No-Start Vortec 350

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bEnC10

Newbie
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Messages
14
Reaction score
8
Location
Texas
Honestly I haven’t messed with that, the shop that I took my engine to to get rebuilt, they told me what everything was set to start all I needed to do was the accessories like alternator, water pump etc.. so I haven’t bothered to try it out. I can pull the valve covers off and check clearance. But what is it supposed to be at? Like the gauge clearance?
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
9,658
Reaction score
14,982
Location
Tonopah, AZ
Do a compression test before messing with it. You should have been given a cam card with all the specs on it. You need to know if you have a solid lifter cam or hydraulic (I'm guessing hydraulic). Ask the rebuilder if he set the valve lash/preload too.
 

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
3,410
Reaction score
4,349
Location
Dallas, TX
I have a multimeter would that work with injector pulse? I’m about to get a compression tester to test it.
I don't know, but you can try. Should see some sort of voltage movement.

A test light is very inexpensive and probably underused by DIYer for checking basic things. If you don't have one, I would highly recommend buying one.
 

bEnC10

Newbie
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Messages
14
Reaction score
8
Location
Texas
Okay so an update, I went to Harbor Freight and got a compression tester and a Test light. So far, I’ve done only one side of the engine (drivers side) and they all went above 130 psi of compression. Should I still do the other side even though one side is good? I also smelt the spark plugs and they all smelt like gas so I’m getting gas for sure. I’m also going to test injector pulse just in case.
 

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
3,410
Reaction score
4,349
Location
Dallas, TX
Yeah, you're already there, might as well check the other bank for compression. Try to eliminate as much as unknowns as possible.
 

bEnC10

Newbie
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Messages
14
Reaction score
8
Location
Texas
I’m currently checking the other side, but I did check injection pulse and I did get a signal. I saw the flash of the light. It wasn’t super bright, but it was there.
 

bEnC10

Newbie
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Messages
14
Reaction score
8
Location
Texas
Spark plugs looked cleaner then I thought they would have been. They were a little black on the spark side but I just wiped it away. Also the compression was hitting 150+ on some of them but it was bc I was cranking for a little longer than I was for the other ones.
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
9,658
Reaction score
14,982
Location
Tonopah, AZ
Wouldn't that be after it broke in?
Well, maybe for you when you gap your rings at 1/2" for boost :biggrin: Just kidding.

Also the compression was hitting 150+ on some of them but it was bc I was cranking for a little longer than I was for the other ones.
You should crank until the needle stops climbing - 3 or 4 seconds.

Spark plugs looked cleaner then I thought they would have been. They were a little black on the spark side but I just wiped it away.
Try a new set of plugs and see what happens. A simple cleaning on them doesn't always clear the fowling.

I can be wrong (I have been before, ha ha) but, I'm still leaning towards the valves are set too tight, been there done that.
 
Top