Newbie in need of advice again.... Already! (Coolant leak)

[KCusick81]

Good evening folks,

I'm back here again, sooner than anticipated, looking for some advice, technical support, suggestions and the like. As some of you may have seen, I recently started working on replacing most of my A/C system. So far so good with all of that. Today however, I have encountered a new problem. I was on my way back home from Lowe's this afternoon and as I was pulling into my parking space, I noticed a large wet spot on the asphalt where my truck sits (Uh ohhh... ‍). I stopped short of the spot to check it out and sure enough, it was fresh. Peeked under the front of the truck and saw several drips that seemed to favor the passengers side (but that could be a ruse). The fluid was green, so my first thought was coolant. Popped my hood and checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. My truck (97 k1500) never showed any signs of overheating. I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and started looking around. My best guess at this point, is that my water pump has finally given up. It appears to be the original part. There's no way there could be any correlation between the A/C work I've done and the new coolant leak is there? I checked all the hoses, they seem to be ok and I didn't see anything around the thermostat. So I'm still thinking water pump. My question/questions are these...

1. What is the best/easiest/quickest way to identify for certain, the culprit, before I just start throwing money at it?
2. If it does in fact turn out to be the water pump, should I go with an OEM pulley driven replacement?
3. Are there any suggested upgrades (perhaps electric)?
4. Is there any value to upgrading, if so?
5. Are there any other components that I should consider replacing while I'm in there? Or any unforeseen issues or potential roadblocks I should be aware of going into the repair?

And Finally, and the most frightening of my questions, if it turns out that it is in fact NOT my water pump... What is my worst case scenario?? I like to prepare for the worst and then, HOPEFULLY, be pleasantly surprised when things aren't as bad as they could be.

Thank you in advance for your time and any help/suggestions/info you can give me!

Kyle

 

[someotherguy]

Best way? Borrow/buy/etc. a coolant system pressure tester. It's a handheld pump with a fitting that connects like your radiator cap. Pressure the system up (don't exceed the 16lb rating the caps on these trucks are normally spec'd at) - and look/listen for the leak.

My guess would be you may have bumped/disturbed the heater hose quick connect fitting, which on your Vortec small block, is near the front of the intake. They're pot metal and corrode badly then break if you just look at them the wrong way. They can be not fun to remove the broken pieces from the intake.

If it's the pump - buy the best quality -brand new- not remanufactured pump that you can find. Most will be crap Chinesium castings anyway, but at least with new you have a better chance of it being good out of the box.. in my opinion, anyway. Gates is a decent bet (well, used to be, anyway), AC Delco Gold/Pro is "OK", a real AC Delco is pricey as hell, and you don't want to consider electric water pumps as those are generally race-only applications.

Also could be the intake gaskets..

Richard

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Building on what Richard said:

I've had my radiator leak at the tank... it's another place for you to consider.

If it's leaking at the quick-connect as Richard mentioned, consider using this replacement nipple which others here have advocated. See this post where I suggest it and a molded hose to replace the existing: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/mystery-coolant-hose-unable-to-identify.56261/post-1212728

If you're replacing the pump, investigate the solution to removing the fan from the pump. That's something I've never done, and it appears to require a tool I don't have. Look into it so you know what you're getting into. Maybe others will comment.

Some of the bolts that mount the water pump (three of the four, I think) thread into the coolant passages, so you'll need to put some sealant on them, e.g., Permatex 59214.

Backfill with new antifreeze, mixed yourself 50/50 from concentrate and distilled water.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Good evening folks,

I'm back here again, sooner than anticipated, looking for some advice, technical support, suggestions and the like. As some of you may have seen, I recently started working on replacing most of my A/C system. So far so good with all of that. Today however, I have encountered a new problem. I was on my way back home from Lowe's this afternoon and as I was pulling into my parking space, I noticed a large wet spot on the asphalt where my truck sits (Uh ohhh... ‍). I stopped short of the spot to check it out and sure enough, it was fresh. Peeked under the front of the truck and saw several drips that seemed to favor the passengers side (but that could be a ruse). The fluid was green, so my first thought was coolant. Popped my hood and checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. My truck (97 k1500) never showed any signs of overheating. I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and started looking around. My best guess at this point, is that my water pump has finally given up. It appears to be the original part. There's no way there could be any correlation between the A/C work I've done and the new coolant leak is there? I checked all the hoses, they seem to be ok and I didn't see anything around the thermostat. So I'm still thinking water pump. My question/questions are these...

1. What is the best/easiest/quickest way to identify for certain, the culprit, before I just start throwing money at it?
2. If it does in fact turn out to be the water pump, should I go with an OEM pulley driven replacement?
3. Are there any suggested upgrades (perhaps electric)?
4. Is there any value to upgrading, if so?
5. Are there any other components that I should consider replacing while I'm in there? Or any unforeseen issues or potential roadblocks I should be aware of going into the repair?

And Finally, and the most frightening of my questions, if it turns out that it is in fact NOT my water pump... What is my worst case scenario?? I like to prepare for the worst and then, HOPEFULLY, be pleasantly surprised when things aren't as bad as they could be.

