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Zar7285

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Hey long time lurker here. Been using the site to help fix some of my trucks many issues. My name is Zach by the way, live in Alaska, have two boys and have recently gotten into the over landing scene. My current project is a 1995 k2500 suburban with 7.4 4l80e and 4:10 combo. I picked it up from auction back in April and have been slowly fixing on it since then. Hoping to find some good info on how to get this thing road worthy and safe again while I'm here.

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HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
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Welcome to the forum, from a Texas Burb owner. You should be able to go just about anywhere in this Burb when you're done with it. (Are they ever really "done " ?)
 

SUBURBAN5

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Very nice burb. Looks like a good solid work horse. If I had a chance to get another suburban that's the combo I want... 454, 4l80e, 410, and 4x4.
 

Old77

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:welcome:
 

Zar7285

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Not sure where else to post this so feel free to move if its the wrong place.

Since I bought the truck, I've replaced nearly all the engine sensors, 02 sensor, driver's door, patched a leaky exhaust at the muffler connection, changed plugs and wires, changed oil, replaced shocks, tie rod ends, and have a bucket of parts that still need to go in but I don't have access to a hydraulic press to do all the bushings and ball joints up front. The truck is pushing 200k miles fyi.

Current issues that I know of are listed below, any assistance is greatly appreciated in advance;

Trucking running rich, mostly at start up, fouling plugs a bit.
There's no catyltic convertor at all, just a Y pipe from the manifolds to the muffler, not sure if that's stock or not.
Rear driver-side power window only moves an inch, not a huge issues.
Power door locks only work on driver's side doors and barn doors in back.
There appears to be an oil leak coming from above the rear of oil pan, mostly saturated around the drain plug but its on tight.
There's another fluid leak up front, in the radiator area. It drips on my garage floor after every drive. No smell to it at all though, thinking it might be refrigerant mixed with compressor oil?
Power steering fluid is still topped off so its not that and my oil has a distinct smell from the dipstick.
I'm thinking my thermostat is stuck open as the temp gauge never gets close to half way, wondering if that is contributing to running rich so much?
Recently my battery was drained over night, left a plug in heated seat cover on, the likely culprit. Removed a bunch of extra wiring from the engine bay that was for some old fog lights and a CB loud speaker. Also installed some new fog lights with a relayed harness, directly to the battery. Now my left turn signal keeps flashing even with the ignition turned off. Had to remove the aftermarket radio to run the wiring, not sure about the wiring job on it, as some wires weren't connected to anything or looked cut. Removing the hazard relay fixes this but then I have no turn signals at all.
My climate control fans only work on max setting.
The heat works but takes forever to get hot.
A/C doesn't work at all, likely a refrigerant leak as I filled it with an entire can of R134a, the compressor clutch tried to kick on, unplugged it, tested it a few days later for pressure and its completely empty.
The steering is kind of loose when turning left, which I've heard is a common thing with these.

That's just everything I've found so far.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Man that's quit a bit of stuff. Well first thing first. Exhaust came with a cat from the factory, being tbi not sure if it was 1 or 2 though. One of the tbi wizards needs to chime In to talk about anything with the fuel mixture and injectors for that 7.4. Sorry mine a vortec 5.7. Interior however I believe are very close to mine so your window can be several factors but process of elimination works best for repairs. Meaning get a test light and test driver door. Then go to the rear door and test the switch. If all passes something pretty easy I did was take apart the door and unscrew the 4 bolts holding the motor, and try cleaning the motor a little. A vid posted by 1Road shows how. I followed what he said and now window works. For your blower. Something easy and cheap is to replace the blower motor switch on the back of the hvac panel. But if that doesn't work then the electrical wizards on here can chime in on diagnosing the electrical. I know it can be a pain trying to find the cause as some people on here have gone through. Goodluck and keep us posted. I'll try to help as much as I can. But I'm limited lol. Mine also 2wd so different set up underneath otherwise I would chime on that one as well
 

SUBURBAN5

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Power door locks can be the actuators. My opinion there kind of crappy. Easy and cheap enough to replace btw. But before replacing. Just test the power to make sure power being called. Otherwise if it's not the actuator then it ls most likely electrical
 
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