Need more heat

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98 Nitro

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Since we're talking thermostats...

Personally I'm not a big fan of Stant. I know some people love them but I have had one of them fail less than a year from the install date. I run OE GM/ACDelco (The OEM part number, not the "Professional" series) 195 degree themostats in both of my trucks and they've been flawless. Replaced both of them (factory ones were fine, more of a peace of mind thing) about four or five years back and they're still going strong. They're more expensive at about $14 each but for something that lasts so long I don't mind paying the little bit extra.

Part number for both of my '97s (C1500 4.3L and K1500 Suburban 5.7L) is 12632948.
X2 I like the oem ones too.
 

Hutchinson

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Oh, ok,...it’s the timing, cool. I did it a few years back, so yeah, it may be 30-40 seconds,.... had quite a few beers since then, plus, when u hit 50, things tend to slow down :33:;)
 

DavidAlan

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I would suggest before old man winter takes a toll on you and your frozen,power flush the engine and radiator,just draining the radiator wont remove the contaminates ,you can buy products at the store,or take to like jiffy lube or something like that.to also do the job.
also buy the proper T-stat ,and check make sure your water pump is ok,cause been driving chevy's forever,or there is a concept buy a repair manual and read it,and be as smart as me,what does the radiator look like,if kinda gummed up that will also make you not heat up,if you flush that should do the cheap trick,if not,you always could buy a heating and plug it in.
 

nhyrum

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I would suggest before old man winter takes a toll on you and your frozen,power flush the engine and radiator,just draining the radiator wont remove the contaminates ,you can buy products at the store,or take to like jiffy lube or something like that.to also do the job.
also buy the proper T-stat ,and check make sure your water pump is ok,cause been driving chevy's forever,or there is a concept buy a repair manual and read it,and be as smart as me,what does the radiator look like,if kinda gummed up that will also make you not heat up,if you flush that should do the cheap trick,if not,you always could buy a heating and plug it in.
I did flush it using a radiator flush, multiple times, following the directions on the bottle. And it has a new, oe water pump. I'd think if the radiator was gummed up, I wouldn't get heater hoses that are too hot to hold onto, and a rather hot core as well

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evilunclegrimace

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IF your hoses are to hot to hold and your water pump is pushing fluid it sounds like you are not moving enough air through the core it self. Pull the fan out of the heater box and vacuum out the side of the heater core.
 

Aleks2505

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I am having the exact same issue. Although I don't drive my truck in the winter, it gets pretty cold up here and I am starting to suspect the vent door as someone mentioned. Everything else has been done, new coolant, net thermostat (3 of them, and not the cheap kind), new hoses, coolant level good, I even pressure tested the cooling system for leaks, and all checked out good there. Not losing coolant, brand new heater core. I did notice if I sit in one spot and rev the truck, the heating does get a bit better, but nothing that will roast me front to back like others are saying. I have the manual heater control where you have slide the knobs side to side rather than the vacuum or electrical ones, so I am hoping to get to this over the winter. Not sure what else it could be.
 

kylenautique

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Mine gets super hot. Depending on what year your truck is, the control modules can die. I’d replace that. Pull your fan out and clean it. They get clogged with leaves and pine needles. If your truck is 95 and older make sure your heater control valve is working. 96 and up it’s all controlled inside the truck with servo motors. They aren’t that expensive to replace.
 

nhyrum

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Hmmm not sure what you mean by heater control valve, my 88 doesn't have one it just has blend doors actuated by motors.
Same. Mines a 95, and hoses go from water pump, to heater core, to top rear of intake manifold, with no valve in-between.

I think the suburbans will have something so you can have the heat in the back be separate from the front.

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