Thank you in advance for your time and any help/suggestions/info you can give me!

Kyle

1. coolant system pressure tester
2. crank driven
3. I do not recommend an electric pump for a street vehicle. Bunches of money with almost no gain.
Maybe a high flow replacement.

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I put a high flow water pump on my wife's Astro. It runs at the thermostat opening point all year round.

If you choose a high flow you MUST use a pressure balanced thermostat.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-330-195
Beware of cheap copies!
I like this gasket;

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4. For a stock vehicle there is little to be gained with a pump upgrade except perhaps peace of mind.
5. Thermostat, Hoses (all) and coolant.

I just put these on Frank;

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-390044 and

Summit Racing SUM-390048 Summit Racing™ Stainless Steel Flexible Hoses | Summit Racing

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The 48 was a bit short to do both hoses but I had extra from a previous kit.

I've had these on my Firebird for over 20 years. Those stainless hoses will outlast your truck's grandchildren!

Use a name brand coolant full strength cut with Drinking/Mineral water (not distilled) to the correct freezing protection for your climate.
0 degrees F or 10 degrees colder than the truck will see. You need some to prevent corrosion and to lubricate the water pump. If your truck lives where it NEVER FREEZES you can use water with 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter or Purple Ice and just water. Beware that mix will have NO protection against freezing!

Flush the system with a radiator cleaner product while the old pump is still on there (Justice Brothers/ JB if possible) follow the instructions.
Open the block drains (one is the knock sensor) and check the stoopid plastic heater hose connector. They corrode and the plastic clip gets brittle and that will ruin your day!

Put a bottle (or 2 see above) of water wetter/ purple ice and if you can find it JB Radiator Cool in the radiator.
top up the radiator with the coolant mixture and you will be good to go.



You can get a replacement stock water pump at any auto parts store any day of the week. Electric? You are waiting for Summit to send you a new one.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I've had a rash of broken OE compression clamps on the lower hose lately.
Pressure test and scour the engine bay for leaks.
Pay attention to the dreaded quick connect fitting in the intake. They're notorious.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Use a name brand coolant full strength cut with Drinking/Mineral water (not distilled)

What's the rationale? I don't believe I've ever heard this.

I always used distilled so as not to introduce minerals that might collect where they don't belong.

These stories mention either distilled or de-mineralized water specifically and, in one, mention it multiple times:

Relearning the Alphabet: Making Sense of the Cooling System Scene
https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/082010_08.pdf

Coolant Confusion: It's Not Easy Being Green ... or Yellow or Orange or ...​

https://www.motor.com//magazine/pdfs/082004_04.pdf

 

[Frank Enstein]

Several radiator manufacturers (Griffin, DeWalt's, Be Cool, and CSF) have told me this.
The idea is that Distilled can leach minerals from the metal in the cooling system. The mineral/drinking water has enough minerals to prevent the leaching without clogging up the works.
The water at my house is way too high in minerals for coolant system use. I use rainwater.

They also recommend the polyethylene glycol (dog safe) antifreeze. It cools the same but is better for the enviorment.

Also water transfers heat much better than antifreeze.

 

[Schurkey]

Absolutely flush the system first. Absolutely remove BOTH block drains to get rid of the flush water. As said, the knock sensor is the block drain plug on the right side.

When it's me, I use the garden hose and a Prestone Flush 'n' Fill kit to flush, then CONCENTRATED anti-freeze (50/50 pre-mix is a ripoff) and distilled water.

Dorman sells a replacement quick-coupler that's ten times as good as the Genuine GM junk. It may be the best product in the entire Dorman line.

DO NOT use an electric water pump. First off, they don't move much coolant. Second off, how are you going to route the serpentine belt without a water pump pulley? How are you going to power the fan?

Remove the cooling fan from the pump with the "special tool" available from the "loaner tool" section of many parts suppliers. I've borrowed the one from the local O'Reillys store a couple of times. For that matter, you could get the cooling system pressure tester there, too.

Worst-case would be that the water pump is fine, the engine core plugs have corroded or the engine castings have cracked. Either one involves major engine work including removal of the engine to access the core plugs.

 

[KCusick81]

Thanks again to all of you for the quick responses and advice! You guys are awesome! So, me being who I am (impulsive, impatient, blah blah), I went ahead and ordered a new AC Delco 251-719 before even testing the system. Got it for a good price, figured if I need it, I've got it. Thinking I'm gonna pick up the Dorman quick connect today and maybe a new heater hose just in case. Now as far as the the quick connect fitting, were it to need replacing and it almost assuredly breaks off, as a pipefitter/industrial mechanic for the past 20+ years my first go to, would be a 1/2" easy-out to remove the broken off threads. Any issues with this method? As far as possible debris getting into the manifold, is it absolutely necessary to remove the manifold to properly clean? Or would that be taken care of with the flush? Also, I've never done a coolant flush before, so a link to a good video would be greatly appreciated. Gonna pick up a pressure tester this evening when I get off. Any suggested brands or would good 'ol harbor freight be good enough for this application? Also, I like to treat my things with the best of the best, whenever possible. Coolant brand suggestions? FYI: I live on the eastern shore of Maryland where we often experience all 4 seasons in a single week! Hahaha. However, we rarely see temperatures south of 20 -30° F, but that is subject to change at any given moment so a formula that can handle just about anything would be ideal. Also, where would I find this special fan removal tool? From what I've seen, a combination wrench and a dead blow or maul seems to be the go to method. I've got a couple cans of Aerokroil that I have used to break bolts that have sat submerged it water for 40 years. Pretty impressive stuff and my go to lubricant. I'm fairly confident it will get the job done. Thoughts? Thanks again, fellas!

