Never rolled a fender

[509OBS]

The fronts look like no problem. The rears are double wall and look like they will be a problem. What have you guys done to do a complete roll on the rears. It's a 90 SS and although the paint is old I don't want to chip the edge.

 

[BOOT]

Never rolled any myself but herd using a heat gun sometimes saves the paint. Take your time, not sure how a fender roller will work on gmt400 non-round wells.

 

[someotherguy]

Generally you rarely need to roll the rears. Even when I did 20x10 rears on my '94 C2500 and 295's they didn't come close enough to make me worry much.. I did roll them a little just to be sure.

It's a subject that gets kicked around a lot and I hear a lot of people mention heat gun but after all these years I would be very surprised if anyone can roll a fender on a 20-30 year old truck and not have some paint separation.

I've always just used a small sledgehammer...and a careful approach.

Richard

 

[1madmouse]

I know when I first got my 93 Silverado in 96 I had it dropped 2/4 and had 15x8 American racing wheels with 275x60 T/As on it, went through an intersection fast that had a nice big drop and shaved the white letters off both front tires. I haven't done this truck ,but have rolled the lip on a friend's with a hammer and dolly for back up, but had to go really slow and didn't crack or chip the paint. But that is me and I also use a custom pair of Hamlett Seamers I got when I was a Sheetmetal worker.

 

[509OBS]

OK I rolled the front with the Eastwood tool and a heat gun. Only did about a foot across and went real slow. Worked fine with no paint damage. After that I was pretty sure the roller wouldn't cut it on the double wall rear and decided to cut it. Since I was only planning to take off 3/8 to start, I tried a grinding wheel first. Way too much vibration so tried a flap disc and that did the trick. Same deal about 9 inches long by 3/8. Should be good but if need be I have more room on front and back and now a little confidence. If I ever get my trans back I can test drive it ! I'll post some pics when I can.

 

[1madmouse]

I might have to try the flap disc. I know you can get a smooth finish if your careful and it doesn't take a big amount of material off like a grinding wheel will.

 

[bobby v]

the rears wont roll because of the dbl wall, at least imho. On mine i uesd an air saw with a fine metal blade and cut out the lip as far as i could

 

[drewcrew]

the rears wont roll because of the dbl wall, at least imho. On mine i uesd an air saw with a fine metal blade and cut out the lip as far as i could

I rolled the rears on my 1991 rcsb. Just take your time and don't try to do it all at once.

 

[someotherguy]

I rolled the rears on my 1991 rcsb. Just take your time and don't try to do it all at once.

Agreed. It's tougher for sure, but I've done it as well, as mentioned earlier. In most cases you won't need to roll the rears except for really fat tires on wide wheels. The trend these days are rears so wide that you have to narrow the axle anyway, so rolling fenders is kind of academic. If you go to cutting the lip just don't go crazy; you can find plenty of examples of really butchered bedsides where they cut too much and it's just flimsy floppy and warped; hopelessly ruined.

Richard

 

[509OBS]

I used a 40 grit flap disc on the rear and it turned out well. I could still get more room if I need it but for now its a good safety margin on the tire.

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