New crate motor?

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TommyJ1980

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I would shop around a little. 2900 may be a little high.

With 250k miles also consider what else you may want to replace. Spider injector, any questionable sensors come to mind. Fuel pump and lines would be a good step as well if you have it all apart. Don't think that if you just replace the long block that you will be trouble free. I tend to look at a project as if I am going to take everything apart what else should I replace while I am in there. There have been times where a part I did not replace failed shortly after and I had to take everything apart again. Or a part that "looked good" turned out to be bad and caused issues (knock sensor). A good manual can also show you how to check other components.

As for tools, a good torque wrench, a good service manual, clutch alignment tool if you have a manual trans. An engine leveler is not required but makes the job easier. A small bottle jack for adjusting trans height is handy. Drift punches for lining up holes. Hose clamp pliers if you do not want to drain the cooling system. Crankshaft balancer and power steering pulley pullers. These can be rented from autopart stores. Gasket scraper. Brake parts cleaner (cleaning surfaces before applying gaskets). Fuel line disconnect tools.
Thanks!!
 

TommyJ1980

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Easy/lower risk($) would be to find a used motor. Is rest of your truck worth investing 3k on new motor. Many variables, you know the condition of your truck. What value do you put on your truck right now as it sits?
This is just an example of another option:
Other than the motor, it seems to be in fairly good condition for its age. Straight body, little rust, etc.
 

TommyJ1980

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Agree^^^ if you feel your truck is worth it. And I have no idea TommyJ1980 as to that. It’s tough, but, You got to know when to hold ‘em - know when to fold ‘em. :Rock on: Have you concluded your engine isn’t worth fixing?
No, it was a choice between doing the head gasket or this, and I just got my tax bill today so, I’m gonna go ahead and change the head gasket and go from there. I am definitely going to start chunking away for one of the options listed in this thread though, I’m looking at this as a short term fix. It’s just an old motor is all, and I eventually want a new one that I dont have to worry about anymore.
 

TommyJ1980

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Agree with everything said. In most cases if it's not installed by a licensed shop it nullifies the warranty and the warranties can be fairly bogus.

I wouldn't be so quick to cash out on a new engine just yet without determining the condition of the engine you have. Ie, compression test possibly followed by a leakdown test. Maybe you don't have the tools or skills at this point but I have put quite a few back into service with a dingle ball honed, bearing and re-ring, cam set, oil pump, gasket rebuild. Possibly a set of remanned heads.
Thank you, really appreciate it!
 

TommyJ1980

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Agree with everything said. In most cases if it's not installed by a licensed shop it nullifies the warranty and the warranties can be fairly bogus.

I wouldn't be so quick to cash out on a new engine just yet without determining the condition of the engine you have. Ie, compression test possibly followed by a leakdown test. Maybe you don't have the tools or skills at this point but I have put quite a few back into service with a dingle ball honed, bearing and re-ring, cam set, oil pump, gasket rebuild. Possibly a set of remanned heads.
I actually bought a gauge to check compression the other day along with that scan tool. With it spewing white smoke and a known intake gasket needing to be replaced, do you think I need to even worry about diagnosis too much when I know I’m already going to have to do that much?
 

TreeGeared

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Doing a compression and a leakdown test if you can rent the equipement from a parts store would be helpful. It will tell you if all your cylinders are in bad shape or just a couple. It may help you decide if you want to take the long block and have it machined and rebuilt or if you just should find another long block. But really disassembly and inspection are the best way to determine that.
 

Erik the Awful

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Before you go for a rebuilt one make sure the warranty isn't void by putting it in a 2500 or doing it your self.
Agree with everything said. In most cases if it's not installed by a licensed shop it nullifies the warranty and the warranties can be fairly bogus.
Just FYI, the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act says a manufacturer can't void a warranty just because you do the work yourself. Of course, companies violate the MMWA all the time, and very rarely does someone lawyer up and challenge them.
 

Hipster

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Just FYI, the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act says a manufacturer can't void a warranty just because you do the work yourself. Of course, companies violate the MMWA all the time, and very rarely does someone lawyer up and challenge them.
I tend to agree with you, but bolting the ancillary components on a crate engine, doing the install and first fire can turn into a nightmare for the novice if everything is not correct and ready to go. A bit different than buying a car with a warranty and doing PM on it and I can understand why the crate engine co.'s write these disclaimers. In lawyer world the $3k engine price tag isn't much more than a few letters and phone calls. In a lawsuit scenario doubt you'd get anymore than the purchase price back. Still a no win situation.
 

Erik the Awful

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That's why I said "Just FYI" and not "I recommend". Pick your battles. A company that aggressively fights to escape their warranty is not likely to get my business. This is the number one mark against me replacing my Mustang with another Mustang. Ford dealerships make a Ford warranty worthless, and some Fords make that warranty a necessity.
 
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