Need wiring help with ls swap

[Ls swap c1500]

Does your 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0L engine have cable throttle or drive by wire?
The other thing I checked, was the transmission connector, it is GRAY and the same part # for both 2000 / 2001 Silverado with 13 terminals used.

I will up load info for fuel pump, alternator and VSS soon.

Drive by cable

 

[Ken K]

With info, i will provide some helpful photos. With drive by wire, if the 1992 C1500 has a working cruise control, the vehicle speed signal will have to be shared thru the wire show in your new manual while using the PCM VSS signal output to both cruise & speedometer as the bst I can tell, they work off the 4,000 pulse per mile signal.
Review the info and if desired, send my a PM and I can email them directly to you. I will try my best to answer questions as others on this forum have done this swap before. Note; 92 oil and temp sensors can be used with a 16m X 1.5 for oil and 12m for coolant. These are sold everywhere but get ones with aluminum crush seal. The PCM passes the OEM oil pressure signal thru serial data and don't use it to kill engine or shut off due to loss of pressure. This maybe different on newer vehicles. Tach signal will most likely not need a "Pull-Up" resistor circuit for your dash. Use existing A/C controls and wires for compressor control without getting complicated. The PCM or switch (On some models) at WOT, kills compressor not for power, but for compressor safety at high RPM's from internal damage. If compressor WOT cut was controlled thru old PCM/VCM, use a micro-switch at throttle for cut to compressor. This keeps it simple. Best of luck.
46" of snow so far, slows my project down depending on my low back pain.

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[Ls swap c1500]

With info, i will provide some helpful photos. With drive by wire, if the 1992 C1500 has a working cruise control, the vehicle speed signal will have to be shared thru the wire show in your new manual while using the PCM VSS signal output to both cruise & speedometer as the bst I can tell, they work off the 4,000 pulse per mile signal.
Review the info and if desired, send my a PM and I can email them directly to you. I will try my best to answer questions as others on this forum have done this swap before. Note; 92 oil and temp sensors can be used with a 16m X 1.5 for oil and 12m for coolant. These are sold everywhere but get ones with aluminum crush seal. The PCM passes the OEM oil pressure signal thru serial data and don't use it to kill engine or shut off due to loss of pressure. This maybe different on newer vehicles. Tach signal will most likely not need a "Pull-Up" resistor circuit for your dash. Use existing A/C controls and wires for compressor control without getting complicated. The PCM or switch (On some models) at WOT, kills compressor not for power, but for compressor safety at high RPM's from internal damage. If compressor WOT cut was controlled thru old PCM/VCM, use a micro-switch at throttle for cut to compressor. This keeps it simple. Best of luck.
46" of snow so far, slows my project down depending on my low back pain.

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My truck is as plain jane as possible. No cruise control. No a/c. Lol.

 

[Ls swap c1500]

With info, i will provide some helpful photos. With drive by wire, if the 1992 C1500 has a working cruise control, the vehicle speed signal will have to be shared thru the wire show in your new manual while using the PCM VSS signal output to both cruise & speedometer as the bst I can tell, they work off the 4,000 pulse per mile signal.
Review the info and if desired, send my a PM and I can email them directly to you. I will try my best to answer questions as others on this forum have done this swap before. Note; 92 oil and temp sensors can be used with a 16m X 1.5 for oil and 12m for coolant. These are sold everywhere but get ones with aluminum crush seal. The PCM passes the OEM oil pressure signal thru serial data and don't use it to kill engine or shut off due to loss of pressure. This maybe different on newer vehicles. Tach signal will most likely not need a "Pull-Up" resistor circuit for your dash. Use existing A/C controls and wires for compressor control without getting complicated. The PCM or switch (On some models) at WOT, kills compressor not for power, but for compressor safety at high RPM's from internal damage. If compressor WOT cut was controlled thru old PCM/VCM, use a micro-switch at throttle for cut to compressor. This keeps it simple. Best of luck.
46" of snow so far, slows my project down depending on my low back pain.

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For some reason the pics wont open

 

[Ken K]

Well I understand. After all, starting in the 60's, GM build these trucks like a farm tractor with a cab on it...without the need for the "Orange Triangle" mounted on the back.

 

[ryeguy2006a]

Not sure if you have bolted your motor/trans together yet but if you haven't you should. Some of the early model year 2000 6.0 have a long crank shaft where it bolts to the flywheel. This will not work with the newer LS transmissions, and you will need to run an earlier trans. If you have the aluminum heads you should be good, but if it has the iron heads it has the longer crank.

Also, I saw on the first page where it was recommended to use the 3 wire LS temp sensor and I'm curious how many others are running this? I'm running it now on my 2000 CCSB in a 6.0, but the temp gauge is reading much cooler than it really is. Do I need to re-calibrate the gauge or do most people just run the stock 5.7 temp sender in the LS motor?

 

[Ls swap c1500]

Not sure if you have bolted your motor/trans together yet but if you haven't you should. Some of the early model year 2000 6.0 have a long crank shaft where it bolts to the flywheel. This will not work with the newer LS transmissions, and you will need to run an earlier trans. If you have the aluminum heads you should be good, but if it has the iron heads it has the longer crank.

Also, I saw on the first page where it was recommended to use the 3 wire LS temp sensor and I'm curious how many others are running this? I'm running it now on my 2000 CCSB in a 6.0, but the temp gauge is reading much cooler than it really is. Do I need to re-calibrate the gauge or do most people just run the stock 5.7 temp sender in the LS motor?

Yes my motor and trans are bolted together and sitting in the truck. Just trying to figure out wiring.

