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97C1500TJ

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Dewalt 20v from my experience and in my opinion are great. Very powerful. I’m a tech at a GM dealership and I use my 20v stuff daily and have not ran in to any problems in over 3 years of daily use. The batteries are also interchangeable with Mac 20v cordless tools. Both MAC and DEWALT are made by the same company.
I must’ve gotten a bad one but my DeWalt sucks. I’m a tech at a Honda dealership. I ended up with an Aircat and love it.
 

Frank Enstein

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Got this a while back.
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Works slicker'n teflon coated eel snot! My cat could make a perfect double flare with this and that idiot likes to play with hawks! Not the sharpest crayon in the box.
 

Schurkey

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I made a couple of 3/16 double-flares today. Needed the brake hydraulic tubes from the rear-axle flex hose out to the wheel cylinders. Bent the tubes a couple days ago, cut to length, flared, installed, and bled today.

Test-drive tomorrow.

I use the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. Comes with the popular dies and cones for double-flare, single-flare, GM fuel tube, and bubble-flare; I bought the 37-degree dies and cone, and the GM transmission-tube die set separately. There's a particular name for the transmission-tube "flare", (it's more of a "barb" than a "flare") but I forget what it's called.

This is the newer version. I got mine years ago.
www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B01NCYKQSN/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1
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"Slicker'n teflon coated eel snot!" Yes, the Mastercool unit, also.
 

stutaeng

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Ok, I'll play. I picked up a cheap Century inverter flux core 120V welder from Marketplace still in the box. My Ironman 210 and Idealarc 250 are not agile enough for mobile jobs on household current.

Built a homemade transmission holding fixture from some scrap metal I had leftover from a home handrail project. I was messing with the settings and did my preferred method to see if weld is good...destructive testing...I promise my welds improved by the time I welded the fixture to the mounting plate, LOL
 

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Schurkey

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Nice job. Be sure to fabricate a LOAD SPREADER on that bolt that screws down to the top of the trans case. I'd hate to see you crack the case there because of the small surface area of the bare end of the bolt.

I had a Century MIG-Flux convertible 120-volt welder for a few years. Never used flux-core, made sure the polarity was set properly, 75/25 Argon/CO2. Traded it for a '66 Toronado with a popped engine and (terminally) rusted "unibody" at the rear leaf springs. The 230-ish volt MIG that replaced it made my welds significantly better.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Not surprising that it broke. The chrome sockets are too hard and brittle for impact use.
I know he has impact sockets but, I'm not sure he has deep well ones. He normally has just about every tool needed, this may be a one time application where he used the chrome one. In the next few days he'll probably buy a set of deep well impact sockets, knowing him :anitoof:
 

someotherguy

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Ya ever learn the impact socket lesson without even using an impact?

When I bought my '96 GMC C3500 dually, getting ready to turn it into a wrecker, I started by removing the receiver hitch. Brand new Craftsman socket on a breaker bar, reefed a tiny bit on one of the bolts and the socket shattered and I nearly beat myself in the face with the end of the breaker bar. Not good.

We're not even talking about rusty fasteners, either.. TX truck, no rust at all.

Richard
 
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