NBS Front Brake Swap for OBS Trucks

[Jared Moore]

I just came across this thread and am really considering doing it. I'm using drop spindles on my truck right now so i guess it's safe to say that i can use the nbs drop spindles do accomplish all this?

 

[moremudd]

I used the beltech 2 inch drop spindles for a 2000 k1500 on my 1998 k1500 and reamed the knuckles to fit my ball joints , I also used the 3 inch lowering keys to lower my truck closer to the ride height of a 2 wheel drive , No binding or other problems with the front drive axle shafts have been noticed yet , I use 4 wheel drive on the boat ramps all the time , I also opted for the larger disk brakes and of course had to pay a premium for the calipers with the right brackets for the 2000 z-71 spindle/knuckle application .

 

[Blklgt]

I just swapped from nbs stock spindles with 2" drop keys to Mcgaughys nbs 2" drop spindles and a set of HD keys. Really happy with the stance and it sucked my wheels back in. My belltech sway bar and end links were interfering with the cv axle tho. Also the upper ball joint pocket for the washer and nut had to be ground down so the nut would clear the cv axle boot. It is necessary to cut the remaining threads of the upper BJ stud that protrude past the nut for boot clearance. I am ordering some grade 8 allthread and tubing to extend my end links so they will be clear. All in all it's doable and worth it to get 13" rotors on the truck. Next weekend is hydroboost. I do have a set of reamed stock 03 Tahoe spindles if anyone needs them and a set of 2" drop keys.

 

[96taho]

Rears are stupid easy to convert to disk, as long as you have the square flange axles (like the later 10-bolts and the 14 BSF) the rectangle flange axles can also be done, but would require an adapter of some sort - so far, everyone just swaps the axle for a square flange axle and calls it good. if you want info, or a kite, email me at [email protected] and I'll get you going. as for the 2wd stuff, I just haven't had time. I still have the jy parts, but again, not enough time to mess with them, and I still don't have a 2wd to test it on eitehr way. I have been reaming NBS spindles for 4wd guys, I've sold two sets so far. yes, I sell them, because there are dudes who would rather buy them from someone and not spend the money on a reamer they'll only use once. I don't blame them, except i like having the tool, and the 2 sets basically paid for the tool.

I see this is an old thread but I have a 96 4x4 2-door Tahoe 5.7 vortec and i'm planning on doing this swap,Are you by any chance still around to ream me a pair nbs spindles..? and if so, how much...? my name is ken Huffman in Youngstown,ohio.. 330-565-0845 Thanks for any input you can provide... Or..Since this thread has been going on 4 years now,has anyone found a way to do the stwap without reaming spindle..? I thought someone mentioned, also swapping in the newer CV axles to illiminate the need for the reaming...? another question ...since there's not many options for heavy duty tierods with obs like there is for nbs ,couldn't you put nbs heavy duty tierods on if everything else was swapped up to nbs gmt 800 assembly???

 

[Blklgt]

I see this is an old thread but I have a 96 4x4 2-door Tahoe 5.7 vortec and i'm planning on doing this swap,Are you by any chance still around to ream me a pair nbs spindles..? and if so, how much...? my name is ken Huffman in Youngstown,ohio.. 330-565-0845 Thanks for any input you can provide... Or..Since this thead been going 4 years now,has anyone found a way to do the stop without reamind spindle..? I thought someone mentioned also swapping in the newer CV axles to illuminate the need for the reaming...? another question ...since there's not many options for heavy duty tierods with obs like there is for nbs ,couldn't you put nbs heavy duty tierods on if everything else was swapped up yo gmt 800 assembly???

Not sure on the tie rods but I imagine they would fit because obs tie rods fit in the nbs spindle. Although the length may be different. Newer cv axles are only so you don't have to tap your dust shield down for clearance on the obs axles. You are still going to have to ream the spindles because the obs balljoints are bigger. If you buy the reamer get a 12" drill extension that way you can drill both with a drill. Use lots of cutting oil and go slow.

 

[Ttoyota]

Done! I did not use no stinking reamer. Used a large tapered uni-bit and a die-grinder and measured carefully. I know it is not scientific, but its a truck. Aligned beautifully and good and tight. Incredible stopping power. I think it drives and rides better.
I did not take enough pics, sorry.

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Can you please tell me what tie rods you used for the new spindles? I have 2000 k2500 8600gvw. Its the only thing i have left to do and i cant find yhr pn anywhere

 

[carnutdallas]

Can you please tell me what tie rods you used for the new spindles? I have 2000 k2500 8600gvw. Its the only thing i have left to do and i cant find yhr pn anywhere

So long ago, I cannot remember. Sorry. It may have been the original GMT400


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[Blklgt]

I used the GMT400 tie rods. You just have to rotate the end link 180 degrees.

 

[John Cunningham]

please somebody do a stickey on this mod........I love my truck and hate my brakes!