 

[Ken K]

Also, I saw on the first page where it was recommended to use the 3 wire LS temp sensor and I'm curious how many others are running this? I'm running it now on my 2000 CCSB in a 6.0, but the temp gauge is reading much cooler than it really is.

I saw that suggestion as well. If you look at the application of this 3 terminal coolant sensor, it is used one year in 1998 "F" body only. As far as accuracy, most gauges have a color ceramic resistor card on the back of the gauge. They are installed during the manufacturing process and during repair to indicate book resistance / current to place the needle straight up middle during testing.

If you remove the cluster, remove the clear plastic off the cluster, use a plastic fork under the needle, rag on face plate, pop off, re-install at new position for correction would be the easiest fix.

 

[ryeguy2006a]

Is that what most people do is adjust the needles? I would think that would throw off low and high sides.

 

[Ken K]

Is that what most people do is adjust the needles? I would think that would throw off low and high sides.

Yes, I would agree that the far end readings would perhaps be incorrect. But without the actual coolant temp reading with an IR gun at different points to compare, I would have no clue. Only those who use this "98" F-Body sensor would know.
Since I do not the sensor for measuring ohms at various temperature exposures, nor having the dash from a Camero / Firebird from 98, it is only a suggestion for a quick fix. The use of a PTC thermistor is high resistance when cold, then drops in ohms as it gets hotter.
Newer GM use the "Stepper Motor" system and that changes everything.

GM eSI service information shows the 3 wire sensor, with 5 volts to cavities B & A (YEL & BRN) is for PCM's coolant temp info for timing, fuel mixture, fans, overheat protection mode and OBD-II. While cavity C (DK GRN) is for the instrument clusters coolant gauge. The problem is the diagnostic flow chart for chasing down a gauge issue for inaccurate or inoperative.

The flow chart using a "J-33431-C" adjustable ohms potentiometer in a box for diagnostics. With the "J" tool attached to ground & terminal A, you adjust the tool from 380 ohms to 55 ohms, with key on, engine off. Watching the gauge register (160 F) and (200 F) respectively, does it read correctly? Yes, replace coolant sensor. Inspect, test and repair circuit wire = yes / no. Replace IPC.

As you may well know, the GMT400 is a paper service manual only. I don't have one to compare it to in the coolant temp IPC chart. Thus, I don't know the correct resistance versus gauge reading.

Yes, I am guilty of dealership diagnostics, using best practices, special tools and the bible...GM's diagnostics flow charts.

My suggestion for re-locating the needle is only "SWAG". Until someone chimes in on their actual experience with this one model year "Dual Purpose" coolant temp sensor, I am just trying to be helpful. Remember, this "F" body uses an "LS" engine.

It is a fault engrained into my brain to use what works after 20+ year in small shops with 3 tons of "Mitchells Manual" on a shelf that was 30 foot long to cover Import / Domestic. The dealer had accurate diagnostic since they built it. They work for me, because a repair that fails is a come-back. You don't feed a family of 6 on come-backs. I am not bragging nor am I perfect and take no offense by the question, which is a good one.
In the age of YouTube and internet resources, like this forum...I can only provide a possible option for a temporary fix. If the gauge is straight up when running normal operating temperatures, verified by an IR reading when the thermostat opens and the upper hose quickly get hot. I would feel reasonably comfortable in driving this vehicle ever day. Cold, who cares. Running temp at normal middle position, good. Too hot and gauge show it, tells me I need to take action...regardless of accuracy.

Side Note: I find the strategies of engineering very interesting. During the course of my job, 50+ employees and myself found ourselves in the test lab. Many line of code are transferred from year to year so as not to re-write everything from scratch each year. Some info was left in the PCM for scan-tool use. An example is failure code suffixes, like P0112 (Intake air temp (IAT) low. They left information the PCM can produce to provide additional information with the code, for field diagnostics. So, P0112-01 = ground. During startup, the PCM is very busy, checking each circuit to sensors that are required to keep emissions in check. This is done thru Voltage drop, resistance, amperage use, operation while running in certain conditions. EGR, EVAP, Misfire detection, transmission slippage, etc.
They drop a new generation engine into a stock older vehicle, epoxy temp sensors everywhere on the engine, then run bundles of hundreds of wires into an interface module, then split into two laptops sitting on a carpet covered board bolted where the passengers seat would be. They run it sitting still, driving and on the dyno as well as wheels off the ground. Then repeat. To create a diagnostic flow chart for repair, they disconnect a sensor or device, and check to see what the PCM does, the codes, history and a screen capture of "PID's" up to 5 of them. They write and re-write each fail code and the diagnostics that goes with each one.

Also, many failures require are back-up program due to the loss of data while a successful start-up. There is a default to "Speed Density Operation" if the MAF signal malfunctions. Over-Heat-Protection result from a simple collection of data from; ECT, MAF, TPS, Gear Range, and customer abuse. The PCM will shut off A/C, kill 1, 4, 6 and 7. Then down shift if allowed, reduce torque via spark timing, turn both fans on high speed. These are just a few examples of strategies used by the PCM, created by engineering that help eliminate engine damage or keep the customer from entering into "Tennis Shoe" mode...walking home, instead of driving!

I feel lucky the last seven plus years of my career in the automotive industry by having the chance to see these things, ask questions and learn behind the scenes activity completing most of my own curiosity. I can only share some of what I know. Now, I can complete even less for myself due to....well, it's my pain problem now.

Sorry to be long. You asked what time it is and I told you how to build a clock!