KCusick81
Newbie
The "special tool kit" (specialized "EZ-Out", reamer, pipe thread tap) developed by the aftermarket for this job have been discontinued. However, they're still available as old-stock on eBay and other places, sometimes at advantageous pricing. I got mine on eBay for under $20. Haven't used it yet.
www.ebay.com/itm/184786147747?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
NAPA Service Tools 77-4029 Heater Hose Coupler Repair Kit for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NAPA Service Tools 77-4029 Heater Hose Coupler Repair Kit at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
But you may not need any of that--all depends on how the old fitting screws out. I've been lucky, so far.
I wouldn't worry about it. If the fitting disintegrates, pick-out what you can, flush the system, don't obsess. There's all sorts of rusty debris in the bottom of the water-jacket already. (If you pull the block drains, and nothing comes out--poke an awl or screwdriver in the hole to break-up the crust of rusted debris that's settled to the bottom of the water jacket.)
Buy the Flush 'n' Fill kit, no video needed. Pull the block drains on both sides, pull the radiator drain, collect all the existing coolant and dispose of in an Environmentally Responsible Manner. Then just follow instructions with the kit. Use better hose clamps than the kit provides.
When it's me, I torque the knock sensor in, using sealant on the threads. Then replace the steel/iron plug on the driver's side with a brass draincock. Big-Blocks and vehicles with no knock sensors use two iron drain plugs, and they both get replaced with brass draincocks.
www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Y3M98I8FKKBL
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
I won't set foot in Hazzard Fraught. Their whole business model is to sell bottom-feeder junk with the designs stolen from reputable manufacturers. I have no interest in TSOs--Tool-Shaped Objects.
Go to your favorite parts store, get a pressure tester from their loaner-tool program with a refundable deposit. O'Reillys, for example.
My Go-To is Peak Global Lifetime. There's many other decent brands/formulas.
You must be registered for see images attach
Buy the concentrate, NOT the "50/50 pre-mix". I cut it with store-bought distilled water, and I make sure to have AT LEAST 50% anti-freeze. I actually shoot for 60%; and I've used up to 70%. It gets cold here. Anti-freeze is also an anti-boil, and a water-pump lubricant, too.
Some folks talk about going lean on the anti-freeze because water does a better job of transferring heat. And that's true. But if the only thing standing between your vehicle and overheating is the anti-freeze concentration, THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG. And besides...some day you'll go skiing or sight-seeing with your In-Laws, or whatever. You'll drive your vehicle to the top of the mountain, or halfway to the Arctic Circle. You'll never consider that it's colder there than where you live. When you're done skiiing or "seeing"...you'll get halfway down the mountain before the cracked block causes you complete engine failure. There you'll be, shaking your fist at the sky, and moaning that half-a-gallon of antifreeze would have saved you thousands of dollars.
A wrench-and-maul works...if you have a big-enough wrench. Most folks don't.
I get the fan-clutch removal kit from the loaner-tool program at O'Reillys.
Marinade as you like. I don't expect it to make a bit of difference. The heater fitting is pipe-thread, no penetrant can get in there to do any good, because it's designed to be a liquid-tight seal. And the fan clutch isn't rusted, just tight; and with almost no way to secure the water pump pulley to prevent it from turning with the force applied to the fan clutch nut. Once you crack it loose, it'll spin off with your fingers.
The penetrating oil will leave lovely puddles on the pavement where it uselessly drips off, though.
Thanks for the reply and the plethora of info! Greatly appreciated! The aftermarket kit is no more than an ez-out and thread chaser it appears, which I've got plenty of, if need be. So good there.
You make a very strong point about the coolant mix and travel. I can dig the foresight for sure.
Sounds like with the exception of the coolant and the flush and fill kit, I've got everything I need to get it done right!
Thanks again!
). I stopped short of the spot to check it out and sure enough, it was fresh. Peeked under the front of the truck and saw several drips that seemed to favor the passengers side (but that could be a ruse). The fluid was green, so my first thought was coolant. Popped my hood and checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. My truck (97 k1500) never showed any signs of overheating. I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and started looking around. My best guess at this point, is that my water pump has finally given up. It appears to be the original part. There's no way there could be any correlation between the A/C work I've done and the new coolant leak is there? I checked all the hoses, they seem to be ok and I didn't see anything around the thermostat. So I'm still thinking water pump. My question/questions are these...
