My 89 K1500

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VIKING_MECHANIC

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Today was a nice day to do some work to the 89'. I replaced original(?) spark plug wires with some Taylor 8mm red cables. I haven't permanently decided how I will route the wires yet, not until I get the transmission back from the shop. And just for sh!ts and giggles I installed the Edelbrock air cleaner that I originally bought for my S10 that's just been sitting on a shelf.
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VIKING_MECHANIC

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So it's been a while since I given a update on this truck.

8-26-22
Picked up the transmission and got it installed back into the truck. After everything was reinstalled and got the trans filled with ATF, drove the truck around the block and felt great that the truck was shifting through all four gears.

So I thought. I installed a tach and realized it would only shift into second. When I would try to shift into third, the engine would just sit at 3K. I called the trans shop to explain what's going on and they want me to bring it to them so they can figure out what's going on with it. And check out the wonky shift linkage. And yes I did adjust the tv cable, it will down shift but it will not upshift.

Now before I tow the truck down to them, I need to figure out why the engine is overheating.

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VIKING_MECHANIC

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So the overheating issue....

This past weekend I replaced the waterpump(twice), re-installed a thermostat and flushed out what little coolant was actually in the engine or radiator. Ever since we(my friend and I) go this truck running before it was mine back in March, he had put water in the radiator to keep it "cool" since "I run water in all my stuff and NEVER had an issue". This is also the same guy that put E-85 in the gas tank. So...

When the truck was still at his house, we swapped out the cracked radiator for a used one and I put coolant in this, but there was still about ~40% water in the engine. We used this neighborhood under construction that was about a quarter mile from his house as a "testing route". Before the rad swap and actual coolant, you could barely make it to the houses before the temp gauge would peg at 260. Now you can drive to this neighborhood, through it and get back into his driveway before the gauge starts to crest 220.

So now that it's at my house, I can address this properly. So I got a new waterpump for it(why not only$40) and a bunch of coolant. Good thing I got a new pump because the bearings for shaft on the old pump were junk. Got the new pump installed along with a new stat and went to start the engine only to discover the new pump was leaking at the mounting location.....

Pulled everything back apart to find out on of the mounting gaskets had fell during the install. Bought new gaskets, installed everything again and ran the engine so I could keep an eye on the coolant level and purge the air out.

Engine is still overheating after all of this and I'm sure a vast majority of the water is out of the system. And I am sure they gauge is correct as I used my infrared thermometer, point it at the temp sensor on the side of the engine it would read about 250 while the gauge would read 260.

I don't see any smoke coming from the exhaust nor do I see a obvious leak.

So I'm sure it will need a set of head gaskets or maybe the heads are cracked?

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Erik the Awful

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Park the truck on a hill with the radiator uphill. Fire up the engine with the radiator cap off. Once the thermostat opens - you'll know because the upper hose will be hot - it might burp a few bubbles, but after that you should see coolant circulating under the radiator neck, but it shouldn't be bubbling any more. If it is your block or heads are cracked. By parking uphill and waiting until the thermostat opens you can now top off the coolant and know all the air is bled out of the system.

I recommend this funnel to absolutely everyone who works on cars. It's excellent for bleeding coolant systems and keeps you from spilling coolant everywhere.
www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/
 

VIKING_MECHANIC

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Park the truck on a hill with the radiator uphill. Fire up the engine with the radiator cap off. Once the thermostat opens - you'll know because the upper hose will be hot - it might burp a few bubbles, but after that you should see coolant circulating under the radiator neck, but it shouldn't be bubbling any more. If it is your block or heads are cracked. By parking uphill and waiting until the thermostat opens you can now top off the coolant and know all the air is bled out of the system.

I recommend this funnel to absolutely everyone who works on cars. It's excellent for bleeding coolant systems and keeps you from spilling coolant everywhere.
www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/
I honestly didn't think about this. Good thing my driveway is on an incline lol.

I don't think there is air in the cooling system per se, but I am still convinced that the heads are coming off in the near future.
 

VIKING_MECHANIC

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On Saturday I tried installing a aftermarket temp sensor, but it was leaking coolant, and because it did not come with any sealant nor did I have any, I just put the stock one back in the block for now. I opened the radiator cap and started the engine to let the air bleed out.

I noticed as it was running, that the coolant was swirling at the top of the radiator. Any idea why?
 

VIKING_MECHANIC

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Got the truck to my work over the weekend. Got it on the lift this morning to inspect some stuff especially the brake.

The front rotors had some serious roundout and some groves. But the back was much worse!

The passenger rear left side had NO material left on the shoe and looks like the wheel cylinder had been leaking all over the shoes. Probably part of the reason the pedal go to the floor.

The rear driver's side was kinda better, but that cylinder is also leaking. Looks like I'm rebuilding the drums soon...
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