Negative Camber

[WorkinMan]

I recently put a 2" body lift on my K2500 and I have 285/70/17s on it and had to crank some to get the tires to clear the back of the fenders. The issue I'm having is not being able to correct the negative camber when I go to align it. Does anyone have a solution to this? I don't think it needs to move much, as I cranked just enough that they wouldn't rub while turning. But, I wouldn't mind not wearing out the inside of my tires like I am already seeing.

Searched for offset bushings and ball joints for the upper control arm, but everything I found was for newer stuff. Are there different cams I can buy?

 

[Bamaoffroader]

I did this several years back to my 92 1500 and has issues with negative camber. I ended up installing a Rough Country 3" lift that comes with new upper control arms to compensate for the camber issue, along with increased upper ball joint wear. I spoke with Rough Country a few months back about updating mine to their new style arms and they do sell them separate.

 

[WorkinMan]

I did this several years back to my 92 1500 and has issues with negative camber. I ended up installing a Rough Country 3" lift that comes with new upper control arms to compensate for the camber issue, along with increased upper ball joint wear. I spoke with Rough Country a few months back about updating mine to their new style arms and they do sell them separate.

I wonder if its the same for a 3/4 ton. Either way, I took it to get it aligned again on Monday of this week (installed a couple tie rod ends), and the guys I took it to this time said they had no issue getting the negative camber out of it with the current setup. However, I think that they may have sacrificed on the caster some to make the camber right, it pulls right a bit now. I'm not sure I care though because the camber was wearing the crap out of the inside of the tire and the caster won't hurt them a bit. Plus if its going to pull one way or the other I'd rather it be right.

 

[98_k1500]

It is the same on a 6 lug 3/4 ton, not the same on a 8 lug. I would suggest doing a ball joint flip if you have any more problems out of it. Have your UCA brackets been notched out?

 

[WorkinMan]

It is the same on a 6 lug 3/4 ton, not the same on a 8 lug. I would suggest doing a ball joint flip if you have any more problems out of it. Have your UCA brackets been notched out?

This is an 8 lug....as far as the UCA brackets go, these brackets have a tab on the outer edge that the eccentric cam actually buts up against. So, in my head even if there were knock outs it wouldn't do me any good because they're already as far out as they could go. I could cut the end of that tab off to allow the cam/bolt/bushing to come out further. Either way these guys got the camber fixed on it so I suppose it doesn't matter.

Just out of curiousity though when you're talking about a ball joint flip are you saying flip the ball joints in the control arms? If so that would make this truck set lower as the ball joints go in from top to bottom as it sets, the steering knuckle is on the bottom of both control arms.

 

[98_k1500]

If you have a 8 lug, your ball joints are already in the "flipped" position. The 1/2 tons have the ball joint on top of the upper control arm, you can relocate them to the bottom of the upper arm to get some more positive camber out of it. The stock 8 lug setup is already on the bottom of the upper arm. I would strongly recommend against cutting that part of the bracket, It will NEVER hold an alignment if you do.

 

[WorkinMan]

If you have a 8 lug, your ball joints are already in the "flipped" position. The 1/2 tons have the ball joint on top of the upper control arm, you can relocate them to the bottom of the upper arm to get some more positive camber out of it. The stock 8 lug setup is already on the bottom of the upper arm. I would strongly recommend against cutting that part of the bracket, It will NEVER hold an alignment if you do.

That's what I kinda figured as well about it not holding an alignment.....if I were to cut it off I was planning on creating a new bracket to weld to the existing one to simply extend that tab. That was a last resort.

 

[98_k1500]

If I were to cut it off I was planning on creating a new bracket to weld to the existing one to simply extend that tab.

Thats how you would have to do it. Glad they got it tho.

 

[Bamaoffroader]

I wonder if its the same for a 3/4 ton. Either way, I took it to get it aligned again on Monday of this week (installed a couple tie rod ends), and the guys I took it to this time said they had no issue getting the negative camber out of it with the current setup. However, I think that they may have sacrificed on the caster some to make the camber right, it pulls right a bit now. I'm not sure I care though because the camber was wearing the crap out of the inside of the tire and the caster won't hurt them a bit. Plus if its going to pull one way or the other I'd rather it be right.

Yea I put some IROK ND's on my truck last week and aligned it at work. Now I'm having issues with too much positive camber. Ended up having to crank my torsion bars up with my camber/caster adjustments all the way in to get camber where I wanted it to keep from wearing my new tires. In doing so, my caster is all jacked up now but I can deal with it.

 

[WorkinMan]

Yea I put some IROK ND's on my truck last week and aligned it at work. Now I'm having issues with too much positive camber. Ended up having to crank my torsion bars up with my camber/caster adjustments all the way in to get camber where I wanted it to keep from wearing my new tires. In doing so, my caster is all jacked up now but I can deal with it.

That's kinda how I feel. I'd rather it pull one way a bit and not wear the tires.