 

[John Cunningham]

Credit goes to Rocky Thornton:

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If you do this brake swap on your OBS truck you will be amazed at the difference. Your best bet would be to go to the auto salvage yard and buy a pair of steering knuckles complete with hubs, brake rotors, calipers, ABS sensors, etc. I got mine off a 2000 Z-71 which had 12-inch rotors for use with 16-inch wheels. Since I have 17-inch wheels, I bought 13-inch rotors and calipers for a 2006 Z-71 and bolted them on the 2000 knuckles. If you do that, be sure that you get the calipers WITH the mounting brackets and they will fit perfect, Stay with the 2000-style hubs, because the 2006 hubs are different and the ABS leads will not plug into your OBS connectors. The 2000-style brake hoses are much longer than the OBS hoses and will need to be routed differently. The NBS hoses will clip directly onto your frame-mounted brackets, but you will need a brass fitting to adapt your 3/16 steel lines to the hoses that are designed for 1/4 steel lines. The NBS brake hoses have 2 metal brackets crimped onto them for mounting the hoses along the way to the frame. I pried-off the bigger bracket and discarded it. I pried-off the smaller bracket and modified it for reuse. You will see what I am talking about when you see the pictures.

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I ordered a tapered reamer off Ebay for a 2-inch per foot taper and reamed the NBS knuckles with a ratchet & socket until the larger OBS ball joint studs fit perfectly. The tierod stud hole was the same on both, just had to turn the tierod 180-degrees. The hubs were different but the OBS axles fit the NBS hubs perfectly. The ABS wires plugged right in,too. Even the NBS brake hoses fit the OBS brake lines perfect. I went to the NAPA parts store for fresh calipers and rotors and made another huge discovery. The '06-up trucks went to a 13-inch rotor and bigger dual piston calipers that fit right on the '05-back NBS knuckles. The 13-inch setup requires at least 17-inch wheels, as mine barely clear the calipers. The 2010
trucks went to 14-inch rotors that would require 18-inch wheels, but the new 13-inch setup I have now is all the brakes I need. They have already saved my ass a couple of times while towing a trailer behind idiot drivers. I am so happy to have factory engineered readily available big brakes on the front of my Yukon 4x4.

You can buy the reamer off Ebay for $110 total, item no. 200633129977, and do it yourself with a ratchet & socket. Have an OBS upper and lower ball joint handy to check your progress as you ream. When I was reaming the hole for the lower ball joint, I had an old axle shaft handy, too. When I had reamed the lower hole enough for the lower ball joint stud to go thru, I put the lower ball joint in the knuckle and put the axle into the hub to check for clearance between the top of the lower ball joint and the CV joint of the axle shaft. I think I had to ream the hole a little more for clearance, and I may have had to use a flat washer under the ball joint nut so the cotter pin hole would align with the castle nut properly. If your truck is not 4x4, that won't be a problem.

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If your truck is 4x4, a minor modification must be done to the CV joint of the axle shaft. There is a small deflector shield on the CV joint that will contact the back side of the knuckle when the axle shaft is pushed all the way into the hub. That little deflector shield can be tapped-down all the way around so it does not rub on the back of the knuckle. The picture will show what I am describing. With those modifications done to the NBS knuckles and the OBS axle CV joints, you simply remove your OBS steering knuckles & brakes and install the NBS knuckles & brakes. You will have to turn your outer tierod ends 180-degrees to connect to the NBS knuckles. You will have to route the NBS brake hose right by the nut of the upper ball joint and up thru the middle of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket on the frame. You will have to make a small bracket out of flat metal to hold the brake hose where it comes up behind the upper ball joint. Use one of the 4 bolts of the upper ball joint to hold the bracket and form a loop on the other end of the flat metal to wrap around the brake hose. When you have adjusted the position of the hose in the loop, crimp it onto the hose just enough to hold the hose in place. You should make another small bracket out of flat metal to go under the nut of the upper ball joint to hold the brake hose at that location, too. Look at the pictures and you will see how the hose is routed.

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The brake hoses are different for right and left sides and they index to the frame brackets differently, so check to make sure that the hose fits the frame bracket notches for the side you are working on before you get too far along with the hose installations. I mentioned earlier that I pried-off and modified the smaller bracket from the NBS brake hose for reuse...I flattened the bracket and drilled a big hole in it to go under the nut of the upper ball joint to hold the brake hose there. You will see it in the picture. All that is left is to route the ABS wire along the upper control arm to the frame and plug it in, bleed the brakes, install the tires and make sure the brake hoses do not rub on the back side of the tires or wheels when turning both ways, and you're done. Your truck will be updated with bigger, better, factory designed brakes and can be serviced with readily-available parts anytime, anywhere. You will wonder why the factory did not build it that way in the first place. Your truck will now decelerate as good as it accelerates.

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Thanks again Rocky! -Mike