Need help with brakes plz!

[Stringer]

All the bleed screws are different I wonder if that makes a difference, at least the head size. I have an 8mm, two 10mm, and a 3/8.

 

[Dropped88]

Bleeder size wont make a difference. Welcome to the aftermarket parts world happens all the time at work

 

[Stringer]

I opened up the master cylinder which is full, then broke open the offending caliper's bleeder and there was no flow. I removed the joint upstream where it meets the hard line and no gravity flow there either.

Sound like a green light for an ebcm? Or proportioning valve? If so, which one and can you provide a link? What do you think?

 

[Stringer]

if i need an ebcm, would i need to just get #2 or the whole assembly?

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[1998_K1500_Sub]

I opened up the master cylinder which is full, then broke open the offending caliper's bleeder and there was no flow. I removed the joint upstream where it meets the hard line and no gravity flow there either.

Sound like a green light for an ebcm? Or proportioning valve? If so, which one and can you provide a link? What do you think?

Check the right-hand side, same as you did the left, just to confirm. I'm quite confident you should have seen bleeding fluid, but you'll have absolute certainty if you check the right side too since it's believed to be acting properly. Just crack the RH bleeder; if you get fluid dribbling there, done.

Back to your question (in bold above): Try breaking the lines further upstream and see when you get flow. As I remember, hardlines go from the MC to the combination valve / ABS (going from memory... you have the combination valve on the ABS, yes?), and then three lines from the ABS to the LF, RF, and rear brakes. See if you get a dribble of fluid there, at the hardline from ABS, and try the RH circuit first because you should certainly (IMHO) see fluid since that circuit seems good.

Keep in mind the fluid won't dribble too fast at the ABS because there's not as much "head" from gravity when that near to the MC. Then again, you could have someone put slight pressure on the brake pedal and do the same test, no gravity required.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

ABS: Can a person remove item #2 in your figure above and manually (a) check the position of and (b) operate the ABS' six valves poking up from item #4?

Judging from the picture, it looks like the solenoids are in item #2, and the valves they actuate are in item #4, so disassembly might offer a means of testing.

See this YouTube, different ABS but similar, disassembled

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Now, whether you can re-assemble the ABS after this "disassembly" is another question, but it appears to be easy

 

[Schurkey]

There WAS a company that rebuilt the EBC310 ABS units. They don't do that any more.

Theoretically, it's a "sealed system" that you're not supposed to open up. They're to be replaced as an assembly...except they're not available any more.

I'm making a point to grab all I can get from the Treasure Yard. So far, the score is "1".

 

[Stringer]

ABS: Can a person remove item #2 in your figure above and manually (a) check the position of and (b) operate the ABS' six valves poking up from item #4?

Judging from the picture, it looks like the solenoids are in item #2, and the valves they actuate are in item #4, so disassembly might offer a means of testing.

See this YouTube, different ABS but similar, disassembled

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Now, whether you can re-assemble the ABS after this "disassembly" is another question, but it appears to be easy

i actually watched this video a couple years ago, bc of the abs light on my other truck. unfortunately it didnt work so i live with the abs light. too cold to crack any lines open today unfortunately.

 

[Stringer]

can anyone confirm what ABS parts are likely needed here? really need help with what parts i should get so this truck might have brakes. Would i just need #2 & 3? Or 4, or more???

would THIS THING work?

if not what proportioning valve do i get?

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[1998_K1500_Sub]

can anyone confirm what ABS parts are likely needed here? really need help with what parts i should get so this truck might have brakes. Would i just need #2 & 3? Or 4, or more???

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IMHO, if the problem is determined to be as we suspect, i.e., the LF isolation valve, then #4 is the “part”. But from what Schurkey stated earlier, sourcing said part may be an exercise.

The eBay item you showed looks promising, and you can swap the combination valve (item #12) from your unit to it if necessary. But I’m not an expert here… I’ve never seen this particular problem myself nor worked on an ABS unit.