Negative Camber

[Redchevy11]

So I have a 97 K1500 that already had a 2 in body lift on it when I got it. While I worked in service at a chevy dealership over time I had to have offset bushings put in the passenger side upper control arm for it to align correctly. Couple years later I put torsion keys on it and no problem to get it aligned. But a couple years ago those offset bushings went bad and some other front end parts were worn. So me and my husband replaced upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler and pitman arm, and control arm bushings with offsets. But when putting those new offsets in the control arm the other was worn so bad we didn't have any idea where the offset hole was exactly positioned in the control arm so took a guess after some thinking and put them in where we thought would be best. Since all of that I have been to 2 different shops that just cant get it to align. I didn't have a problem before the offset bushing went bad, and now the passenger side has a lot of negative camber. I have racked my brain for a solution. I recently seen where some do the ball joint flip and get some positive camber out of it. And I have read where the 3/4 ton trucks joints are already flipped from the factory. I just not sure what would be best to get my truck where it will line up again. Please help!

 

[Supercharged111]

What kind of camber are you seeing right now?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Ive done all this with my '88 GMC 1500, and I work as an alignment tech.

Question: how do you not know where the eccentric hole is? It's in the new bushing, not the control arm...
You look at the new bushing, and install it as far away from the ball joint as possible, thus making the UCA "as long as possible"

Flipping the balljoints on a 1500 require: 1. A wheel with a more negative offset (sticks out wider than stock), or
2. a bolt-on wheel spacer, or
3. A much larger diameter wheel.
Because it hits the stock size, stock offset wheel (not the tire) But it is doable.

Next I gotta ask, are the frame pocket knock-outs removed?

Can you post a printout of the alignment results?

 

[Redchevy11]

I will have to find the alignment sheet. I have aftermarket 18in wheels and wheel spacers. I know where the eccentric hole is but When I replaced the bushings they were so worn that when I pulled the arm out everything fell apart so I couldn’t reference where it was positioned before. But Its been a couple years and I can’t remember exactly where we positioned the eccentric hole. Knockouts have been removed.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Ah, so it's not where the bushing is located, but where you position the cam bolts...
If the truck has such negative camber, set the cam bolt to "push" the control arm as far away from the engine as you can, and head to a different alignment shop.

 

[Redchevy11]

Yeah I know that I just dont remember if we positioned the offset hole furthest away from the ball joint like you mentioned earlier. Thats my problem its far out as possible already. But thats why I dont think the offset hole is furthest farthest from the ball joint cause I didnt have alignment issues before but now I do. I thought about pulling the arms out to check the bushings before i take it to get another alignment. I wish they made offset ball joints like they do for the later models. but thats why I was wondering about the ball joint flip for more camber if its far out as possible how it sits without dropping alot more money.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

As long as you have oversize wheels and they dont hit, go ahead and flip 'em. Theres no harm, as the 8 lug trucks come that way from the factory. You'll never know they're flipped, except for the additional clearance gained between the upper arm and the frame droop stops.
The arms travel in an arc. So when the torsion bars are cranked, the lower ball joints and resulting geometry narrow the track width. However the uppers, being shorter, make for much more negative camber.
You're on the right track. Offset bushings give you additional adjustability, and flipping the ball joints keep you from riding on the frame.
The only drawback is the angularity of the CV shafts when the torsion bars are cranked to absolute maximum and wheeled hard. If this is a street truck, you'll be fine.

 

[Redchevy11]

Yeah the bars are pretty much cranked to the max to clear my 35s with spacers, it’s my hunting and farm truck. I like the mud but not near as rough on it like I was when I was younger, more bills and less money to fix it. Looking at the bushings right now I’m taking a good guess that the hole isn’t positioned furthest from the ball joint, it’s close to being furthest. I hadn’t ever heard of the ball joint flip until the other day when researching, then I read somewhere that it helps with camber and wanted some opinions.

 

[Redchevy11]

you can kinda see here how bad it is.

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[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Now that I see the location of the cams and the pics of the tires, I know you're cranked too high. Theres no way to get any more camber as-is unless you decrank the bars or flip. Get to flipping and report back. As a benefit, the truck won't be riding on the frame stops anymore (pic 2)