Need help with brakes plz!

[Stringer]

double checked, pads are new

 

[97C1500TJ]

I had a pulling problem that actually caused me to wreck when I was a younger driver. Turned out to be collapsed brake lines

 

[arrg]

Swap the bleeder screws from side to side and see if the problem follows. If not, you have a problem upstream from the caliper.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Swap the bleeder screws from side to side and see if the problem follows. If not, you have a problem upstream from the caliper.

Or simply open the master cylinder cap so it can get air, and remove the bleeder screw entirely from the left side... you should get a pretty noticeable flow of brake fluid from the open port simply from gravity, no need to push on the pedal (and you don't have to re-bleed the system if you do this, so it's an easy to-do). It's messy, as fluid will (should) run down the caliper, but it'll be tell-tale.

Be ready to thread the bleeder screw back in once you completed this step.

If you have a firm pedal now, regardless of the operation of the left front caliper, then IMHO you don't have air in the system.

If the left caliper's not operating correctly and/or you're not getting fluid flow at the bleeder, then I first suspect a damaged hose or some issue with the ABS (e.g., the left-front isolation valve is stuck... see attached flow diagram). Or... the caliper's a "bad reman" and there's some very unusual issue within it.

 

[Schurkey]

That brake hose is absolutely installed wrong. Good eye. I missed it until it was pointed out. These hoses are somewhat brutalized, but show the general relationship of the banjo bolt/metal tube section of the hose. ("Up", not "forward", unless 2WD is different from 4WD.)

You must be registered for see images attach

I always assure that the bleeder screw is cleaned-out, using a small drill bit in a pin vice--or vice-grip. I clean the threads, and often apply anti-seize (but that's often useless as the brake fluid tends to wash the anti-seize away.)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[arrg]

That brake hose is absolutely installed wrong.

Nah, it's correct. Here's my driver's side caliper for example.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Nah, it's correct. Here's my driver's side caliper for example.

Interesting how GM routed them differently for the 2x4 vs. 4x4.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Stringer]

does anyone know of an aftermarket or remanufactured EBCM for sale? i cant seem to find a part number or any results.

i really appreciate all the info, im going to further diagnose the brakes tomorrow as advised!

i suspect ebcm to be bad but who knows. is there a part number for a proportioning valve that would drop in i wonder?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

One more thing...

If you try the "remove the bleed screw and allow gravity bleed" test which I mentioned earlier, and you get little or nothing, you might try breaking the connection at the other end of the hose, i.e., where it connects the hardline near the frame, and see if it bleeds like a stuck pig there. It should.

You can also try a similar test at the banjo bolt if you have some reason to do so, but don't do it unless you happen to have some replacement copper washers around. You can't count on re-using the existing copper washers if you loosen that connection; they may not seal on the second use, and you'll have a mess of brake fluid in the wheelwell when you find that they leak.

 

[Stringer]

ok will do! yes ive got a copper washer assortment, torque wrench collection etc! i did just go in there with a flashlight and the brake retaining clip is missing. i applied torque to the area where the upper brake hose fitting meets the hardline (retaining clip area) and got about a quarter turn tightening it before i felt it was tight enough. i wonder if that would make any difference, i did not see any leakage under this connection tho.