NBS Front Brake Swap for OBS Trucks

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txyaloo

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no rub on mine, but i have aftermarket 18” rims with more offset than stock. it looks like either a bigger wheel or more offset would give additional clearance over your stock rims.

perhaps you could either run a wheel spacer or flip the bolts that go thru the uca.

your brake line looks like toast too. you need to bend that hanger, reroute the hose and check for rubbing.

I can't imagine I'm the first person to try this with stock wheels. I actually prefer them over newer styles. I've ordered a spacer to see how that looks/works. I thought about flipping the bolts. That may be my next step when I have more time to work on it. Flip the bolts, pull one of the back wheels, and see what kind of rub I get.

Brake line is definitely toast. That bracket is bolted to the top of the knuckle. It's the stock NBS bracket. I needed to pull the hose a bit tighter through it and zip tie the hose to the UCA. There really aren't many options for routing with the NBS hoses.
 
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dfarr67

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Whatever size rim you are running (mine is 16) it needs to be Silverado 1999 and up.
 

dfarr67

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On my brake hoses- there is another bracket in addition to the one at the ball joint- stock it bolts to the upper control arm- I clamped it to the upper control arm.

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txyaloo

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Whatever size rim you are running (mine is 16) it needs to be Silverado 1999 and up.

Sounds like this is the answer. I assume the offset on the 99+ 16" wheels is different than on the OBS 16s? In that case, a spacer should work. Really want to keep the stock look.

On my brake hoses- there is another bracket in addition to the one at the ball joint- stock it bolts to the upper control arm- I clamped it to the upper control arm.

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I didn't feel like the line had enough slack to use the upper bracket. I actually had to flip the bracket that attaches to the top of the knuckle upside down putting the line to the outside of the knuckle (which is why I had less slack). If I mounted it like stock, the bracket seemed to hit or wedge in between the UCA and knuckle. It's possible I reamed the upper ball joint taper too deep, but I measured off the stock knuckle and test fit with a BJ multiple times while reaming
 

jdla140

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Sounds like this is the answer. I assume the offset on the 99+ 16" wheels is different than on the OBS 16s? In that case, a spacer should work. Really want to keep the stock look.


I bet stock wheels will fit if you flip the upper ball joint bolts. Stock OBS wheels fit my 2002 Sierra just fine up front, didn't clear calipers in the rear. NBS trucks don't have bolt in ball joints though.
 

camo99z

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PM me if you want the photos, I can email them to you

Hey Coveman, could I get those pictures please?!

I agree, but we think about how many people are on here, slightly cranked, ful crank lowered or stock height guys all in the same mix. flipped tierods fixed any bump steer angle issues ive seen on trucks that shouldnt have been cranked that far. So what i meant to say is this is an apples to oranges comparison. Stock z height this will likely create bumpsteer, cranked guys might be fine, lowered guys this is completely unnecesary. but being cranked or "lifted" that far brings other issues too soooo............

Tyler, I have a 6 inch superlift on my truck. My angles are fairly flat. You think flipping the tierods will create bumpsteer?
 

Goldhawg

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I started going down this path and viewed another thread after drowning in this one (although I did read thru all 24 pages at least once) and I bought the wrong spindles apparently (off of a 2500HD 4WD with 8 lug hubs) and I am trying do do this on a 99 2dr Tahoe 4WD stock height with 6 lug wheels. I've recently upgraded to 2019 18" 6 lug takeoff wheels so I'd like the 13" NNBS rotors and calipers but wanted to make sure I get the right spindles on my next pick and pull run. Apparently you can't swap a 6 lug hub in the 2500 spindles and that's the spindle I thought I needed. So....which spindles work? Will any 4WD spindle/knuckle from 01-06 work? Does this spindle work with my current axles but only have to do some tapping on the dust cover on the back (oh how I wish we had the original pictures that started this thread available!). Also I saw someone on a thread from another site a few years ago that was selling the adapter on the tie rod but that appears dead. Anybody selling these adapters? Do people generally just keep their ball joints in with this swap or is it necessary to buy new ones (or just a good idea while you are doing this)? Appreciate any assist.
 

Coveman

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You want the knuckles, hubs and CV half shafts off a nbs half ton. Spindles are for 2wd.

Now is a good time to refresh bjs, tie rods, pitman and idler, that way you wont need another alignment when they go.

I have the write up with pictures, pm me with your email
 

dfarr67

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Sounds like your making more work for yourself. Pretty straightforward. There is more resources than this thread too.
 

Goldhawg

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You want the knuckles, hubs and CV half shafts off a nbs half ton. Spindles are for 2wd.

Now is a good time to refresh bjs, tie rods, pitman and idler, that way you wont need another alignment when they go.

I have the write up with pictures, pm me with your email

You should have my email via messenger. Thanks!
 
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