NBS Master Cylinder Upgrade

[KingKon]

You must be registered for see images attach

I know it’s been gone over thousands of times, but I’m trying to get a clear picture of what I need to do the upgrade. I have a 96 GMC Yukon 2 door. My front brakes were SHOT and yesterday I replaced the rotors and pads with a set from Powerstop (K1990-36). I’m now looking into the master cylinder upgrade and found this one (Dorman M630031 Brake Master Cylinder for Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYTM7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LR8yFbDAG48CV) and was wondering if that’s the correct one for my truck along with the BLF-26C adapter from AutoZone. Any help is appreciated.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Looks right. I got an ac delco one. Not sure the quality of dorman so becarful. Need some input from some brake wizards. Hopefully they chime in. Did you put stainless lines?

 

[KingKon]

No stainless lines. Should I?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

I would never ever use Dorman for mechanical parts. Trim and inconsequential stuff no problem, but absolutely nothing of mechanical importance.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

No stainless lines. Should I?

You can always add them later if you're not happy with your results.

Getting the air out after a MC replacement can be a PIA. You will likely need to cycle the ABS with a Tech2, or by braking hard on loose ground to activate the ABS, and bleeding. The Motive pressure bleeder might help you out with the NBS MC with the screw on cap.

You didn't mention why you are changing the MC but cycling the ABS with a Tech2 or by setting the ABS off and bleeding might improve your current set up.

The adjustment and condition of the rear brakes makes a big difference to the brake pedal travel and feel. If your emergency/ footbrake is very low it's a good indication the rear brakes need adjusting up, at very least.

 

[east302]

I would never ever use Dorman for mechanical parts. Trim and inconsequential stuff no problem, but absolutely nothing of mechanical importance.

Agreed a billion times over, though you’re a bit more generous than me.

I’ve got a real burr up my a** now over that company, lol. Been burned too many times now.

 

[east302]

The Motive pressure bleeder might help you out with the NBS MC with the screw on cap.

I can vouch for their version when pressure bleeding that style of MC. It makes it so much easier.

 

[Curt]

You must be registered for see images attach

I know it’s been gone over thousands of times, but I’m trying to get a clear picture of what I need to do the upgrade. I have a 96 GMC Yukon 2 door. My front brakes were SHOT and yesterday I replaced the rotors and pads with a set from Powerstop (K1990-36). I’m now looking into the master cylinder upgrade and found this one (Dorman M630031 Brake Master Cylinder for Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYTM7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LR8yFbDAG48CV) and was wondering if that’s the correct one for my truck along with the BLF-26C adapter from AutoZone. Any help is appreciated.

FWIW, when I swapped over to the NBS MC upgrade I went with a Duralast NM3089. Works perfectly. A couple things to note, you will need some clear tubing (I forget the ID of the hose, I'll have to check tomorrow) to bench bleed the master cylinder. The master cylinder comes with the bleeding kit so it saves you money there but does not come with the plastic hose to route the brake fluid back to itself. I tried to bench bleed the MC by plugging the holes but it is very difficult to actuate the piston by hand when doing that method. In my thread (linked below), you'll see I went with the alternative method to bench bleeding. Also, If you take a look in my rear disc thread, one thing people do not mention is how far off the ports are for the brake lines. See here: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/so-y...-02-tips-and-tricks-guide.49226/#post-1097239 . Either be prepared to cut the brake line and move it back, or manipulate the line to fit in the port.

When you replace the master, you will need to follow proper bleeding procedures after, bleeding the brakes from the farthest corner to the closest relative to the master. Before starting that process you must bleed the ABS module. People will say that you will need a GM Tech2 scanner but I used this method and it worked great:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Pretty much what everybody else said.. I would throw in the braided brake lines since your already replacing everything else. But up to you

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Personally I would not use the NBS master cylinder. You lose emergency stopping power. With the larger piston you cannot get as much hydraulic pressure as the stock system Had one on my Express van for about a week and it felt down right dangerous. Hydroboost is the best improvement.