 

[Schurkey]

as far as the the quick connect fitting, were it to need replacing and it almost assuredly breaks off, as a pipefitter/industrial mechanic for the past 20+ years my first go to, would be a 1/2" easy-out to remove the broken off threads. Any issues with this method?

The "special tool kit" (specialized "EZ-Out", reamer, pipe thread tap) developed by the aftermarket for this job have been discontinued. However, they're still available as old-stock on eBay and other places, sometimes at advantageous pricing. I got mine on eBay for under $20. Haven't used it yet.
www.ebay.com/itm/184786147747?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

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But you may not need any of that--all depends on how the old fitting screws out. I've been lucky, so far.

As far as possible debris getting into the manifold, is it absolutely necessary to remove the manifold to properly clean? Or would that be taken care of with the flush?

I wouldn't worry about it. If the fitting disintegrates, pick-out what you can, flush the system, don't obsess. There's all sorts of rusty debris in the bottom of the water-jacket already. (If you pull the block drains, and nothing comes out--poke an awl or screwdriver in the hole to break-up the crust of rusted debris that's settled to the bottom of the water jacket.)

Also, I've never done a coolant flush before, so a link to a good video would be greatly appreciated.

Buy the Flush 'n' Fill kit, no video needed. Pull the block drains on both sides, pull the radiator drain, collect all the existing coolant and dispose of in an Environmentally Responsible Manner. Then just follow instructions with the kit. Use better hose clamps than the kit provides.

When it's me, I torque the knock sensor in, using sealant on the threads. Then replace the steel/iron plug on the driver's side with a brass draincock. Big-Blocks and vehicles with no knock sensors use two iron drain plugs, and they both get replaced with brass draincocks.

www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-Flush-Fill-Kit/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Y3M98I8FKKBL

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Gonna pick up a pressure tester this evening when I get off. Any suggested brands or would good 'ol harbor freight be good enough for this application?

I won't set foot in Hazzard Fraught. Their whole business model is to sell bottom-feeder junk with the designs stolen from reputable manufacturers. I have no interest in TSOs--Tool-Shaped Objects.

Go to your favorite parts store, get a pressure tester from their loaner-tool program with a refundable deposit. O'Reillys, for example.

Coolant brand suggestions? FYI: I live on the eastern shore of Maryland where we often experience all 4 seasons in a single week! Hahaha. However, we rarely see temperatures south of 20 -30° F, but that is subject to change at any given moment so a formula that can handle just about anything would be ideal.

My Go-To is Peak Global Lifetime. There's many other decent brands/formulas.

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Buy the concentrate, NOT the "50/50 pre-mix". I cut it with store-bought distilled water, and I make sure to have AT LEAST 50% anti-freeze. I actually shoot for 60%; and I've used up to 70%. It gets cold here. Anti-freeze is also an anti-boil, and a water-pump lubricant, too.

Some folks talk about going lean on the anti-freeze because water does a better job of transferring heat. And that's true. But if the only thing standing between your vehicle and overheating is the anti-freeze concentration, THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG. And besides...some day you'll go skiing or sight-seeing with your In-Laws, or whatever. You'll drive your vehicle to the top of the mountain, or halfway to the Arctic Circle. You'll never consider that it's colder there than where you live. When you're done skiiing or "seeing"...you'll get halfway down the mountain before the cracked block causes you complete engine failure. There you'll be, shaking your fist at the sky, and moaning that half-a-gallon of antifreeze would have saved you thousands of dollars.

Also, where would I find this special fan removal tool? From what I've seen, a combination wrench and a dead blow or maul seems to be the go to method.

A wrench-and-maul works...if you have a big-enough wrench. Most folks don't.

I get the fan-clutch removal kit from the loaner-tool program at O'Reillys.

I've got a couple cans of Aerokroil that I have used to break bolts that have sat submerged it water for 40 years. Pretty impressive stuff and my go to lubricant. I'm fairly confident it will get the job done.

Marinade as you like. I don't expect it to make a bit of difference. The heater fitting is pipe-thread, no penetrant can get in there to do any good, because it's designed to be a liquid-tight seal. And the fan clutch isn't rusted, just tight; and with almost no way to secure the water pump pulley to prevent it from turning with the force applied to the fan clutch nut. Once you crack it loose, it'll spin off with your fingers.

The penetrating oil will leave lovely puddles on the pavement where it uselessly drips off, though.