New Battery For '97 Tahoe Vortec 350 Suggestions!

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wirlybird

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Say the recommended size is a BCI Group 78 and has 700 cranking amps. Ok, but my battery tray is pretty big.
Hmm... Let's see, measure battery tray, it's xx by xx. Ok go tractor supply, when they had Excide batteries. Hmm.. this rectangle fits and it is 3/4 inch shorter. And it has 1175 cca. Only 10 $ more, sold.
If your locked into the catalog size because there isn't any space that's your only option. But if you have room to spare instead of the OE size you can go big based on how much room you have play with. It is one area you can go big for a piece of mind thing.
Also remember if the size is followed by an " F " as in group 34F, that usually means the terminals are reversed. On opposite sides as you look at your battery from over the radiator.
It used to mean for Ford, they reversed the terminals.
Good luck.
Thank you for the info. It is a pretty tight fit in the Tahoe but I will measure and see if I can gain any size.
 

wirlybird

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I'll have to get back under the hood and refresh my memory on the factory cables going to the positive side terminal to see.
I have one heavy positive cable (not factory) that goes to the top post. I did it this way to try to isolate it a little rather than it being directly connected in with the main factory cables that go to the positive side post. Using the battery as a bit of a buffer.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I did it this way to try to isolate it a little rather than it being directly connected in with the main factory cables that go to the positive side post. Using the battery as a bit of a buffer.
The top and side terminals are directly connected to each other, then it goes in to the battery so, in essence, you're doing it already.
 

AuroraGirl

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Thanks, I need a group 34/78.
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ignore the fume harness visible here (doesnt like the top post or fume vent spots)
But I think northstar 34/78 are still available until the old design sells out then they are replaced by an ugly red/black case and new name. sadly. but if you wanted a good battery that is.


You all make this more complicated than women shoe shopping
 

AuroraGirl

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The last 2 pics here are just showing you how you can make a top post from a GM side post., Grind the impressions and then you can washer it down onto a marine style post(a stud with a wing nut but really as long as you can get flat surfaces is what im talking about
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this is why everyone with side post GM cables should remove the rubber around the side posts even fi it looks clean. they hide the corrosion quite well. same concept for the threads of the post terminal and the depth achieved by the fastener. some are too long and will bottom out, this is a joke to someoen who read that I bet., en serio
 

GoToGuy

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Batteries like anything else needs to be inspected and maintained. And yes lead acid batteries produce an " acidic, toxic, flammable vapor " . Are wearing you wearing approved eye protection when working on batteries? If not your wrong.
The most reliable method to prevent corrosion on the batt' terminals is a dielectric compound, grease or paste, applied to terminals.
As our '88 to 98 year series of trucks an suv' s age and live in more " rust belt and corrosive areas" inspection and occasional maintenance will be more in depth.
I don't see how you improved the battery wire attachments. Two additional connection points that are by design temporary. More exposed metal for corrosion points. Increased electric shock, shorting, burn hazard. Almost everybody has at some time used the battery top as a tray. Ever seen a battery explode? Happens more often than you think.
That top post I hope you have plenty of clearance so somebody's rear doesn't short it, or it's an underfloor placement.
Good luck.
 

Erik the Awful

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Sorry, but side posts are garbage, and there's no defending them. GM created them in hopes that everyone else would want it and they'd get royalties from the patent. Even GM has since abandoned them. The terminals loosen up, they hide corrosion, they can leak out of the sides, and the 5/16" hex is woefully inadequate. Top posts are far more rugged and simple. While it can be argued that he's creating more maintenance requirements by having those exposed terminals, side post defenders have long defended the extra maintenance that side post terminals require. As far as the "safety hazard" of top posts, it's an issue of self discipline. Don't be stupid.
 

GoToGuy

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Ok, I'll bite. If I decided to change to top post here's the plan. 1) cut off the two side attachments. 2) trim back insulation, clean no cancer. 3) obtain new clamp ends, with hole in end for wire 4) decide silver solder or use big 00, 000, squeeze pliers, shrink tube on first. 5) attach new ends,slide down shrink, toast and done.
I used these silver pellets, drop it in hole heat to melting with butane, stick wire in done. Or if you have really big crimp pliers. For certified installation, witness hole visual and two crimps. Clean and easy.
Good luck.
 

Erik the Awful

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Both sound like good ideas. Personally, I prefer crimping on lugs and heat shrinking them to solder. Solder's more work when good enough will do. Factory connections are crimped and can last a lifetime. Some people also claim a soldered joint is more likely to crack the wire, but I haven't seen it.

"Military" bolt-through terminals are my preferred terminals. They're probably half of why I prefer top post. The other half is that top posts don't self-loosen. Those cheapskate terminals that clamp bare wire are garbage. "Molded-on" terminals are better, but can't be cleaned and reused.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6H1LC4V/
 

wirlybird

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I will likely be converting over to top post so I can get the Walmart battery since every other battery option is more expensive and some of the ones that are the closest are less CCA/CA.
Issue is that the factory positive cables on my Tahoe are not long enough to reach sufficiently to the top post after the side terminal is removed.
I'll see what I come up with. Too cold out now to worry about it!
 
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