NFG looking for help with '97 Tahoe suspension height

[DOGFACE]

First post from a FNG...

Picked up a high mileage 1997 two door Tahoe SLT 4x4, which originated out of Utah, for frame and body are relatively clean, despite assorted dings and dents... which is gold here in Michigan where everything rusts out overnight.

Ball joints appear to have been replaced recently. Front end sits much lower than rear end, with significant positive camber (top of tire sticks out wider than where tire meets pavement... I'm a newbie, just want to clarify). Drives straight as an arrow.

The rear suspension shackles appear stock, I don't see a lift leaf on the stack.

The truck wears a set of P265/65R18 tires/aftermarket rims, that came with it, which will be promptly be swapped out with a set of factory 2019 GMC Sierra P265/65R18 takes offs (the current aftermarket wheels are a bit too bling for my taste...).

I am asking from those with tangible experience, as I don't want to chase my tail (more than necessary anyway).

If I understand correctly, torqueing the torsion bars for a lift creates negative camber? Considering that my front end exhibits obvious positive camber, and sits significantly lower then rear axle, would it be safe to assume that the front end may have been torqued for lift, and then received a proper alignment..... and then the next owner lowered the torsion bars (for whatever reason)?

If I get my ass under the truck and torque the torsion bars for lift, I will counter the current positive camber?

Regardless, I will knock out a front end alignment regardless, the new factory set of wheels/rims where not cheap (though cheaper than most aftermarket tire/rim choices).

 

[df2x4]

You're correct in your thinking. Any adjustment to the torsion bar keys is going to require an alignment afterward.

EDIT - Side note, I wouldn't crank the front up too far. It kills your ride comfort and part longevity.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Measure your "Z" height on the front suspension.

 

[DOGFACE]

You're correct in your thinking. Any adjustment to the torsion bar keys is going to require an alignment afterward.

EDIT - Side note, I wouldn't crank the front up too far. It kills your ride comfort and part longevity.

That you. I will check Z height, and go from there. Daily driving and longevity is important. If I can prevent the truck from rusting away, it will be a long term project.

Any insight in regard to how much I can lift from Z, before I tangibly compromise ride quality and drivetrain longetivity (guessing that there are factory limits for installation of plows ect.)?

 

[evilunclegrimace]

That you. I will check Z height, and go from there. Daily driving and longevity is important. If I can prevent the truck from rusting away, it will be a long term project.

Any insight in regard to how much I can lift from Z, before I tangibly compromise ride quality and drivetrain longetivity (guessing that there are factory limits for installation of plows ect.)?

How much lift above factory "Z" height would depend on the spring rate of the front torsion bars. Higher spring rate bars would require less adjustment than softer ones. The factory offered F60 RPO code for plow/camper trucks.

 

[df2x4]

That you. I will check Z height, and go from there. Daily driving and longevity is important. If I can prevent the truck from rusting away, it will be a long term project.

Any insight in regard to how much I can lift from Z, before I tangibly compromise ride quality and drivetrain longetivity (guessing that there are factory limits for installation of plows ect.)?

Agreed with evilunclegrimace, but the general rule of thumb that gets tossed around here is no more than 2".

EDIT - In regards to fender height from level ground, not sure what that translates to in Z height change.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Agreed with evilunclegrimace, but the general rule of thumb that gets tossed around here is no more than 2".

EDIT - In regards to fender height from level ground, not sure what that translates to in Z height change.

Fender height is not an accurate measurement due to the amount of variables that could be involved such as different height tires, uneven ground,body mods(lift kits), settling of the rubber isolators between the frame and body. The "Z" height is a constant that is measured from two specific points on the suspension and that measurement is only affected by the torsion bar key adjustment.

 

[someotherguy]

another factor to consider is often by this age those Tahoes have significant rear spring sag. I've helped a few folks replace their spring packs due to sag. Sooooo, comparing height front/rear even with a stock vehicle is sketchy at this stage of the game. If someone has measurements from 20ish years ago of a stock one....that would be awesome!

Richard

 

[df2x4]

Fender height is not an accurate measurement due to the amount of variables that could be involved such as different height tires, uneven ground,body mods(lift kits), settling of the rubber isolators between the frame and body. The "Z" height is a constant that is measured from two specific points on the suspension and that measurement is only affected by the torsion bar key adjustment.

I'm aware, was just trying to give the guy a ballpark.

For those who aren't familiar, this thread might be helpful.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/z-height-stock-torsion-bar-setting.36391/

 

[DOGFACE]

O.K., did a little wrenching and driving....going in for front end alignment tomorrow morning. Look kosher?

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Disregard the wheels, they will be swapped with these:

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