Subaru, where I have to raise the engine to clear the frame rails.
I have never had to take off my headers to replace a spark plug. It looks like the clearance is about the same as mine. For the back plugs, you just have to do them from under the truck. I have even done my back plugs from on top with a wrench before but it is tight. Its much easier to just crawl under the truck and do them from the bottom.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I have never had to take off my headers to replace a spark plug
Me either, even with slant plugs (which make it even tighter), I did have to grind down a plug socket so it barely covers the hex on the plug. Others I used a box end wrench and a combination plug socket and box end wrench but, it can be done.
 
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