No start no crank! All electric works.

Discussion in 'Engine Performance + Maintenance' started by 94FSblazer, Nov 7, 2019.

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  1. 94FSblazer

    94FSblazer Newbie

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    Hey there GMT400,
    I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer 5.7 tbi.

    Couple weeks ago I had a no start no crank issue. All lights and electrical work.

    It had a little bit of a rough start in the weeks leading up to this - slow cranking. But always started.

    I assumed starter and had a new 95-up starter laying around so I installed that. No change happened. Tried starting in neutral, with no luck.

    What else do I need to look at to figure out my issue? Connections look good, but I'm not sure where all to look.

    Thanks for any help you can give me!

    Link to video of start attempt:
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2019
  2. Eveready

    Eveready I'm Awesome

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    Check battery to starter and battery to ground . Easy way is add jumper cable alongside both. I'm betting on battery ground. Also test battery but more likely a ground.
     
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  3. 94FSblazer

    94FSblazer Newbie

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    So hook the jumper cable to the connection points between battery and ground and then try to start it? If starts then I would need to replace that wire? Obviously check if the surface is good for the ground, but if that's good then i would need to replace the ground wire?

    Thanks for your help!
     
  4. CRF450R

    CRF450R Truckin'

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    I had this problem with my 98 it was the starter. I removed the started and put it on the bench and it would work so I put it back in ran all new battery cables new battery thought I had it fixed hit the key and nothing wtf. So I bought a brand new napa starter as I live above a napa / mechanical tire shop and he had one in stock. So tossed it in thinking I had it cured and nothing so took it off borrowed a vranb new AC Delco starter it was new never used but was five years old out it in hit the key nothing yup I was getting really upset so tried another top of the line napa brand starter in ( I hate napa brand shit parts) hit the key she fired up it lasted about three weeks and it started to screw around so had it replaced under warranty haven't had a starter problem since.
     
  5. 98chevy2500SS

    98chevy2500SS Bowtie 'Til I Die

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    I wouldn't be too sure about those wires being good, especially since you live in Michigan. High possibility of corrosion on those wires, and maybe in them as well. Have you checked all the fuses (under the hood, and on the side of the dash just to be sure) with a test light? If they are all good, try a voltage drop on the starter wire(s), if the drop is higher than 0.2, then there's an issue with the wire(s). Or, maybe it could even be just a junk starter. If wires and fuses checked ok, then I would get a new starter (get a gear reduction starter) and see if that makes it work again.
     
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  6. 94FSblazer

    94FSblazer Newbie

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    Fuses are good. I checked those right after the no start.
    I'll check on those wires for corrosion. Im in seattle now, but spent the last 4 years in Michigan, so that makes sense that they may be bad. I'm sure their stock too.

    For the voltage drop, i test it with key off and then key in on position, right?

    The alternator I put in is a brand new actually delco gear reduction starter. Smaller than the old anchor of a starter that was stock. It was tested and showed it was good.

    I'll go thru the wires and look for corrosion or anything else. Might just opt to buy new ones anyway.

    Thank you
     
  7. L29Sub

    L29Sub I'm Awesome

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    Check for 12v "start" signal at the starter solenoid "S" terminal. If it lights up when key is turned to start position, it's probably your battery cables or battery. If the "S" terminal does not light when starting, jump a hot wire to the S terminal and see if it starts. If it does, check neutral interlock, ignition switch, starter relay, and related wiring. You can easily jump the starter at the relay.
    Make sure you're in park or neutral if manual, and its blocked. It might start with you underneath. Be safe.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  8. 98chevy2500SS

    98chevy2500SS Bowtie 'Til I Die

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    You will have to use a multi-meter do the drop. Put the positive needle from the multi-meter on the positive terminal on the battery. Then put the ground needle at the end of the starter positive wire. If it's more than .2, it's a bad wire. :)

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Schurkey

    Schurkey I'm Awesome

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    Thanks. You saved me a lot of typing.

    Sort of.

    I'd say up to 0.5 volts is acceptable, and THE ENGINE HAS TO BE CRANKING (starter motor drawing amperage) for the test to be valid.

    If the starter won't engage, this test may not be accurate. You should ALSO do the ground side of the circuit.
    [​IMG]


    A similar sort of test can be done on the small wire attached to the "S" terminal of the starter. Again, positive lead on the positive battery post, negative lead on the "S" terminal. Crank engine while reading volt meter. Anything over 0.2 indicates a fault in the harness that includes the wire to the "S" terminal, which can be anywhere from the battery to the ignition switch, through the neutral safety or clutch switch, through the bulkhead connector, and on to the starter solenoid.
     

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