NBS Master Cylinder Upgrade

[kennythewelder]

Yeah it's been confusing lol.. I agree gm should of equipt the trucks with the proper set up. But now I'm curious what's the best mod
I was gonna put bigger wheel cylinders in the rear and bigger calipers in the front. But those are still oem style. Now I'm guessing I should leave the stock mc since I have 6 brakes lol

You know, you can spend a lot of money on brake upgrades. I will say this. My 2004 Toyota 4 runner OE brakes will put you through the windshield. It has 4 piston calipers, and big rotors. As for the MC, well the ABS is built in, so nobody make a replacement MC Toyota wants a lot for a MC. My brother took his daughters 4 runner to the dealer to replace the MC. They quoted Him $4500 to replace it. They bought a new Camry. He loves Toyota.

 

[df2x4]

If everyone who's unsatisfied with the brakes on these trucks would just bleed the systems properly (like with a Tech 2 to command the ABS module to stay open) and install some grippy pads and shoes (DOT code FF or better) they'd see there's no need for this MC swap IMO. I have JB5 brakes on my red truck and JB6 on the Suburban, both work great with the stock MC.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

I love internet philosophy, "If you didn't do it just like me you must be wrong." Everyone seems to need herd validation for their choices.

 

[badco]

If everyone who's unsatisfied with the brakes on these trucks would just bleed the systems properly (like with a Tech 2 to command the ABS module to stay open) and install some grippy pads and shoes (DOT code FF or better) they'd see there's no need for this MC swap IMO. I have JB5 brakes on my red truck and JB6 on the Suburban, both work great with the stock MC.

Or just delete the abs. The early abs like my 96 is dangerous and in slick conditions will get you in a accident.
I have awesome brakes on my 96 using stock master cylinder, the power stop cross drilled and slotted rotors and pads for towing, huge drums on my 14bolt dif and the single BEST upgrade for pedal feel and stopping is to throw the stock rubber brake hoses away and use the steel braded teflon hose kit. Hose kit makes a vacuum boosted system feel more like hydraboost

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Or just delete the abs. The early abs like my 96 is dangerous and in slick conditions will get you in a accident.
I have awesome brakes on my 96 using stock master cylinder, the power stop cross drilled and slotted rotors and pads for towing, huge drums on my 14bolt dif and the single BEST upgrade for pedal feel and stopping is to throw the stock rubber brake hoses away and use the steel braded teflon hose kit. Hose kit makes a vacuum boosted system feel more like hydraboost

My 97s ABS works flawlesly....Has helped me avoid a couple of accidents that I would have been in had it not been for the ABS.

Best upgrade for pedal feel and actual stopping power is a hydroboost swap using the hydroboost master cylinder.

 

[twt63]

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I know it’s been gone over thousands of times, but I’m trying to get a clear picture of what I need to do the upgrade. I have a 96 GMC Yukon 2 door. My front brakes were SHOT and yesterday I replaced the rotors and pads with a set from Powerstop (K1990-36). I’m now looking into the master cylinder upgrade and found this one (Dorman M630031 Brake Master Cylinder for Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYTM7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LR8yFbDAG48CV) and was wondering if that’s the correct one for my truck along with the BLF-26C adapter from AutoZone. Any help is appreciated.

Get the one from Little Shop, it includes the line adaptor you need!

 

[98 Nitro]

If everyone who's unsatisfied with the brakes on these trucks would just bleed the systems properly (like with a Tech 2 to command the ABS module to stay open) and install some grippy pads and shoes (DOT code FF or better) they'd see there's no need for this MC swap IMO. I have JB5 brakes on my red truck and JB6 on the Suburban, both work great with the stock MC.

This ^^

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The ABS unit itself has a bleeder that most people fail to bleed.

Also forgot to mention, get the truck on some gravel or sand or a rain slick parking lot or deserted street in a safe area and apply the brakes hard enough to activate the ABS. It will usually self bleed.

 

[bluetahoe]

OK, so I am one of the few, but don't know what a NBS master cylinder is? Somebody please let me know.

I have a 97 Tahoe that's in great shape with 18" tires and lots of upgrades. Don't drive it much--about 5K/year. I have JB6 brakes. The best thing I did to improve stopping power was unlock the ABS and get a power bleed. But, first I had to get the ABS working. To do so I went out on a gravel road and locked up the wheels several times. Eventually the ABS started working again. Then the power bleed and the brakes were awesome again. Or was it the other way around, bleed first then unlock the ABS? I can't remember for sure which was first, not sure it matters. The mechanic said that if you don't get the ABS to activate very much that it quits working properly. I have replaced the MC with direct replacement, replaced booster with direct replacement and upgraded rear shoes and front pads. All helped.

 

[thegawd]

It makes lots of sense. My abs gets worked out every winter in the snow for fun. That is probably one reason why my burbs brakes work just fine. And possibly why the trucks that dont play in the snow may be the ones who's abs system stops working. I dunno but my abs works flawlessly.

Al