New Starter for 92 K2500, 5.7L?

GoToGuy

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Have you checked with GM parts or ACDelco? Enter find parts an drill down the list or find by VIN number. If you went with some custom starter depending on it's amperage draw then match gauge to draw. The gauge GM built with is what's required. The GM speced 'no load amperage draw by direct drive starter is 45 to 110. The gear reduction , 1 to 3.9, GM specs' call for 125 to 190 amps. Clean your engine area, underside also, it's part of preventative maintenance. Good luck.
 

454cid

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Thanks. The parts I linked are for a 94 K1500, same engine etc but a little newer that they listed PMGR as a option. RA didn't list the PMGR as a option in 92


Calling @Schurkey ? Lol

Search Someotherguy's posts. He's mentioned it a number of times. I beleive Shurkey has actually compared the various options out there, so using the search function to specifically check his posts would be a good thing too.
 

Schurkey

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3. What about the install? It'll be my first time. Easy as un-bolting the old starter and reinstalling the new one in its place? same cable/wiring routing of course.
The PMGR is significantly lighter-weight, therefore easier to lift into place.
I plan to run new cables while i am in there.
"I" would do voltage-drop testing on the main, heavy "battery cables", both + and -. If you have less than 1/2 volt of voltage drop on each cable, (less is better) there's no reason to replace them unless the insulation is cracked/broken, or the terminals are somehow damaged.

If you have one of the little tin head shields on your starter's solenoid, don't throw it away. They're chintzy, but they're fairly effective.
See below.

The factory starter wiring is adequate at best. Put thirty years of wear on your truck and it's insufficient. It's your call. 2 gauge wire ought to be enough - I think the factory wire was 4 gauge.
The 4-gauge COPPER cables are fine, if they're in good condition. Don't get me started on "copper-clad aluminum" (CCA) cable. PMGR starters take less amperage than the in-line field-coil starters.

The parts stores around here like to sell 6-gauge cables, based on lower price. I think this is crazy, especially when winter rolls around.
Unfortunately, the new AC Delco gear reduction starter won't accommodate the factory heat shield. It may be possible to modify it, but I didn't try, I just left if off. Last I knew it was availble through Rockauto, too.
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NOTE: DO NOT try to use a jumper wire between the main battery terminal and the "S" terminal, for use with the "Ford Solenoid" on the fender modification, as shown in the second and third photos. This DOES NOT WORK on a mini-starter. I found this out the hard way. The mini-starter doesn't disengage properly. Leads to grinding of the starter drive and flywheel ring gear teeth.

Anyone have experience going from old style to mini starter and/or encountered the different bolt patterns?
Bolt "patterns" are the same--Big flywheel/flexplate uses diagonal pattern, two long bolts. Small flywheel/flexplate uses "straight across" bolt pattern, one long, one short bolt.

Cram the heat shield in place, wire the PMGR starter just like the original, use the "special" step-knurl bolts. Done.

The GM speced 'no load amperage draw by direct drive starter is 45 to 110.
But "no load" isn't what's important. Loaded amperage draw is what matters, that's how the starter is used. I've seen specs as high as 225 amps on the so-called "High Torque" in-line starter motors and big-block engines. Typically 175--200.

The gear reduction , 1 to 3.9, GM specs' call for 125 to 190 amps.
That's under load. The PMGR starters tend to pull less current than the in-lines.
 
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